jetenginedoctor
I understand that you have pretty good skills when it comes to operating a dyno, But...
YOU need to educate yourself before you give advice or criticize anyone, especially Jim about W/M injection. It is obvious that you know NOTHING about W/M injection when you say
But if you're fogging the compressor inlet, you've got to be careful not to allow water to form drops or streams along the inlet tube, or you'll damage the compressor face by water impingement. There is some science to all of this, and there is only so much to be gained by it. If you're in a humid area, it's not going to work as good as if you're in a very dry area. If there's not much spread between dry and wet bulb temperatures, it's not going do do anything to benefit power production.
NOBODY with a brain fogs anything at compressor wheel but LPG. W/M is always injected after the intercooler/before the intake.
The main purpose of water injection is to cool the air after it has been cooled (density increased) by the air to air intercooler. And yes W/M DOES increase the density further. Most report a 2-4 psi gain in boost with W/M.
The power increase from W/M injection comes from the methanol that is injected with the water. Typically, the more meth the more power (never run more than 50%), depending on how much fuel your running. If you can't burn most of the fuel injected how will the methanol ( more fuel) help much?
Yes, nitrous will make bigger HP gains in a short term situation like drag racing or dyno runs if you have an excess amount of fuel. But some or most truck owners tow which is where water injection and some methonal helps a lot because it allows the use of all the fuel with lower EGTs. From my experience propane only benifits trucks with a limited amount of fuel, typically Fords and Chevys, as cummins injection pumps are not fuel limited (most of the time).
To my recollection (correct me if I'm wrong JF) Jim was running a home built W/M system that worked O. K. Then he BOUGHT a snow performance system because it worked better than what he had.
Also from my experience, as long as you're not injecting enough water to put the fire out and make the engine miss, it WILL make more power.
Sticks gives some real world dyno results that shows 5 hp on strait water and 64hp on 50/50 meth/H20 on a 24v. 64 usable HP for less than $500 seems like a good HP/$ ratio to me.
See this thread for dyno graphs
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112539&highlight=Water+Methanol
WaynesWorld-a search will turn up almost all the info you can stand on this subject. Also please take my advise, run no more that a 50/50 mix if you buy a W/M system. I run 50/50 for all out racing and 70/30 for towing in the winter(so it doesn't freeze). Straight water is good for me in the summer. 70/30 gives the best HP for the buck IMO. Look at the dyno graphs and you will see 50/50 only gives another 10 HP. More than 50/50 can increase the timing and cylinder pressure enough to cause major engine damage so I would stay away. Also I wouldn't run any methonal if your near the limits of your head gasket. Straight water is great if you have high EGTs (from your sig I would say you have some probs if you tow much) and is very much worth the money if you want to use all the fuel you have.
jetenginedoctor
Please do some reasearch before you discount anything Jim fulmer says. He has been here a lot longer than three months and has helped a lot of lesser informed people. You sound like you're fresh off a GM/Ford site and we don't put up with the typical B. S. distribution that occurs on those sites.