Water/Meth - Variable Controller or Hobbs Switch

[Cooker]

I took advantage of the most recent group purchase on the Snow Performance Boost Cooler. I would like to thank those who took the time to coordinate this GP.



I am having a problem deciding on which method of controlling the injection I would like to use. The variable controller seems nice because of the adjustability and the fact that is gives the option to fine tune the system a little more but I am not certain this would benefit me in how I plan to utilize this kit.



I plan on running with the Boost Cooler off all the time except when I know I am going to be enjoying the power of the truck I would think of it as an additional valet switch having the extra power available at the flick of a switch.



One question is, I understand when the Hobbs activates the Boost Cooler there is a 4-5psi jump in boost, is the increase in power and the jump in psi subtle? Obviously I think the variable controller would be more subtle than the full on activation by the Hobbs switch, but other than that I don't see how I would benefit from the added midrage that the variable controller would give me considering how I plan to run with the kit off the majority of the time and use it primarily for WOT runs. I would just rather have a smooth increase in power vs. a jolting one.



Your comments are much appreciated.



Thanks,

Ryan

 

[csevers]

I can tell ya the way mine works... I have a hobbs switch controling it and it kicks in at 12 psi. It makes the sound of engine change and then you can feel boost climb. It is not aggresive at all. I have big nozzels and have to be accellerating or WOT hooked to a sled for the water not to over come the flame. With moderate throttle and the water on I can push enough water to put the fire out + white smoke , knock... . I only use the water on the street to tune set point or volume of water. The system I have (not snow) works the way I wanted it to for sled pulling and can use it for towing with moderation.



Craig

 

[Sticks]

The Hobbs switch is great for WOT runs, but not so good for towing. Know what you are going to be using the system for and tune for that.



I got mine for towing, but have yet to have time or money to tow anything, or head into the mountains to pull some grades (d@mn honey do list)



I have the stage one kit with a stage two variable (the stage one just kicked on too soon for anything but WOT) and I can still quench the combustion holding 20 psi (the first "on" point). Time to drop down to a 375ml/625ml combo again.

 

[Cooker]

Thanks for the suggestions. I am leaning toward the Hobbs right now. From a cost standpoint and also given my intended use I do not think I will benefit from the adjustability of the variable controller.



As long as when the hobbs activates the injection it is a relatively smooth increase in power I think it will suit me just fine.



Any other comments?

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Mine is a long story but if I had it to do all over again I would go with the controller... ... just like the word control... ... put it were you want it.



So lets say you want x amount of fluid for a WOT run but you want x amount for towing, set the low boost for towing and turn the high boost beyond your capable total boost..... Volla, you now have the best of both worlds.



Case in point, you have a max boost of 40 psi fuel only, set the turn on point at 25(or whatever) and max above 40 and it will never go to full flow while towing.



Now we are on the street, set turn on at 25 and max at 35 so that at max boost the pump is at full pressure (which you can regulate) Get the point! Make the system work for you, not you having to work the system.



Jim

 

[Amianthus]

I have a setup similar to csevers'. I like the hobbs switch and have it set at 30 psi. I don't need it for towing as my EGT's are never above 1200. Of course, I don't tow with the fuel enhacement on. I only use the water for higher power runs. I also have my LP tied into the same switch. My highest EGT's with both under full fueling have been 1440. Now if I can just get my wastegate to behave, I should be able to get it to somewhere around 1350.

That's just how my setup works.

 

[Woodenhead]

I have the older variable controller which has a max low point (pump turns on) of 8-10 psi and a high point (max pump pressure) of 20 psi (I think).



I'm still scratching my head over how this one works. The pressure switch is on the pump so if you set the pressure switch at 100 psi the switch just keeps turning the pump on and off to keep the pressure at around 100psi.



The variable controller must control the voltage going to the pump (I'm guessing here) so wouldn't the pump still go to 100 psi like before but just with lower voltage so therefore turning slower?



I seems to work fine but I'm not quite sure how .





Mike

 

[mbsnow]

Woodenhead,

The Variable Controller varies the qty injected by giving the pump a 12 V square wave of varying duty cycle based on boost. The onset setting is where the controller starts giving a 50% duty cycle 12V square wave which equates to approx. 55% of full pump pressure. If your pump is set at 140psi, it will start at 55% of this and ramp-up as boost increases to 100% duty cycle at the "full "setting on the controller - which will equal 140psi. 77psi is ample for atomization as on a 30psig boost application, injection pressure will still be 47psi - the nozzles are designed to atomize well at 40psi.



Just got back from the dyno with my '04. Results were good:

before: ( with edge box): 379HP/ 779lb ft

after water/ methanol: 486HP/ 980 lb ft. ( + 107 HP and 201 lb ft)

details to follow in an upcoming TDR article.

Thanks,

Matt

Snow Performance

 

[Woodenhead]

Matt,



Thanks for the explanation on the variable boost controller. I've been scratching my head about how it works since day one. When I bought my setup the heavy duty variable controller was still in the works. What benefits will I have with the new heavier one over the one I have now?



Thanks,

Mike

 

[aharrow]

water/meth

I have a question has anyone ever tried a button like nitrous using a 12volt solenoid to just hit when you need it for drag racing can you dead head the pump without hurting it so the pump would be armed with a switch then push the button to activate the solenoid to inject the water just a thought Aaron

 

[Sticks]

Re: water/meth

Originally posted by aharrow

I have a question has anyone ever tried a button like nitrous using a 12volt solenoid to just hit when you need it for drag racing can you dead head the pump without hurting it so the pump would be armed with a switch then push the button to activate the solenoid to inject the water just a thought Aaron

Doable, but if you get a pressure switch with the system, you may as well use it.



I suppose the above application would be OK for an auto, but with a manual, that is one more thing to have to do every time you shift, otherwise you will flood the engine.



Matt snow - WOW those are some impressive numbers for an 03. All you have is the Edge EZ and W/I? Is that corrected at the flywheel, or to the ground?



Glad to see you are still around!

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Dang Matt, those are real good numbers!



Jim