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Water temp climbing

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This can't be right!

anti lock light again

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I just got back less than 24 hours ago from a trip to Wisconsin, towing a big trailer. Our gross weight going was 22K, less on our way back which meant a few hills pulled in 2nd gear - specifically, the continental divide near Butte, MT, to name one.



While the weather was below 75 degrees, the water temps would climb a little above the "normal" range on the gauge. But on the way back, I hit 90's for the weather. Just running on the flat or slight grades, the gauge would swing past the upper end of "normal" pretty quick.



I'm sure I have a few bugs blocking things, but it's not bad. Further, I had the radiator out before I left, had it flushed, etc. I didn't lose any water, the burp tank didn't rise...



So just how hot is "hot" and is that normal at all? Those of you with 200+ hp at the wheels... . Can you pull extended grades in lower gears at WOT without seeming to overheat?
 
When I moved and was hauling 18,000lbs gross I had similar indications. I have an Autometer water temp gauge and was surprised to find that when the factory needle came to the second hash mark (of the 4 hash marks within the 'sweep'), the temp was not bad at all. I have noticed that the second hash mark on my rig indicates right around 170-190*, and when it was at 220* (after the left turn at Albuquerque) the needle was about 1/8"- 1/4" past the second sweep mark - not bad at all. When I'm empty the rig will be hard pressed to go over 160*, and the transmission stays right with it. On the worst pulling in the trip the engine was at 225*, the transmission at about 235*, the boost at about 10 psi, and the pyro at 1200* - middle of the desert, haulin' a$$, overdrive engaged at about 65mph, and the pyro was what I watched most, and 1200* was where I set my 'max'. No doubt - gauges rock. Without 'em my nervous system gets nervous...

- S
 
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Mark, I was having the same type problem Had the radiator cleaned, that didn't help. Replace the thermostat I put in last year, that didn't seem to help. I went ahead and replaced the fan clutch and that seemed to fix the problem. The old clutch spring seemed to be broken when I took it out of the truck.



When empty, the old clutch pulled enough air to keep the engine cool. I went up to Washington a few weeks back pulling a flatbed with a little weight on it, was only around 13,000 pounds total for the whole rig so was not anywhere near as heavy as you were but the temps stayed about midrange when pulling a long hill. This was with the new clutch.
 
I thought about that myself, but the fan OBVIOUSLY kicked in... in fact, it was decidely "in" just about all the time until a longer downhill run, when suddenly the noise level would fall dramatically when it kicked out.



You could hear it come in and go out, and rolling down the windows, you could hear the fan scream, especially when pulling a grade and in a lower gear with the rpm up.
 
Hi Mark



I've got to go along with "SamsRams" although I run a Horton fan. When I installed my AutoMeter temp gauge - right in the thermostat housing - the AutoMeter temp gauge never goes over 180 even at 95 degrees, A/C on, 70 mph pulling about 10,000 lbs. If I watch my factory gauge it will climb near the second of the two center hash marks, then swing down below the lower hash mark. EGTs seem to max out at 1100 degrees.



I still think that all things being equal you need to look at how much HP/Tq. you have available to you and how much of that you need to move and keep a load moving.



I think if you add an coolant temp gauge you will find your truck is not running all that hot.



Bob
 
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