What did I do? transmission fluid dripping then stopped from under the TC cover. transmission ad

[brillmtb]

While towing this week on vacation I noticed a small puddle of transmission fluid that seemed to be coming from what appears to be a small, removable cover under the TC. It has now stopped? Odd? If I warpped or cracked the TC would it just keep going?

What do you all think this is and if it is time to replace the TC should I be rebuilding the transmission. I have 180K and plan on keeping the truck longer so that gets me into the most important question, if I have to do the TC and it makes sense to do the transmission when out then...

1. What is the best TC for my 2003 so I never have to do this again.
2. Is there a stronger upgrade path for my transmission?
3. If I do 1 and 2 above can I get away with an exhaust brake or just asking for more problems given the bearing issue on the pre 04.5 or something like that.

Thanks. I am sure that there will be a lot of opinions on this on.

 

[cerberusiam]

Might nothing wrong at all. If the trans is over full and you work the truck hard it can and will kick fluid up high enough the vent on the pump inside the bell housing will leak fluid. Sometimes it doesn't need to be over full, just the type of towing and how the truck is being used will cause it to vent and drip. Check your fluid on a flat surface, trans in neutral, and everything up to operating temp and see where the level is.

 

[JJPage]

Exactly what cerb just said, had this same issue with my truck, did not have to drain any fluid, did it twice towing the same remote mountain pass and has not repeated. The trans being a bit too full will not hurt anything, unless foaming starts to occur, that and it (fluid) will expand and leak out of the vent weep hole high up on passenger side bell housing.

You are probably not due for a trans rebuild just yet...when you are, fill out your sig and location, the members will have an easier time matching you with a reputable transmission builder close to your home, for convenience. Jess

 

[brillmtb]

So there is a vent that if it overflows, will drip down the the little plate that I am looking at that covers the TC? Can I see the vent from inside the hood or is it out of sight. It is interesting that I was towing 10K and fairly hard and then when the leak made me think real hard about driving easier it seemed to stop. Back two days now and no drip? I did check the dipstick when hot and I thought that it threw fluid up the stick as the fluid was generously above the hot line. I did fairly recently have a transmission shop flush with amsoil again and I will have to say I didn't check their work in terms of fluid level until this happened.

Would it make any sense to just replace the TC in my truck given this is one of the weakest parts? At 180K miles and the ATO rebuild to run 6500 it seems that I should be thinking new truck if I get to that point but then I like my simple 03. Dont know how good the new ones are as I have not been following closely.

Thanks for your help.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, the vent is on the transmission pump behind the TC. You can't see unless the trans is out and you take the TC out. It will run out the vonet on out the cover on the bottom of the transmission bell housing making you think there is a leak. If it stopp ed after you slowed down the aggressive driving the trans is likely just a little over full and the extra hard driving just started throwing enough fluid around is leaked a little. Pretty commen occurence if the trans gets a little over full cold, the heat will cause enough expansion it can slop out the vent. Usually no problem just messy and worrisome.

A good TC will always make a difference. At 180k a rebuild may be warranted because you start putting more power thru the trans then it finds another weak spot.

The new trucks are NICE, NICE. NICE!!!! and $$,$$,$$!!!

The simplicity and efficiency of an 03 5.9 is a distant memory (you don't want anything but a 13+ truck), just changing the oil filter is an adventure, repair parts are in short supply, and you have a million mile umbilical to the dealer with them. If you can live with that then a new truck is a great idea.

 

[brillmtb]

Can I ever get the transmission in the 03 to handle an exhaust brake. Long ago when I bought new I was counting on this then the bad news came out. I could put discs on the trailer but then dont have an exhaust brake. Who would you trust on the rebuild in terms of parts. I am in Reno and dont know a respectable transmission place nearby but have not started asking. Seems that if I plan to go another 100K is would not be a bad idea.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, the trans will hold an EB just fine with some modifications and possibly an add on TC lockup controller. Lots of auto trucks running an EB with good results.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Mine vomitted oil out of the front pump seal when I smoked it pulling hard. It stopped leaking when I got it to cool down but the damage was done. I went ahead and put in a Goerend tc and Goerend valve body. It was really fixed then!

 

[JJPage]

Can I ever get the transmission in the 03 to handle an exhaust brake. Long ago when I bought new I was counting on this then the bad news came out. I could put discs on the trailer but then dont have an exhaust brake. Who would you trust on the rebuild in terms of parts. I am in Reno and dont know a respectable transmission place nearby but have not started asking. Seems that if I plan to go another 100K is would not be a bad idea.

DTT built my trans with the idea of me adding an exhaust brake at a later date, they supplied a diagram for the lockup switches, everything needed. Too bad they do not seem to be in that business any longer...

 

[brillmtb]

It was the thrust bearing or something like that that was improved in the 4.5 forward if I recall. Besides adding a TC lock switch or new TC can this bearing be "fixed" to handle the reverse torque?

 

[DonFitzwater]

Have your trans built into a 48re (If I remember correctly, your trans is a 47re) by adding a six pinion planetary and the upgraded thrust washer. Once you get a good torque converter and valve body she'll hold almost anything.

 

[cerberusiam]

The supposed thrust washer failure point that was fixed in 04 shoud be available in a good rebuild kit. That would be something to check on to make sure it is in a kit, might be the difference between a standard and a good rebuild kit. Supposedly the activation part of the TC lockup was built into the ECU's but that may vary by year. Without that part you would need a controller for a one button activation.

 

[JJPage]

It was the thrust bearing or something like that that was improved in the 4.5 forward if I recall. Besides adding a TC lock switch or new TC can this bearing be "fixed" to handle the reverse torque?

Yes (thrust bushing), this was added to my build.

 

[cerberusiam]

HO truck has a 48RE transmission, has all the upgrade parts sans one thrust washer in the stock build.

 

[brillmtb]

Yes, I have a 48re. Now you guys got me thinking of replacing my TC (triple vs single), adding the thrust washer upgrade then the "plate", perhaps the VB and perhaps the input shaft. I already did the solenoids at 150K. Just for my understanding how does my stock TC work in stock configuration. When does it lock up, stall speed, as I hear that a reduced stall speed is good. I have a 10K lbs 5th wheel and dont drive as easy as I should. If I did this perhaps I would have peace of mind when I go out in the backcountry towing like I did with my son last week. Seeing that transmission fluid under my truck got me concerned. The tow bill from where I was would probably go a long way to pay for this set up.

Does anyone know of someone in the Reno area. I will ask my friend who is a mechanic at the dodge dealership as well.

 

[brillmtb]

Since I am towing occasionally but want a sound system can I get some recommendations on a TC upgrade. Also, if I go with an exhaust brake which one, Pac or ??? for my 03

 

[cerberusiam]

The stock TC has a flash stal around 2100 rpms and full brake stall around 2400 rpms with stock power, stall speeds on any TC is going to be dependent on TQ input. The efficiency is the real problem at 70% in fluid coupling. Lockup is clutch size is just enough for stock power and where they attempt to compensate for the slop in the rest of it.

Compare this to a TC that is the efficiency range of 86-88% with a flash stall of 1600 and a full brake stall of around 2000 rpms. A LOT more power is now transferred to the wheels in fluid coupling with much less throttle. Tuning with a Smarty puts the TQ peak at around 2000-2100 rpms, right where the TC is hooking up in fluid coupling. That gives TC perofrmance matched to engine power curves which yields the efficiency and driveability. Since the TC is now transferring more power in fluid coupling the TQ rise when the TC clutch locks is no where near as high so the clutch does not need to be as large to handle it. Lockup will actually happen quite a bit sooner beacuse it is controlled by throttle position, speed, and engine load. More speed, less throttle lower load equates to quicker lockup and better power transfer.

The down side to more power transferred thru the trans at lower rpms is it moves the stress points to the forward and direct clutch packs. Stcok pressures at the lower rpms are not adequate to handle the TQ, the clutch disks are adequate but part of the foumula for holding power is pressure, pressure x area = holding power. Now you have to modify the apply pressure curves to compensate for mor epower sooner in the rpm range, a shift kit is integral to making everyhting work correctly without destroying the transmission. Luckily, shift kits and the small pieces need to enhance the trans are relatively cheap and easy to install.

 

[JJPage]

For piece of mind and a trouble free trans, get all your components from the same builder/supplier, do not try to mix and match...

XYZ Triple disc TC may not play well with Double XD Valve body, and Super Clutch pack lining material will disintegrate with the low line pressure Double XD Valve body produced. Shift points all off, will not shift up properly, you get my drift?

Everyone will blame the other's product, eliminate that scenario from the start. Jess

 

[brillmtb]

The stock TC has a flash stal around 2100 rpms and full brake stall around 2400 rpms with stock power, stall speeds on any TC is going to be dependent on TQ input. The efficiency is the real problem at 70% in fluid coupling. Lockup is clutch size is just enough for stock power and where they attempt to compensate for the slop in the rest of it.

Compare this to a TC that is the efficiency range of 86-88% with a flash stall of 1600 and a full brake stall of around 2000 rpms. A LOT more power is now transferred to the wheels in fluid coupling with much less throttle. Tuning with a Smarty puts the TQ peak at around 2000-2100 rpms, right where the TC is hooking up in fluid coupling. That gives TC perofrmance matched to engine power curves which yields the efficiency and driveability. Since the TC is now transferring more power in fluid coupling the TQ rise when the TC clutch locks is no where near as high so the clutch does not need to be as large to handle it. Lockup will actually happen quite a bit sooner beacuse it is controlled by throttle position, speed, and engine load. More speed, less throttle lower load equates to quicker lockup and better power transfer.

The down side to more power transferred thru the trans at lower rpms is it moves the stress points to the forward and direct clutch packs. Stcok pressures at the lower rpms are not adequate to handle the TQ, the clutch disks are adequate but part of the foumula for holding power is pressure, pressure x area = holding power. Now you have to modify the apply pressure curves to compensate for mor epower sooner in the rpm range, a shift kit is integral to making everyhting work correctly without destroying the transmission. Luckily, shift kits and the small pieces need to enhance the trans are relatively cheap and easy to install.

So, I have a smarty jr and always wondered what it was doing. Given this and that I would like a reasonable approach to a 2003 with 180K that I would like to have around but reliable for another 80-100K what parts would you replace in my stock transmission to get it to where you would be happy.

I assume TC, billet plate, new input shart, ? VB replacement but who, anything else. If I am going to tear this down I would like to do it right the first time. Thanks

 

[JJPage]

Call Goerend, that would be my 1st choice today.