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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What Brake Pads and Rotors are best

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Looking for suggestions as to which brake pads and rotors members have found to be the best for a 99 Ram2500. In the North country with alot of snow, salt and sand on roads. Thanks, Keith
 
the ceramic pads i installed on my truck work pretty good, i put stock dealer rotors on it due to the inconvenient timing of both front hubs going pretty much at the same time, given a choice i would of gotten slotted rotors as they have served me well on several cars
 
I put on the Hawk pads from Geno's and a set of Power Slot rotors on the truck in my sig line about 1000 miles ago and have been very impressed with them. Much better than stock in my opinion.



Quick and easy but I did not have to deal with the hubs due to the change in 2001 for the rotors/hubs.

Hope this helps,

J-
 
I did the EGR slotted rotors and superduty calipers along with their recommended pads (don't remember exactly their composition) about 3 years ago and have been very happy with the results. That was probably 40 or 50 thousand miles ago and when I checked them this last fall there was lots of pad left. I relube the caliper sliders once or twice a year to keep the wear even on the pads and rotors.



Not the cheapest option, but they work extremely well.



-Jay
 
I put NAPA's best drillled and slotted rotors and pads on my 97 just a few months ago. I looked at the power stop and EGR and Hawk pads and they were on my list to choose from. I'd recommend either NAPA's best or Power Slot/Stop rotors from Summit and Hawk pads from Summit. A lot of guys have used the EGR rotors also. I picked NAPA because I get a good discount and I've dealt with the same guys there for 20 years so they know what I want. They also got them the next day for me and I was in a hurry. They also assured me they were not made overseas but in USA. I like they slotted/drilled design since there were not as many drilled holes as some of they rotors had. The pattern was less holes and slots so it would not weaken (in my mind) the rotor. Some of the other rotors looked like swiss cheese... . they had bunches of holes in them.



Good luck,

Dave
 
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It has been said in various forums that drilled rotors are not a good idea on these trucks due to the weight, especially when towing, and therefore the heat they produce. The holes can lead to warping and cracking. However, a lot of guys use them and I've never heard of anyone having problems doing so. Since yours have less holes than others, you'll probably be just fine unless you tow big loads a lot, particularly in the mountains.



-Jay
 
As with a lot of other guys on here, I put the powerslot rotors with Hawk heavy duty pads, very pleased with the results. Admittedly I am hard on brakes, but so far this setup has lasted me almost 18,000 trouble free miles. I rotated my tires the other day and inspected the brake pads and they looked great, as well as the rotors, very pleased. I got mine off of autoanything.com, free shipping, I think both rotors and pads were around $180-200, something like that. The rotors on a 99 and previous years are a pain to take off though.
 
It has been said in various forums that drilled rotors are not a good idea on these trucks due to the weight, especially when towing, and therefore the heat they produce. The holes can lead to warping and cracking. However, a lot of guys use them and I've never heard of anyone having problems doing so. Since yours have less holes than others, you'll probably be just fine unless you tow big loads a lot, particularly in the mountains.



-Jay
That's one reason I picked the NAPA rotors... much less holes.
 
I've had the NAPA drilled and directional rotors on the '96 for 70K now and have not had any issues at all. Previously I was relacing rotors at 15K because they would warp. I also tow heavy and had a bad brake controller, I have had NO warpage with the NAPA stuff. The pads that I use are the severe duty NAPA pads for a 1 ton Chebby SD ( same pad but a little more material) For the price ($88. 00 each) I could not pass on the rotors, the pads were $65. 00 and change. No complaints from the NAPA products.
 
I think your '96 is like my '98, which is different from the newer ones (after 2000). That is, the bearing hub is an integral part of the rotor. If you attempt to pull the rotor off with a puller, you often separate the hub and that's no good. First, pull the tire/wheel and squirt some Kroil or PB Blaster around the back of the rotor where its pressed into the steering assembly and let that do its work for a while.

Now if you look at the back of the assembly you should see 4 bolts holding the rotor/bearing assembly on. You have to remove those to pull the rotor. But it can be seized in the steering assembly (knuckle?). That's why the Kroil/PB Blaster. So what's been suggested (and I did this) is to back the bolts out several turns then use a socket and extension to go between the bolt and the suspension. Start the truck and turn the wheel and use the power steering with the socket/extension as a "press" to push on the bolt HEAD (make sure you're pressing on the bolt head!) and thus the rotor out of the steering knuckle. Obviously, you'll need someone to help. Press a little on each bolt, turning one way for the back ones and the other way for the front ones. Just be easy and take your time. Make sure both front wheels are on stands and the rear wheels are blocked.

Its been a few years since I did this so I'm a bit vague on the exact details.

-Jay
 
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Whatever you do, make sure not to pull the axles out. Happened to me and now the axle seal is leaking on the drivers side. Its not an easy job to do the seal either.



With my truck, the hub on the drivers side went out, and I had to pull the entire hub/rotor, and press the studs out before the rotor was free. I put Hawk SD pads on, much better than stock!
 
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