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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Wet floor

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On a recent trip my co pilot complained that the floor was wet on her side of the truck. Seems the ac is draining okay whenI stop. Before I starttearing into the drain system on the ac does anyone have any experiance on this kind of problem??Sure could use some help! Thanx!
 
You might check the rubber drain on the firewall and make sure it is completely clean. Also take it off and make sure the plastic drain tube is clean. I have seen them be partly restricted and drip out the rubber drain but not fast enough to keep the evaporator case from filling up and leaking in the cab. The one I had someone had used silicone to help hold the rubber elbow on and the excess plugged it up.

Good Luck,

Matt
 
They couldn't use a computer chip to drain the water

so they couldn't design a functional drain at all.



At highway speed, a "normal" dodge drain can experience backwash from the airflow. It would appear to be working normally when parked, but blow back in the tube and soak your floor when traveling. Mine did that. A length of hose and zip tie solved the problem. But not before it got so bad my fan was "whizzing" in water and my freshly painted and sealed floor and the carpet was soaked. There's no mistaking the sound of fan blades hitting water...
 
I had the same trouble with mine 2000. I also took some tubing, slipped it over the drain with a clamp and routed it down and aft so that air would create a venturi affect and create a vacuum on the end of the hose to help suck the water out while driving.
 
Did you experience any heavy rain either on the drive or before you left? Do you have a sliding rear window? The rear sliders are notorious for leaking and they tend to send the water to the passengers side floorboard. I spent more time than I care to admit getting mine sealed.
 
No. Mine was caused by the pressure from the air coming around the accumulator on the air cond not letting the water run out the drain while driving. In a turn it would actually pour out the airconditioner heater vents near the floor. After putting the hose on I've never had another problem. In the south the humidity is so high air cond make lost of water from condensation.
 
I bought the smallest diameter size(they only had two sizes) heater hose (2ft) and a clamp and haven't had any problems since.

The sealant around the a/c drain dries out and the water will leak into the cab from there while driving down the road.
 
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Does anyone know what size this hose is? how long are yall making the hose? mine does this also and i would like to fix it with out a bunch of trips to the hardware store.
 
I posted the below post on 9-27-2007, I hope this helps. It stopped the water on the floor for me.

There are two main causes of water on the floor board. The most common cause is the Center High Mounted Stop Light on the back of the cab. The seal sometimes does not seal properly. The second most common cause is the drain off of the A/C system is clogged.
On my truck, I sealed the CHMSL with a little silicone while installing my satellite antenna. This did not solve my problem and the floor was wet from about just below the carpet line in the front to almost the back seat. I took out the back seat and loosened a lot of the screws for the trim and propped the carpet up for drying. I even was able to remove about 6-8 cups of water. I then went to NAPA and got the hose attachment that fits around the outside. Here's the link I used.

water leak from under dash...

In short the part # at NAPA is 9808. It is a small heater hose that has a 90 bend in it. I used a stainless worm-gear clamp and attached it to the bung on the engine side of the fire wall.
No problems since, no mater how much water came in. If you would like pics let me know and I will take a few and post. It took me more time to go get the part from NAPA than it did to install. I also cleaned out the drain before I installed the hose. I hope this helps.

Still no water problems for my truck as of 09-2010. Good Luck.
 
Many owners experience this after they level the front ends of their trucks. A simple piece of hose placed on the A/C drain fixes the issue.

FYI...
There is no drain hose placed on the Dodge Ram A/C drains from Ma Mopar.
 
JohnBoy5, I put a socket on the drain so see what size it was. Then went to auto parts store bought the closest size to the socket size and a clamp. I tried three differnt lengths. The 2 foot length worked for me.
 
JohnBoy5, I put a socket on the drain so see what size it was. Then went to auto parts store bought the closest size to the socket size and a clamp. I tried three differnt lengths. The 2 foot length worked for me.



thanks for the info, did you see where KKohagen has a napa part number 9808 for a heater hose that has a molded 90˚ angle in it?



here is a picture of it on napa's web site Store Locator | NAPA Online



hope this helps also
 
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The best part about the NAPA part was it was exactly the right size, ~$10, and exactly the solution to my wet carpet. It has not happened since. That way you do not have to go back and forth trying to get the right size hose to fit. Good Luck.
 
I recently had a new dash put in my 94 2500. I do not often have passengers, so I did not notice until the other day that I had water in the passenger side running from the drain on the heater/AC unit to the floor and exiting at the running board. I seem to remember this problem from years ago and the fix was easy, but of course I have forgotten. It was a clog somewhere. I have felt the drain nipple and there is no hose there. Sounds like there should be. The local guy says just blow out the nipple, but that does not sound right. The shop manual says to be sure to align the heat/AC unit correctly or water will drain into the passenger side. Well, it seems to be aligned, but how can I tell? Is it supposed to have a drain hose attached to the nipple (engine side of firewall)? And how do you "unclog" the line? Of course it is possible that the new dash installation has nothing to do with the problem, but seems likely.
 
It didn't come with a drain hose, but installing one is pretty easy. Over the years the seal disintegrates and at highway speeds the water is blown back onto the firewall, hence the leak. Before you install a hose run a zip tie into the nipple to check for a clog. I used an L shaped spark plug boot and zip tied it on.
 
I had to replace mine fell/knocked off (lot of truck tire treads left on I-4). My mechanic had the exact size 5/8. But the 90 degree hose sounds like the best Idea. (Passagener floor was getting wet again notice the hose was gone. )
 
Well, the little hose fixed it! I had a piece of clear plastic hose 5/8" i. d. that I use for my outdoor pond pumps. I put a zip tie over the end and snugged it before sliding the hose over the nipple. It fits fine though I can see no way one man can tighten the tie. The hose is about 8" long and curves downward.



Of course two local shops said if blowing the drain clear of any blockage (which I tried) did not work, they would have to remove the dash to fix it... at a cost of about $350. 00! The fix cost less than $1... Thanks to all the great TDR members who have saved me thousands over the years... .
 
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