Welding Rod Question

[Kiohio]

OK,OK so I'm not the prettiest welder, my welding doesn't look all that good either



I have welded up some things on the newly installed flatbed.

They are all stuck good but the finish on the welds could use some prettyin' up.

Some of the welds were vertical and some upside down.

My Horizontal welds aint to bad but those upside down ones aren't so hot.

Welder is an older Lincoln AC only welder goes from 25 amps to 220 if I remember right.



Does anybody know what rod I can use to run over it to make it look nice?



Thanks guys,

KO

 

[RRees]

If its just for looks. And you don't want to add any more strength. Have you thought of JB Weld or maybe a colored silicon to hide the imperfections?

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Have you ever considered a slight upgrade to either a DC stick or a DC MIG/spoolgun machine?



There's a HUGE difference in the amount of spatter and overall appearance of the weldment when you use a DC power supply. My old Miller Syncrowave 180SD was the smoothest thing I've ever used for stick welding - night and day between AC and DC. I imagine the newer inverter based boxes would be even better...



Matt

 

[Kiohio]

I guess because I would know it was there.

I'm weird that way.

Thanks for the ideas though.



KO

 

[Nate]

6011 or 7018 is what I use.

 

[JTruelove]

Going DC is the way to go(less spatter)... but since you have a A/C machine I would use a 6011 and run it downhill and a grinder will always help with imperfections. Going verticle with a 7018 take a lot of practice. If you ever plan to upgrade your machine or borrow a D/C... try 6010(5P). Its mainly use for pipe welding, but is very good for other things. It can be used in all positions and with thin metal a secret is to turn up the machine and pull the rod away from the metal and go vertically down with it. The extra hot temp will fuse the metal together. I have built several boxes that way and it makes for some pretty welds with out grinding. My best advise is to practice, practice practice. A guy told me "your start learning how to weld properly, once you get tired of grinding" How true was he. Good Luck!

 

[Kiohio]

Oh I'd love to upgrade but I use a welder once every few years.

In between from time to time I'll use it for a minute or two.

I have a mig and used it so little that the wire got corroded and it won't feed right.



Thanks, KO

 

[Kiohio]

I was good..... once.

Never managed to be good a second time! :-laf :-laf :-laf



KO

 

[GHarman]

On your vertical welds, knock off the high spots. Run a coverpass downhill with 7014. Ac is definitely not the best but you use what you have. If these are structural welds, get some 7018 that is specified for AC. Run that uphill in a Signwave pattern, pausing at the outside edge on each side of the weld joint. At no time is the rod outside of the joint! Your overhead welds require a tight arc and the correct angle. You didnt mention the material thickness. Wish I could give you a hand. GregH

 

[DJW]

Kiohio ask a welding shop for a few different Drag Rods to try, the coating is so formulated that the rod burns inside the coating, thus preventing sticking or arcing out, Some call it a Farmers' Rod. I've been away from stick welding for some time, so forget the actual numbers of Rod, as the number in general tells you everything you need to know about the Rod.

 

[DJW]

Kiohio another thing I almost forgot, the easiest LH low hydrogen I have ever used in any position was a Japanese Rod, it was given me to use on a construction job, and frankly for all the other American Rod I have ever used, if I was given it to use, I'd work for free, or at least work for wages and buy the Rod. Lincoln Rod has on occasion been the most Crappiest Rod I have ever had the misfortune to use, plus for Migs the most unreliable machines, including the one that read out on the LCD display in 5 languages that I bought. That Japanese Rod running vertical was as if pushing a bare Rod in sand no trouble at all.

 

[GHarman]

Kiohio ask a welding shop for a few different Drag Rods to try, the coating is so formulated that the rod burns inside the coating, thus preventing sticking or arcing out, Some call it a Farmers' Rod. I've been away from stick welding for some time, so forget the actual numbers of Rod, as the number in general tells you everything you need to know about the Rod.

You are probably thinking about 6013 or 7014. Both are very easy to run on AC. Neither penetrate very deep. 60 is tensile strength X 1000 pounds/ sq. inch, 1 is all position. 3 is carbon content. GregH

 

[MChildress]

A 6011 rod I'v found is the most vesatile. It will cut back on the splatter if you can go DC reverse. The 7018 I like on clean metal and long passes. I got some nickle rods a while back and have fixed a few cast projects that were broke. I used to just chunk them. I buggered on my egt prode tap and drilled the middle of the exhaust manifold above the turbo and found it had a center support. I filled the hole with nickel and redrilled off center. I'v heard some of the guys are useing these nickle rod to repair stress cracks in the exhaust manifolds with good results.

 

[GHarman]

DJW brought up another area of concern. When using 7018 make sure you BAKE out rod that has been lying around. LOW HYDROGEN rod ( 7018 ) has a coating that is designed to reduce hydrogen formation in welds. ( basic metallurgy) It is also HYGROSCOPIC (it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere). Look for porosity in your welds. Presence of porosity is function of technique and/ or rod condition. I wrap my 7018 in aluminum foil and stick it in the kitchen oven over night at 400* F. I would store all of my welding rod in a hot box ( Small container with a heat lamp or commercial box? ) or by it only as you need it, especially in your climate. If you are welding hitches and other stressed weldments a fresh can of rod wouldnt hurt. Get some samples of different brands. There is always something new available. GregH

 

[DJW]

According to Lincoln 6010 and 6011 (not sure about 5P) should not be stored in heated cabinet or oven, as they state that type of rod commonally referred too as a "Dip Rod" relies on moisture for proper burn off, probably referring too atmospheric moisture, I have been aware a number of times when heated 6010 rod caused burn-off problems, then again, things change over time, so perhaps for avoiding problems all rod is treated uniformly. A friend of mine an experienced welder said he had stopped using NI-Rod owing to expense when welding cracks in auto exhaust manifolds, and used his Mig with satisfactory results. His method was to grind a V in the crack and weld just about 1/2 inch at a time, allow each weld to cool for about 30 seconds then lightly peen it with a slagging (chipping hammer to some) hammer, he said not to rush the job just take your time. Every one he had done held and he had done quite a number for friends. Not sure what quality of Mig wire he used, but as a contractor he would use the best, as after all he would be the one to redo faulty work, there are various qualities or grades of Mig wire (steel) the best only costs a few more cents per pound, claimed to be equal to 7018 LH (low hydrogen). Wonder if it would work on the 53 block? I understand that for some problem repairs, holes are drilled in the break, tapped out, studs screwed in and welding used to finish the repair, but for a block, the system used to repair the manifolds may be a better try.

 

[rbattelle]

I wrap my 7018 in aluminum foil and stick it in the kitchen oven over night at 400* F. I would store all of my welding rod in a hot box ( Small container with a heat lamp or commercial box? ) or by it only as you need it, especially in your climate.

Why wrap it in aluminum foil? And do you really need to cook them all night?



I've got a 10lb can of Lincoln Excalibur 7018MR (Moisture Resisting) that's been open for several months now. I keep it in a closed container with a big package of silica gel desiccant. I have no idea whether this helps.



I'm such a novice welder I can't tell whether the rods are "wet" or not. I didn't know it could effect the strength of the welds, either. Uh-oh.



Ryan

 

[Flinty]

A seasoned welder taught me to take a handful of rod and try to grind them against each other with kind of a rolling motion with both hands. If they squeak, they're dry. This method has always worked for me. With really moist rod the flux will explode off the rod.

 

[nickleinonen]

I wrap my 7018 in aluminum foil and stick it in the kitchen oven over night at 400* F. I would store all of my welding rod in a hot box ( Small container with a heat lamp or commercial box? )

go out on garbage day and see if you can find an old toaster oven. . i've used an old one before. works well and is dirt cheap/free. . at work we have a proper rod oven. . gets the rods hot enough that you can't hold on to them with a bare hand for much longer than to get some pulled out of the box so you can grab them with a gloved hand. .



i haven't done any stick welding in a while now, i should do some tomorrow at work if i have time [last stick welding i did was on a stainless steel locomotive chemical toilet. the hand pump pivot point came off the lid, and no rivits could be found, but i found some ss rod, so i welded it on - boss was not too happy about it but the toilet pump worked ok]

 

[GHarman]

Gentlemen, Please understand that I mean no offense here. When welding at home you can do as you feel comfortable doing. If you are working on a weldment that is subject to stress and is likely to cause a danger to the public if it comes apart, keeping your welding rod dry is not dependent on our personal preferences. ( Personal Liability ) The moisture requirements are based on Weld Procedure Specifications. I worked out of a CODE shop. All rod was moisture controlled including Lincoln 5P, 5P+ ( variations of LINCOLN 6010 ). All of these parameters were checked, and documented on a form by the Certified Welding Inspector. All of our rod was stored in a hot box and rotated frequently or we opened a new can. Factory sealed cans were considered to have acceptable moisture levels. If your 6010 has a gray or ashen oxide to it, dont use it. It has deteriorated from improper storage. rbattelle, weld failure due to hydrogen cracking is a metallurgical fact. Porosity ( microscopic ) forms during the welding operation from moisture and improper technique ( long arc ). Hydrogen (H) is also formed/trapped intergranularly. Hydrogen likes its H2 (molecule of 2 atoms) form better than H ( single atom). singles migrate and combine in the porous chambers and they actually build an amazing amount of pressure. Add that to the stresses loaded from the outside and you get a failed weldment! Yes I do bake 7018 in my oven at 400*F overnight. Lincoln Excalibur is EXCELLENT rod. GregH

 

[Kiohio]

Wow I have been away a cpl days and came back with a bunch of new threads. I've been using some 6011 and 6013.

The thickness was bad, because I was welding 1/2" to 1/8" steel.

Thanks for all of the tips! I apprecite it!



KO