weatherstrip

[Don in Missouri]

I got new weatherstrip for my '84 crew cab. The new stuff goes on very nice. It has a channel that slips on over the metal rib in the door opening and clings with no glue.



The old weatherstrip had a less rigid channel and was glued in place.



I've been slamming my door for about a week. I mean, you've really got to slam it hard to shut all the way. I'm wondering how long it will take for the new weatherstrip to wear in? Or if there is something else I should be doing to make the doors close nicely?

 

[Don in Missouri]

I got JC Whitney seals. I thought they were a good deal at about $20 per door.

 

[cerberusiam]

You probably need to reset the door latch post and adjust it out. Usually they get adjusted in to take up the slack as the seals compresses then they are too tight when new seals are put in. You should be able to close the door with just firm pressure and no slamming. Given the door is straight and adjusted correctly it will seal. A lot will depend on the condition of the door hinges and whether the door has been tweaked.

 

[tugboatphil]

Well I finally broke down and got the set of "squeegee" strips that are on the window. Mine had completely disappeared from having my arm on the door all the time. The window was rattling and air was always freezing my arm in the winter. They were $35 a piece at the dealer #@$%!



After doing my last road trip with the mercury at 8 degrees, I finally quit complaining about the price. It was great to not have my arm frostbitten after a couple of days driving.



As to the door weatherstrip, I have always wondered if I could feed a small elastic cord through the inside of the old one. I think it would "inflate" it, so to speak. Anyone ever tried that? Did I mention that I'm a cheapskate??

 

[Lock93]

Some caulking injected into the seals works for the cheap fix. In college, a buddy of mine had a Z car with leaking t-tops. Dealer said to try that first before springing for new seals. It worked for him...