2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission weird door issue

[GiesJ]

It's not Door Rot but this is what my door currently looks like:



I can no longer open the door from the inside of the truck. Outside still works but as you can see the door seal is no longer that good. I don't know what caused this, any ideas? I did notice a slight crack a year ago but just forgot all about it. I am going to a good body shop monday and they think they can patch her up fine. Hopefully, anyone that reads this will quick check their truck and do something preventitive rather than a HAVE to fix.

I have ~130K miles of which many, many miles were fast, hard off road miles in Wyoming (I do have a sweet suspension though). This is the driver door, other door is perfect. I have a club cab also.

Thanks,

Jason

 

[GiesJ]

another pic:

 

[Joe Mc]

Sorry for the long reply - good stuff though.

Man that's a doosey of a mess, good one! That's caused by either the door not being properly aligned or the strike (part that stays w/body) being out of alignment. When you close the door if it's not aligned with the strike it will "bump" then latch. When the body shop repairs the metal have them readjust the door and strike afterwards, preferably before painting. You can check for proper latch alignment by slowly moving the door towards the closed position, if the door hits the strike it's either too high or too low. The strike is adjustable. However, the lower hinge pin could be worn making the door sag causing the misalignment of the strike. With the door wide open lift on the bottom edge of the door closest to the latch - if it moves up and down alot the pin is most likely worn. It's easier to tell if it's the top or bottom hinge if someone looks in the hinge area while you are raising and lowering the door. So, we might be wondering what "alot" is = more than the passenger side.

I see in the first picture there is a small crack that looks like a scratch below the fastener closest to the interior, this is probably the one you noticed a year ago - don't ask me how I know this. OK, I'll tell, mine had the crack too. First I retightened the screws, wiggled the door up and down (yes hinge pin worn - I just shimmed the lower bolt about a 1/4" for now) realigned the strike and all is well so far - oh, I added a very thin fender washer to the latch screw where the crack is - also for now.

I'll bet the shop will remove the latch, flatten out the metal joining it back together and then weld the cracks. If this is their plan ask them to drill a small hole at the end of each crack, this will prevent it from spreading in the future - yes they should do this even if they weld it - I learned this from an old Welder friend of mine - it's a gotta do for a proper repair. This hole will be filled in with metal from the weld and prevent further cracking in the same area. Also ask that they "at least" prime the insde of the repair area before resecuring the latch mechanism.

Ah, might I suggest checking the passenger side . . . I did on mine and it was fine - drivers door takes the most abuse.

Be sure to post pictures of the repair.

 

[GiesJ]

Joe -

Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.

Passenger side is like new.



I checked the striker on the body and it was rock solid. It also looks like the torx screws are tight on the latch portion.



The shop had also mentioned possibly having to use/weld washers in a couple areas. They are a lexus and mercedes specific shop so I am confident when they tear it appart they will fix it right. My fingers are crossed though.



Your idea of drilling the cracks is a good one. Crack propagation can generally be stopped this way.



My biggest concern is getting the door fixed to close solid and to be able to open without having to roll down my window next is rust prevention and if they can match the paint great, but it's not a huge deal for me.

 

[BigPapa]

My window frame broke loose at the bottom just like yours. I was disappointed with the quality of the sheet metal. I used a large SS flat washer and bolted it back in place with the torn piece of metal under the washer. I haven't had any more problems so far.



Scott

 

[GiesJ]

The latch broke completely last night. Had to bungee her together for the ride on the interstate today. Dropped off at the body shop, fingers crossed...

 

[GiesJ]

They had her done by lunchtime - Pic attached. Not the most phenomenal welding I have seen but the door opens and closes. And stays closed.

I think other body shops would have just wanted to replace the door...

 

[Nate]

Hmm. I'm not sure what to say without being insulting so I'll just say it.



It looks like crap if you me. They could have spent a few mins with a grinder and cleaned up the booger weld job at least. I would have took the door apart and put a piece of metal on the backside. Not sure if they did that or not?

 

[GiesJ]

I agree. But it works so whatever. Remember that between my first pic and this pic it broke completely free and was beat up a bit cause I-95 sucks...

It was inexpensive and hopefully I won't have to deal with it ever again.

 

[Joe Mc]

GilesJ - I agree with you and Nate, it ain't the prettist weld job but, it beats the heck out of a bungie cord or the cost of a new door. And, it works & like you said was inexpensive. Now as long as everything is lined up real good you should be fine. Glad it's done.

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I just had this problem on my 96. I'd been putting off rebuilding my hinges. Last Friday, I noticed my door was badly cracked. I decided I needed a new (used) door, since fatigued metal will never be as good as new, plus I needed it fixed ASAP and cheap. So I found a door for $100, in the right color (white) with much better paint than my old door!



When I left the junkyard, I had to hold the door shut! Got the new door just in time! Rebuilt the hinges and bolted up the new door...



Don't ignore bad hinges!



kevin