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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Westach Fuel Pressure Guage install

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Camplate removal

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP44 - the light dawns - maybe...

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Been reading posts on Westach Fuel Pressure gauge installs & am confused. On the sending unit, are most people using a Banjo bolt directly on the forward vent plug on the Fuel filter housing & then installing the 45 degree fitting supplied with the gauge from genos? Then from that 45 degree fitting, adapting to hose to the sending unit? How & where are you mounting the sending unit, or are you placing the sending unit directly onto the 45 degree fitting that is screwed into the banjo bolt that is screwed directly into the fuel filter housing? (Fwd venting plug)

Does anyone have pictures that they can post or direct me somewhere to look @ some pics of an installation?

Also, I have a cub-by hole plate from Eric Buckle, Salt Lake City, Utah & don't fully understand how to make this thing work either...



All help would be SINCERELY APPRECIATED. .



Clay
 
I used the taped banjo bolts and a 12" grease gun hose. No 45* adapter needed. One sender is off the intake on the back side of the fuel filter (pre filter). My second sender is off the bottom of the fuel filter (post filter). I then mounted the senders on a custom bracket off the brake master cylinder. Used Permitex to seal the threads. Has been working great for over a year.



If I were to install just 1 sender I would want it post filter.
 
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I just e-mailed you three pics. Too big to post here. I just installed the 45 directly on top of my fuel filter. Believe post filter is the port closest to the engine. Has worked flawlessly ever since. Made my own cubby hole mount from Aluminum plate and flat black paint. Would go into more detail but am in a hurry to leave work. Hope this helps. Others here know a lot more than I do .
 
Fuel Pump Pressure

Got it! I spoke to Andy @ Geno's Garage & he was extremely helpful. I bought this setup from my brother & he has a 2002 thus the need for the banjo bolt... .

I didn't realize that you had to take the sash trim off. A little nerve-racking getting that removed but I did finally get it. Does anyone know if the power is suppose to be switched? I would assume it would be... . I have 11 PSI @ idle, & about 10 PSI @ 70. Too foggy tonite for a WOT test.

Is my lift pump marginal with these pressures?



Thanks, Clay
 
I installed a Westech FP gage also. Considering the 12V for power required, I connected at I believe fuse #16 behind the small fuse cover on side of driver's dash on my 2001. 5 model. This is an accessory fuse location that happens to be switched on and off with your key, at least it is on mine. You can get an add a circuit at autozone or some such place, and it is one of the small fuses. Probably use the smallest amperage fuse you can get which may be a 3A fuse and that I am sure would be more than enough! The one I got had to be oriented only one way, for it to work, and had to trim some tiny ridges off it for it to slip into the accessory fuse slot. Now it shuts down when I turn off the key. No worry about the continuous current drain, not that it would have been much anyway.
 
Originally posted by PMalin

I installed a Westech FP gage also. Considering the 12V for power required, I connected at I believe fuse #16 behind the small fuse cover on side of driver's dash on my 2001. 5 model. This is an accessory fuse location that happens to be switched on and off with your key, at least it is on mine. You can get an add a circuit at autozone or some such place, and it is one of the small fuses. Probably use the smallest amperage fuse you can get which may be a 3A fuse and that I am sure would be more than enough! The one I got had to be oriented only one way, for it to work, and had to trim some tiny ridges off it for it to slip into the accessory fuse slot. Now it shuts down when I turn off the key. No worry about the continuous current drain, not that it would have been much anyway.



Really appreciate learning about the "add a circuit". I have been dreading trying to get to the cigarett lighter and was concerned about its 20 amp fuse. Always pays to check TDR daily:D :D :D
 
Here's my pressure pickup connection a common AC hose and service connector - no mods, no valve removal, simply screw it on or off in seconds - AND, it reads PSI rignt at the VP44, where it's most important!



#ad




Here's my sender mount:



#ad




A single stainless U-bolt to one of the Brake line connectors from the booster, and a L-shaped braket I happened to have - but could easily fabricate - it all works GREAT!
 
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The relay is to activate my added fuel pusher pump, it is activated by the stock lift pump's primary circuit, and the added pump then has it's own separate 12 volt supply - this eliminates the double current draw that would otherwise be placed upon the stock pumps control circuit if you simply try to run the in parallel - the relay itself only adds 70 milliamps to the stock LP circuit, and is a Radio Shack item...
 
fuel pressure

12 black www.tcarberry@canada.com



I also have a 99 1 ton with 3. 54 5 spd I bought two senders and one gauge and I plumbed them in to the top of the fuel filter with the use of low grade s/s hydrolic lines to the senders mounted to the engine with 1. 25 angle iron.



Think I grounded the one end and the other end of wire to a SPDT switch . The two wires go to the two postes on the outsides of the switch with the center wire to the gauge this allows you to monitor the pressure on both sides of the fuel filter.

This has worked fairly well so far, and I am still on the same filter for there is only about 3 LBS drop across the filter.
 
Gary - KJ6Q



Where did you find that A/C hose? Looks like an easier hookup than the banjo bolt and if you have any problems (hole in hose etc) you could just unscrew it. TIA Phil
 
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