Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) what bolt do you remove for boost.

[ecv2001]

I bought one of pierce diesels replacement intake bolts but not sure what bolt to replace to hook up the boost gauge.

anyone know.

 

[jrollins]

i believe the bolt is on the intake in-between the fuel filter and firewall end of the block. anyone please correct me if i am wrong!

 

[JCyrbok]

bolt

I used the 3/4 inch, square drive pipe plug that is btween the fuel filter and the MAP sensor on the driver side. I think this is what you are asking? dont use the smaller pipe plug towards the rear of the engine, this one has coolant behind it.



hope this helps



J-

 

[Thomas]

Here you go:



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[RKohn]

Nice pics Thomas!!!

Clean install too.

 

[Thomas]

They are nice aren't they! If you'll check their properties you should see that the pictures are not mine and are actually on the PDR website

 

[B9Mile]

Pipe Plug Location:



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_2_feb98/fuel_sys_comp.htm

 

[SnoKing]

That where I put my Piers Special bolt. I had it in the 3/4 plug location close to the firewall, however the gauge pulsed. SNOKING

 

[ecv2001]

I went to check the web site today but there was some kind of worm interupting the forums.

I just pulled a bolt out of the manifold and installed the new one.

Thanks thomas anyway. The one I pulled was two down towards the firewall and was'nt holding down the injector rack.

pyro and boost all hooked up and working.

jim c

 

[rfcom]

Gauge ports

Well I guess my question on where to tap into boost pressure is answered. (order that bolt from Piers). For the EGT, is there any other option besides drilling and tapping the manifold? Some e-brakes are predrilled/tapped in the elbow, but I don't have one yet. Thx.



Jim

 

[ecv2001]

It was'nt that bad to tap the exhaust manifold. The only thing i did wrong was tap in the middle of the manifold. this is not the right spot for there is a divider in the middle. so i threaded it and put an 1/8 npt brass plug in the hole. then I tapped the right side using a new cobalt steel 5/16 drill bit. Then use a 1/8 " npt thread tap and thread slowly by hand or using a T handle, because there is no room in there using the long handle.

Have handy a telescopeing magnet and drill carefully and slow.

Clean often before you punch through the manifold and use cutting oil and the shavings mostly stick to the drill bit.

when you get through the manifold stick the magnet down the hole and get whatever may have fallen down there.

piece of cake. I just got sick of f**ckin around and did it.

Also there is a wire loom on the left side of the fire wall that has a rubber seal around it. this spot i found to be a good point of entry for any wiring you will need to feed into the cab.

when wiring your gauges the light brown wire in the headlight switch is the dimmer switch wire.

when going out of the a post column you can feed the wire up near the fuse panel on the left side of the dash.

Any other questions and i can help just let me know.

jim c

 

[Big White Beast]

One thing I noticed.....

Is that the bolt is made of steel. Mine has started to rust. You might want to give it a shot of paint before install to keep it looking good.



Secondly, When drilling the manifold on the 02 the drill bit shattered as it was going through. Shop vac and compressor couldn't find that last little piece. It aint pretty. It doesn't take that long to remove the turbo and you'll have piece of mind.



Garrett



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[rashwor]

Ouch!

BWB... you were right when you said it was not pretty! Sorry for your troubles.



On the bright side, I sure am glad I pulled the turbo to put my thermocoupler in. I had no idea that it could do that much damage. :--)

 

[Big White Beast]

Remember though......

That was a shattered bit. Hardened steel versus just metal shavings. The one on my 01 went so well I got lazy on the 02. In hind sight after the bit shattered I pulled the turbo to clean it out. I should have fired the engine up once for a few seconds to clean anything out that went down the manifold as it does have a slight slope.



I had a piers HX-35 on the 01 so I had a spare which saved the day. In the interim though I bought a used one through the classifieds and sent it to piers for modifications. transmission is getting done in a few weeks and I'll put it on then with the 275 injectors.



Garrett

 

[ecv2001]

look at the bright side, You get to upgrade your turbo. If that happened to me I would have bought the 16" housing and a new impeller.

 

[JyRO]

Waiting to see an answer...

to rfcom's question regarding an alternate place to tap for the EGT probe.

For the EGT, is there any other option besides drilling and tapping the manifold? Some e-brakes are predrilled/tapped in the elbow, but I don't have one yet.

I'm on the verge of getting gaged up. I've only been reading, not really noting anything regarding EGT when I pop the hood. I thought there was a place on the post turbo side of a stock exhaust that was convenient (like a predrilled/tapped spot). Am I just thinking of an exhaust brake possibly having a predrilled/tapped spot for it, like rfcom asked? T. I. A.



- JyRO

 

[rashwor]

EGT tapping...

I believe that some of the exhaust brakes come tapped and ready to go for an EGT probe, but for the best, most accurate reading, you would want to pre-turbo IMO. Post turbo will be lower and slower to respond to changes.



I did and am very happy with the instantanious readings I get. I can get my EGTs to almost 1100* loaded on an otherwise stock truck. I have an EZ on the way and we will see how the EGTs do with it and the truck loaded.

 

[rfcom]

Tapping

After a little more research, I found that the BD has a predrilled/tapped EGT port and Jacobs has bosses moulded in so you can drill it yourself. As for PacBrake and Banks, I don't know. You can also get steel fittings for welding into the downpipe.



I agree that for the most accurate readings and quickest response, the probe should be in the manifold, ie. before the turbo. Personally however, I am not so much interested in the absolute actual temperature as I am in knowing if I am too hot or not. If the probe is post turbo, you can do a little math to extrapolate the manifold temperature, but you must also know the boost pressure. I believe if you take the post turbo temp (*F)and add 300 + 10 deg for every pound of boost, you will get the manifold temp. I hope someone will correct me if this is wrong.

 

[Big White Beast]

Drilling and Tapping......

Isn't that bad. What happened to me was a freak when the bit shattered. My only suggestion is to remove the turbo before doing it. It's not difficult and will give you piece of mind when finished.



ATS (not the transmission guys) has a three piece manifold that has a pre drilled port if you wanted to go that route.



Garrett

 

[ecv2001]

If you use a new cobalt drill bit and go slow it cuts the manifold like butter. But like i said clean as you go.

It took 15 minuets to drill and tap the manifold.

I looked at some of the other options but found the manifold to be the easiest to do. There is no room to fit a welder lead in the back of the engine compartment to weld the fitting to the muffler,or even drill the hole unless you had an angle drill.

I also have a jake brake and there is no hole to mount the pyro that i can see. It is an after market angle with the brake installed in it.

I did'nt want to drill in my manifold at start but after i did it, It was the only way to install the pyro in my opinion.

Just get a 5/16 cobalt steel bit(new). and a 1/8 npt tap and make your threads. The pyro gauge should have everything else with it. Just use some anti sieze when you thread it into the manifold.

good luck.

jim c