What are you guys using in your solvent tank?

[rubberneck]

So i was flipping through a catalogue and have been thinking about a solvent tank for cleaning parts. Only thing is it appears everybody is going to the water soluble stuff. how does it work?? Can you still get the good old "hazardous" stuff.

 

[lil red cummins]

i guess Gunk would be the original water soluble stuff, however i have never seen it in a wash tank. biggest problem with water soluble is rusting of raw metal parts when rinsed.



we've used Agitene over the years at our shop. it is NOT water soluble. it has a fairly high flash point and when blown off with air, leaves a relatively dry surface. odor is not too bad. has very good cleaning properties. you should wear gloves when using this as it will defat your hands and turn them white. this is the best of the "old" stuff. parts do not rust.



also recommended if you use this in a typical parts washer with drum tank , put a little water at the bottom of the drum. the drain hose from the strainer should extend into the water. the theory is that the dirt will stay trapped in the water, while the solvent will rise back to the top clean.



it's available from w. w. grainger.



jim h

 

[WDixon27]

my mix for about the last 7 years is, 3 gallons of "mac's" degreaser concentrate from napa and 15-20 gallons of diesel, cuts crud good and doesn't burn your hands if you work in it a long time, it also has the cool ability to be rinsed off with water with very little residue (this depends on how much oil is absorbed, i am a couple years on this batch and it need to be washed off now, haven't had time to change it), it's only as flammable as diesel so you don't need to worry about open flames elsewear in the shop

 

[rubberneck]

Cool, thanks, i will check it out some more. I had used some citrus based stuff that my dad had in his tank a while back, but when you would blow the parts off, they wouldn't be dry. Took a lot longer than the good ol stuff to dry which was annoying. Plus it didn't seem to clean as well.

 

[rbattelle]

My "solvent tank" consists of a 5-gallon pail into which I dip parts and soak for a day at a time or more. Then I hose them off.



The chemical I've been using is Simple Green all-purpose in a 10:1 mix with water. I've soaked a lot of cast iron, wrought iron, cast steel, and forged steel parts in it. As long as the parts are completely submerged, I've yet to experience any rust. If a part sticks out of the solution, water vapor above the liquid level does cause surface rust.



The stuff is strong enough to remove most industrial enamels, but doesn't harm nylon or other plastic parts.



I clean everything with Acetone before painting, because the Simple Green does leave a residue.



Ryan

 

[ScottLewis]

I tried a couple of water solubles but found them less effective and saw rusting of the painted steel tank. Being cheap, I tried common paint thinner and used it for quite awhile. Seemed to work pretty well and no more dangerous than other solvents.



Dan

 

[Hoefler]

I use mineral spirits ( paint thinner ). Biodegradable, soap and water soluble, high flash point. If you can find it in bulk, it cost about $1. 00 gallon.

 

[OKish]

i use diesel, kerosene, or simple green. whatever works.

 

[jdooner]

When I had a cleaning tank, I used paint thinner... . cuz it was cheaper than anything else that I knew of at the time.

 

[dtygart]

I get safety solvent in bulk from my Shell jobber.

 

[jmorse]

I use kerosene, that way I can mix with my waste oil and burn it in my waste oil furnace.

 

[cruiser_2]

Iuse regular old mineral spitits for most parts... works pretty well, but when I really need something very clean I use Berryman's Chemtool carb cleaner and have a 2 gal dip bucket and basket. Works great, just a little expensive to use for everything.



I have started powdercoating rather than painting. Clean with MEK or other similar solvent allow to dry, then powder coat and bake. TONS better than paint!



John