Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What did I screw up? Opinions please!!!!

[arlan]

Hey guys,



I posted a couple of day ago about my shorting the B+ connection on my generator. I think I fried my ECM but don't know. I have gotten some information here on this forum and it seems that Dodge wants $1600 for the part. I found it online a allchryslerparts.com for $560.



My symptoms are... . Batteries are quickly drained with truck just sitting, does not charge, instrument cluster has RPM only, odometer does not register miles and is flashing, I have only 2nd and 3rd gear, A/C is not cold and a bunch of warning lights are on. There may be other stuff wrong that I have not discovered yet.



If I buy a OBD code reader would it tell me if the ecm is the problem? If I buy and ecm online will it have to be flashed for my truck? I can buy the correct year and transmission federal emmisions model ecm.



I hate like hell to buy anything from the *******, but I don't want to just start throwing parts at my old truck without knowing what the problem is.



All the fuses, fuseable links, moduals and relays check good.



Any opinions?

Arlan

 

[Jdonoghue]

I would get a wiring diagram and check for fusible links and such first. If it IS a module problem, it will be the PCM, the box on the firewall passenger side of the truck. That module controls the charging system and a ton of other things.

The ECM is located on the engine block, driver side, and if it was fried you would not be able to get the engine started at all.

 

[arlan]

Cool... . I was thinking that the box on the firewall was the ECM. Maybe I am not as screwed as I thought. Will a code reader tell me anything. Of all the lights I have going on the instrument cluster there is not check engine light.

 

[arlan]

I was just reading my shop manual and it say that one of the PCM outputs are the data link connection for the obd scan tool. I am thinking if it is the pcm the scan tool will not work.

 

[Mad Bomber]

I did this as well when doing a install on ATS manifold. I only fried the biggest fuse in the PDC I belive it's a 140A and only at the dealer BUT it was only about 6 bucks

 

[FourBarR]

If your batteries are drained just sitting you have some kind of current drain. Disconnect the negative terminal from one of the batteries ,connect a meter between the battery post and the disconnected cable see what kind of draw you are getting. If it shows a draw leave the meater connected and start pulling fuses until you find the one that stoppes the draw. That may lead you to your problem. Hope this is of some help. Electrical problems suck.

 

[nutter3]

arlan,
no need to purchase a code reader, just drive to almost any auto parts store. they will read your codes for free. also you can check for codes by cycling the key 3 times and looking at you odometer.

 

[arlan]

If your batteries are drained just sitting you have some kind of current drain. Electrical problems suck.

Yeah I know I have a drain. I am thinking it is the PCM. To me that is about all that make sense. All the things that are not working on my truck are controlled by the PCM.



Thanks

Arlan

 

[arlan]

no need to purchase a code reader, just drive to almost any auto parts store. they will read your codes for free. also you can check for codes by cycling the key 3 times and looking at you odometer.

Thanks,



I knew that Autozone would read the codes for me. The problem is I am kind of out in the sticks where I live and am a bit apprehensive about a 60 mile trip down the interstate with my truck the way it is. Also, the truck is a 98. 5 and I can't read codes by cycling the key. Even if I could I am not sure that would work as the odometer is flashing and won't even roll over.



Arlan

 

[damar]

TSB 08-23-00



Try the above link. It has info where to look if you have shorted the B+ post. Also it lists the part number to get the rubber boot to put on the post so you won't short it again. Hope this helps. I put one on my 1998,5 years ago just to eliminate this problem.

 

[John - K5AWO]

It sure ain't no fun to short out that positive post on the alternator... .

Been there, done that... . Lucky, only the 140A fuse for my truck.


Removing only one (1) negative battery wire is not going to help with measuring current flow, as the other battery is still in circuit. Remove both negative leads, leave one wrapped up in a rag or something. Then measure the current flow in one negative lead only.

Now your fuse popping test will show you what circuits are pulling the current with the key off.

 

[Stefan Kondolay]

What did i do wrong

Arlan, Bill said as stated above , it is most likeley your 140 amp fuse that is located on the drivers side fender well in your power distribution box . Most peope miss this fuse because it does not look like a normal fuse. It is bolted down where the power leads come into to power distribution box . You can call Bill if you need a hand he will put your finger on it.

 

[arlan]

Bill said as stated above , it is most likeley your 140 amp fuse.

Hey Stefan,



Long time no see, or talk. I saw you had a reply and was expecting something helpful. I am taking it into Dodge tommorrow. It has to be PCM. I had a previous post that states everything I checked and the 140 amp fuse was the first.



Dodge wants $130 to diagonis it and a remanufactured PCM is $550 the first charge is abdorbed in the total. I think the programing is about the first cost also.



The truck runs the same with or without the PCM.



I had another post explaining as I said above. Look here if you want.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ion-1998-5-2002/192068-shorted-generator.html



Put my finger on it my ***. Tell Bill he's a bad boy to give me sooo much credit.



Also tell him the transmission is holding up great. I think I went around 20,000 miles before I serviced it. There was all most ZERO band material in the pan or on the magnet. Cool, eh?



Stay warm up there,

Arlan



PS I might call Bill just to yell at him#@$%!

 

[Stefan Kondolay]

What did i screw up

Hey , i just typed what he said. He was in briefly and read your post but i guess he did not see your previous one. Call him if you need a hand. I am not repeating what he said when he saw 20,000 between services.

 

[arlan]

Stefan,



I just checked my records and the mileage was 16,400 between services. I didn't mention before that they were easy miles. I haven't been doing much towing at all.



Arlan

 

[paulb]

Stefan,



I just checked my records and the mileage was 16,400 between services. I didn't mention before that they were easy miles. I haven't been doing much towing at all.



Arlan

Mine are all easy miles too... I don't run it WOT for more then a 1/4 mile at a time. :-laf



Paul