Just got back from a 1500 mile road trip and avoiding the recent Texas storms last week. It was still pouring rain as I was sitting in my driveway. I noticed the RPMs rev up to 1000 and sit there. I thought that one of the computers had gotten wet. High revs continued the next day, but only after the truck was warm. That afternoon I noticed the engine temp was up to about 220*, and by the time I pulled it over it was close to danger. AAA towed the back to my driveway. I called the dealer where I bought the truck and got a big, S%#^-eatin' grin across my face as he told me that the water pump is covered under the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. I would have bet money the water pump was considered a consumable, like lamps and belts. I'm still smiling.
The only downside is that I was $81 out of the free-tow radius of 13 miles. And even though the radiator is probably dry (the fill bottle is), I'm hoping to gain some goodwill from the dealer by paying the $125 for a radiator flush and fill. I'm guessing that all it needed was a "fill", but what the heck. A clean radiator is a happy radiator. I also figured that since the truck has 95K on the clock I'll have them replace the serpentine belt and throw the original in the bed as a road spare, since there won't be any labor charge on that. All in all it will be just over $400 for the covered warranty repair. With only 5K left on the warranty, this is most likely the last warranty repair. Then I get to see what new tools I need to buy.
Can anyone think of anything critical that is related to a water pump repair that I should have checked while it is in the shop? I've generally kept a close eye on this truck, and have just now noticed the first crusties on the batteries. In fact, this is the only engine-related problem I have had.
And for what it's worth, I averaged 21MPG over the span of this trip, with 2000lbs in the bed on the outbound side. Kept it under 2000RPM whenever possible. It's interesting, but I haven't noticed a drop in mileage when hauling large loads in the bed. I've hauled at least a ton in the bed several times and I haven't noticed any difference than when running empty at the same speed. But the wind resistance of the trailer, empty or not has a big effect on my fuel economy.
The only downside is that I was $81 out of the free-tow radius of 13 miles. And even though the radiator is probably dry (the fill bottle is), I'm hoping to gain some goodwill from the dealer by paying the $125 for a radiator flush and fill. I'm guessing that all it needed was a "fill", but what the heck. A clean radiator is a happy radiator. I also figured that since the truck has 95K on the clock I'll have them replace the serpentine belt and throw the original in the bed as a road spare, since there won't be any labor charge on that. All in all it will be just over $400 for the covered warranty repair. With only 5K left on the warranty, this is most likely the last warranty repair. Then I get to see what new tools I need to buy.
Can anyone think of anything critical that is related to a water pump repair that I should have checked while it is in the shop? I've generally kept a close eye on this truck, and have just now noticed the first crusties on the batteries. In fact, this is the only engine-related problem I have had.
And for what it's worth, I averaged 21MPG over the span of this trip, with 2000lbs in the bed on the outbound side. Kept it under 2000RPM whenever possible. It's interesting, but I haven't noticed a drop in mileage when hauling large loads in the bed. I've hauled at least a ton in the bed several times and I haven't noticed any difference than when running empty at the same speed. But the wind resistance of the trailer, empty or not has a big effect on my fuel economy.