Welding muffler hangers with 7016

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I welded my muffler hangers with 3/32" E7016 at 90 amps and they keep breaking. Can any one reccomend a softer/better electrode?

Thanks

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1995 4X4 std cab 12 valve, original owner, 100k miles, 14cm turbo, 4" straight exhaust - gutted kitty, EGT and Boost guage, #5 torque, 215 injectors, (370's and delivery valves on the way) AFC spring kit, Pscotty airfilter, Dunrite TC and Red Butt Engineering Torqueflite TransButtyy shift kit, 3. 54 rear, 17. 5" American Racing aluminum wheels, Mickey Thompson MTX's, Rancho's RS9000's, Helwig anti-sway, Starcraft camper and assundry dodad's. Only thing faster than a 12 valve is my Ducati 4 valve

 

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Are you welding to aluminized pipe? Is the weld breaking at the pipe? If so the aluminum is probably contaminating the weld. Grind or file the aluminum off where you want to weld and try again. You could try a 6011 rod. They seem to burn through dirt and other junk better than most.

 

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For sure use 6011 or 6014 for penitration.

7018 makes a pretty weld and is strong but it doesn't penitrate into metal as 6011/6014.
7018's primary use is for a cover weld. First use 6011/6014 then clean the weld and use 7018 for a cover weld that's almost bullet proof. If your using on muffler or tail pipes 6011 should be enough by its self.

On another thought do you have the 7018 in a air tight box, moisture tends to reak havic on the rod/flux also.

Just 2 cents

Mac

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95 Ram 2500 Auto Std Cab, Cat & Muffler Fell off, 125,000 miles.
Bombed-to-be!

 

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Thanks for the replies.

The welds brake at the surface of the aluminized pipe, so I am not getting good penetration.

I do have some 6011, so I will try that. I can not get up in there to ground out old slag, so I will just move the hangers over a bit. Do I need to grind before I use the 6011? Should I use more amps to get pentration. ( I do not want to burn thru the pipe)

Thanks.

 

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When I had my old Lincoln "Doghouse" 90 amps was plenty of heat for 1/8" 7018 on thick metal and you have 3/32". You might be too hot and getting the pipe brittle. Thin metals also crack when they cool down after too much heat also.

 

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One thing nice about 6011 is that the joint doesn't need to be that clean,I've welded though paint,oil and rust with it many times. It' still better to clean the joint as much as possible though,it will make the weld look better and it will be easier to perform the weld. 6011 will take less amps than 7018,turn it down before you start to avoid burning through,if the rod sticks click it up a notch. Try to keep 2/3 of the rod on the thicker metal. With 7018 the rod needs to touch both sides of the joint,with 6011 you need to keep a gap between the rod and the work.

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 11-05-2000). ]

 

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I got some 6011 today. There are about 4" of new snow on the ground and I do not want to weld in the wet, so I practiced on some scrap pipe.

Thanks for the tips.

[This message has been edited by A-bomb (edited 11-06-2000). ]

 

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6011 rods are 60,000psi tensil strength. 7018 are 70,000 psi tensil strength. And so on. For best results on welding use 7018 but use reverse polarity. A little info from an old certified welder.