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What about a smooth fuel plate???

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Piers or someone help me out here, this is just an idea. What if someone was to grind the front of thier fuel plate smooth, what would it do, would hp increase? Would you risk screwing your pump up like running no plate at all, no offense Holeshot. I just don't understand why fuel plates or so expensive, couldn't you just get a dremel tool, and copy one with your stock plate??? What do you guys think? My mind is wondering around for ideas.
 
Actually, a lot of developement goes into those things so they know how much fuel they are delivering and be safe. Safe is the key word and you are paying a goodly amount for that! I don't mind the price, it's still cheap HP and those guys gotta make a living too! They bring us some very fine Goodies and it wouldn't be right to circumvent their efforts. Please don't take this wrong, I'm not flaming at all! I'm guilty of grinding my own but I would have gladly paid if I could have found what I wanted. I just got fussy and wanted a little different curve. The next step in an 'off the shelf plate' wouldn't give me just a little bit more, where I wanted it! Craig
 
What part of the plate does what?...

Just wondering what portion of the plate does what... ??



Assuming the plate is shaped like an upside-down stair case, what does the first step do? lower-end fuel, mid-range, or upper-end fuel? Do the steps in the plate correspond with any specific gear OR does the same plate shape (steps or notches) start over again with each gear?



I've seen photos of where people have ground just one small portion of the plate and have always wondered how they knew where to shave just that little bit... .



Would like to more more. I'm not content knowing that you push the throttle and the truck takes you from point A to point B. I'm more analytical and pass my time wondering where my fuel arm is touching the plate at any given moment. :) Knowing a littel more about this would help me understand how everything fits together.



Thanks
 
Yeah, they have to make a living to, I agree with you. And also if people will pay it, charge that for it, supply and demand, you know. Hey Schomer, do you have a pic of yours??
 
When we began designing and testing our torque plates one of the first things we found was 30 thousands could make or break 20-25 hp. Yes we could grind them out of aluminium and cut CNC time way down, but(there is always a but) those plates would wear very quick. Guess where the worn off metal goes?
 
No I didn't take a pic. The 11 was the closest thing to what I wanted, so I ground my stock plate like the 11 and went from there. That way if I FIU, I'd still have a good 11. I only wanted a little more top end fuel without changing the rest, so my change was fairly minor. A little does a lot! I'd still recommend buying the max safe plate for your application and only doing this as the last resort. My 11 was in the stock position, which was forward about . 040" and I couldn't hit much over 1200 egt no matter how hard I tried. TST did an EXCELLENT job at making it 'hot' but safe! I didn't want the monster lower end clutch wreckin' 10 when it couldn't have given me hardly any more top end fuel than the 11, in the stock position. This was the only thing I could do without breaking the 'clutch barrier'. BTW, the plates are harder than Chinese Arithmatic! I did mine on a surface grinder. Craig
 
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McDowra, I know some folks up your way Wayne Young, Allen Dudley, David Lemmond and Reed(that's all I know him by... or by the Alabama turbo guy)



S Lewis, one thing I noticed in the plates with my change was the #4 in stock position created about the same EGT's as the #8 all the way forward, except the #4 does it real quick then cut's it back on the top end, the only reason I changed was for the future, now I need injectors and a turbo.



Jim
 
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