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Competition Welding the front end

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I was wondering, i want the front end to be like a locker but right now i dont want to spend the money for a ARB locker. Do anyone know when welding the front end, will it be strong enough. I have heard by some peole that wnet you weld the spider gears, they are not strong enough and will break. Need some help...
 
If you weld it properly it should be ok. I suggest you weld plate over the holes in the carrier as well so if the spiders or your welds do break, they will be contained in the carrier and not get into the ring and pinion.



The problem with welding the spiders is your depending on the carrier to handle the stress. It really wasn't designed to do that.
 
you truck has the non disconnect front axle correct? if so i would not weld the front end, it will be the most misserable no turning rig you have ever driven. you can almost forget driving it on the street. now if it is just a sled pulling rig go for it.
 
weld that sucker up!!!! its what im gonna do!



cause if your like me and cant afford a locker or spool then just weld it up--if it breaks then buy a locker. if it doesnt break--GREAT!! ;)
 
I've welded up a bunch of fronts and rears. Clean the gears very well before you weld them. I always use a high nickel rod. I never had one break.
 
Oh... I was thinking the truck was an off road/sled puller something like that. Yeah if your driving in on the road, don't weld it up. A normal 3 point turn will be more like 10 pts. Your arms and steering box will love you too.
 
When in in 2 wheel drive it will act normal only time it will suck is when im in 4 wheel drive. THe only time im in 4 wheel drive is when im pulling or stuck. Never on the road
 
FUL POWER said:
When in in 2 wheel drive it will act normal only time it will suck is when im in 4 wheel drive. THe only time im in 4 wheel drive is when im pulling or stuck. Never on the road



No, even in 2 wheel drive it will suck turning... think about it... both front wheels are turning non stop
 
yep. the only way you could weld it and still have it act like normal on the street would be if you had lock out hubs on the axles.
 
Guys, remember the front alxe disconnect. If he has it, when it's out of 4wd the collar that couples the shafts together in the axle (behind the CAD ((central axle disconnect)) housing) will uncouple and the 2 sides can turn at different speeds. No need for hubs. So this may be an option if you do indeed have the CAD system , just remember if you ever need 4x4 on the street I. E. snow, it's going to be a bear.



I thought that they got away from the CAD alxes in 2001 though. Make sure you have it.

Corey
 
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im 98% sure that i do have the CAD on my truck. On the right sife of the housing i have a the unit that slide the coupling. But im not 100% sure
 
I put 55000 miles and about 350 hooks on one of my trucks with a welded front end. And about 30000 of those miles I was towing my other pulling truck. It WILL drive fine in 2 wheel drive. But you cant put it in 4 wheel till your on the track and lined up with the sled because you will not steer it. This is true as long as your truck has the CAD axle---my 2001 does ----As jdaily said clean the spiders real good and use a high nickel rod.
 
One of my friends said "ill try to get this right" he said sont weld the teeth but weld in between the teeth. It gives some movement but solid but it makes it sold but with a little give. He doesnt weld the teeth. Not for sure that i explained it well. .
 
What he means is I weld the space between the spider gears full of weld. You just need to weld the spaces of the four contact points of the spiders where they mesh together thus not letting the spiders turn within each other. This also gives a little movement back and forth in the spiders and is a stress release to some extent. Just replace spiders and your back to open carrier. Did this alot on my 14 bolts but broke alot of the cross section that the spiders are on.
 
Don't weld the gears!



If you want a locked front, spend the money and put a mini spool in it. They are usually less then 100 bucks new.
 
All the ones I have welded I have pulled the whole carrier, and cleaned in the parts washer before and after welding, I have used the nickel rod, it works good but you have all the flux to deal with, I have also wire welded them and they seem to work fine also. Either way it seems to work better to pull the carrier to keep the heat off the axle shafts when you weld up the spiders. The comment on welding in between the spiders teeth and not welding them together works ok and gives a little, but in the right case the spiders can slacken up and then gain momentum and slam into the weld basically shock loading them and ultimately failing.
 
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