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Weight distributating(sp?) hitch

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Hey Y'all;
I have a problem #ad
. I want to lift my 2000 2500 4X4 about 4" and run some 35" tires, unfortunatly, I also need a weight dist. hitch. Does anyone know of a hitch that has a drop or is adjustable? It needs to be able to pull 10000 lbs.
Thanks guys, Big Ugly

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Y2K 2500, 4X4, Auto, Quad Cab, SWB, 4. 10, Black. Yea, though I drive through the valley of Fords, I shall fear no PowerStroke, For I... am Rammin' with a Cummins.
 
EZ Lift makes a longer drop hitch,but it may not be enough. I bought one for my 4x4 with the stock height. I still ended up flipping the axles on my trailer. I was then able to go back to the standard drop hitch. Id do some serious measuring plus think about having one custom made. One thing to think about is the flexing that will take place with a hitch that is too long.

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1999 2500 Cummins w/4spd auto,Quad Cab,SWB,4x4,Flame red ,all options less leather and radio controls on steering wheel,OEM color matched runningboards,DeeZee bedrails painted black,Power Vision Mirrors,OEM ventshades,Oem sill covers,OEM underrail bedliner
 
Big Ugly,
I have been towing with 35's for about 80000 miles now. The Eazy Lift with adjust far down enough. I have a 2" trailmaster lift with BFG's. The hitch will adjust far down enough. Play with it a little. It'll work just fine.



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96 Long bed EC, Banks Twin Ram, BD TC, BD EB, BD VB, Mag Hytec Pans, Warn 8000# winch, TJM Bull Bar, Speedliner, Katzkin Leather kit, K&N Filter, Trailmaster 2" Lift, 35BFG ATKO's, Kodiak Sidewinder Steps, Reflexion Cowl Hood, Autometer Guages, Horton Clutch Fan, PIAA Superwhites, Optima Red Tops, BD Pressureloc, BD Torquloc and Espar coming Soon.
 
Wade,are the 4x4 2500s taller than the 2xs?If they are that may cause a problem. I know that trailer height varies from model to model also. Just more things to think about. LOL

[This message has been edited by Michael Brolin (edited 02-01-2000). ]
 
for max stability in long-drop hitching, you might consider a modified 3-point hitch, similar to what a farm-tractor uses, but, of course, not identical

picture an A-frame, attached to some angle-iron bracketry that is BOLTED to the frame, up near the spare-tire area, (use pre-existing bolt holes to mount your brackets, and fasten w/grade-8 hardware)

the "legs" of the A need frame attachment, and the apex of the A is to attach, by a pin-joint, to the back of the drop, opposite from the ball-mount portion of the tongue---
for easy adjustability, make it modular--

1. use 2 pieces of 1" galvanized pipe for the struts
2. use 7/8" allthread and 6 matching nuts for length adjustment (2 nuts to be welded solidly to end of struts, and then the allthread screwed into the end thereof)(save the strut-threading for later)
(2 nuts to be welded direct to allthread to make 2 really big bolts, and 2 to be used as jam-nut next to bracketry)

make your frame-bolted bracketry, and poke the big allthread thru a 1" washered hole in your bracketry---nut them loosely with the 2 unwelded nuts ---now you have a really large bolt, to be attached to a large strut, hanging loosely in your bracket

for the near-ball (lower) end, get a short (2-4") piece of the same drawbar stock that your drop is made of.

bore an 11/16" hole thru it, in one press, slowly with lots of cutting oil. this will accomodate a 5/8 hardened pin like what you already use w/ the rec'r hitch

weld the piece of drawbar to the back of your drop, at approximately the same level as the ball, so that the open end will point toward the front of your truck, probably aimed right toward your axle-pumpkin.

now, bore another 11/16 hole into the other end of the large piece

take the 2 struts, and a couple of short pieces of angle-iron, weld the angle-irons to the ends of the struts in such a manner as to have flat inserts to poke into the piece of drawbar, and drill them thru, also, so that a standard 5/8"hitch-pin will hold them.

once all this fab-work is done, simply start the threads of your big bolts into the strut ends, run them up until they have shortened enough to pin the other ends into your box.

now, tighten whole ass'y with a big wrench, and hitch up. if you want some flex, simply back the jam-nut down a turn or two, and wrap some baling wire around the bolt-threads to prevent it from spinning down too far. ---- your post caught my eye, because i call my garage "bigugly engineering"--happy dragging--rich
 
Michael,
The 4x's are a bit taller that the 2 wheel drive for sure. The Eaz Lift, (just looked at it today) can be adjustable for lower trucks or higher trucks, taking the variations in a trailer somewhat out of the equations.

rich m - too much free time man. Listen to the radio in that big truck when your driving, your mind is smokin more than truck.

LOL

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96 Long bed EC, Banks Twin Ram, BD TC, BD EB, BD VB, Mag Hytec Pans, Warn 8000# winch, TJM Bull Bar, Speedliner, Katzkin Leather kit, K&N Filter, Trailmaster 2" Lift, 35BFG ATKO's, Kodiak Sidewinder Steps, Reflexion Cowl Hood, Autometer Guages, Horton Clutch Fan, PIAA Superwhites, Optima Red Tops, BD Pressureloc, BD Torquloc and Espar coming Soon.
 
howdy! wade---my daily commute happens at an hour (4-ish am) when "i gots de who' road to mahseff" and don't have to keep so much eye on the other drivers, so i fantasize about having the free time to fondle my arc-welder, and turn scrap-heap goodies into real-world goodies---oooohhhhh, the very thought of the upper-body workout my blacksmith hammer gives me, and the sudden thrill that happens when a piece of weld-spatter hits my scalp #ad
or, even more satisfying is when you get a permanent burn-scar to remind you of a project gone well #ad


----rich, president,janitor, and "all points in between" of Bigugly engineering, maker of kitchen pot racks, custom-fit truck goodies, and generally one melluvahess in the garage
 
Good deal guys!
Thanks to everyone who gave me some ideas, I'll look into the Eazy Lift and ifn that doesn't do it for me, i'll talk to a welding buddy of mine and tell him about Rich's idea.
Thanks again... Big Uglys of the World... Unite! #ad
 
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