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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Water/Meth Cooling or not cooling

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Has anyone experienced there water injection not cooling there egt's?



My egt's don't go down when I turn the system on. Matter-o-fact they go up :confused:



I tried a couple of things today. I pulled the plate all the way back (for less power and egt's) and went for a drive. At full throttle with no water I would see 1050° temps at 32psi boost. I then turned the meth on and it looked like my egt's went up about 25° and what little exhaust smoke I had turned a grey color. I then pushed the plate full forward and tried the same thing. Only difference I did not floor it. I took it up to 40 psi boost and held it there and had 1400° on egt's. I then turned the meth on and my boost went to 45 psi and my egt's went to 1450° and again smoke turned from black to grey. Truck also picked up speed, that’s one good thing :) . All this is with wal-mart brand windshield washer fluid that’s rated to 0°. I will try just plain water next time and see what it does.



I have been in contact with Snow for there comments and I am still going through things with them. I though I would also try this post for more comments/suggestions and see if anyone else has had this problem.



I've been using (2) 265 nozzles in the air horn. I can get it to quench if I have the meth come on at too low of boost. Spray pattern looks good from injectors and ramps up with more pressure with more boost. System is set to come on at 28 psi and be full spray at 40 psi boost.
 
Grey smoke sounds right. 0 degree washer fluid should have more water than methanol compared to -25 washer fluid. Definitely try straight water and see what happens. Does the engine sound different? You are making enough boost that i would be surprised if you are using too much and getting detonation. What RPM do you see EGTs surpassing what they should be?
 
There are a few things here!



One if you or anyone else is making EGT's with water/meth your not shooting enough fluid, make sure the pump pressure adjustment is wide open (adjustment screw all the way in without stripping it out).



If your turn on and full pressure setting are that high are you making that much boost? If you are it's too high for your stock turbo. Turn it on at 20-25 and max out by say 30-32 and keep your boost below 35 maybe as high as 40..... but that allot.



Jim
 
MMcCallie,

Yep it definitely sounds different. Rpm's between 2K and red

Jim,

I like your new dyno #'s, nice job!

I do think my little turbo is having a hard time with my power upgrades. I haven't had the thought that it may be limiting the water from reducing the egt's. Good point.

I think I tried it once to come on at 20 but if I remember correctly I got some quenching when I did that. I'll try it again and if I get quench then I'll keep raising the psi in comes on till it stops quenching. I'll try reducing the full water psi to 32 and see how it does. I'll also check to make sure the pump is set to full pressure. I need to recheck my waste gate open pressure also. If it's getting to 45 then its higher than what I had it set at.

I think I need to mod my air intake. I suck that little filter restriction button thing (I forget what's its called, lol) on the air clearer box to the bottom every time I go for a run. That's with a new OEM filter. You think that has something to do with it the egt's not dropping?

Thanks for the comments/suggestions
 
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By reading your sig. , you seem to have alot of power upgrades to still be running the stock turbo and airbox. Maybe it needs to breathe a little more.
 
Tom, as the sound above 2k changes, is that at any boost level, or only once you have reached the initial boost/injection setting? I agree with Jim that you should be able to use your water injection at a much earlier psi.

Is the grey smoke nearer take off or during acceleration? The smoke should be present at lower boost levels, cleaning up as you accelerate harder. Otherwise, i would think you are using too much water and would have problems in the lower portion of acceleration.

You should be able to back off on the screw so that very little water pressure is being applied and lower the initial and full injection psi levels. See what that does. Then, as you tighten the screw down like Jim said, you will be using more water, and will thus have to raise where you inject in the boost range.

You should check for a boost leak since it isn't cooling like it should. Might also try capping off one of your injectors and seeing what that does. Even with a stock turbo and lots of fuel, the water should be helping to cool, not raising EGTs. Sounds like your pump is working but you can check it by disconnecting a hose and letting it squirt out over a fender or your hood to make sure it is sending as much as it should.
 
Just noticed in my first post I said (2) 265 injectors. I ment (2) 625ml injectors.

TRAMPLINEMAN,

I agree. I need to upgrade my turbo and air box. Its on the to do list. ;) My wallet is not being helpful. :rolleyes:

MMcCallie,

I have already checked for boost leaks. Also have checked the spray patter of the injectors. Water level goes down fast. Even tried one of the small injectors (375) with one 625ml injector. Less sound difference and no change in egt's with that setup than with the (2) 265's. Sound changes when injection starts.

It smokes good at low boost. I'm still working on my afc adjustments. But once the boost comes on its just a light haze of black smoke. Then when I turn the water on the haze turns more grey in color.

I have not had a chance to mess with it today. I've been working on a leaky rear axle seal. which also intails a brake job. Turns out my rims ('01 Dodge 2500 aluminum) will not fit over the new brake drums #@$%! . The new drums are 1/8" bigger in diameter than the old drums. Always something.
 
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there is a lip on the inside of the alloy wheels you can grind down. I put the truck on jackstands in 1st gear, with the rim installed backwards on the axle a few lugnuts holding it on and ground it while it was spinning. Fit fine after that. .

Jim
 
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