Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What Fuel Plate?

[RockSaw]

I know this has been answered before, but I tried the search engine and couldn't find what I needed so here goes. My father-in-law has a bone stock '94 R3500 4x2 that needs a little more punch for occasional pulling. I want to know what's the best plate to use without having to mount extra gauges and run bigger exhaust. Hopefully someone out there with a similar set up will give me their .02.

 

[fox]

Talk to TST.
You should have at least a EGT if you add fuel.

But, first install a 3k gov spring kit. He will LOVE it.
Auto trans or 5 speed?

 

[fox]

Talk to TST.
You should have at least a EGT if you add fuel.

But, first install a 3k gov spring kit. He will LOVE it.
Auto trans or 5 speed?

 

[RockSaw]

Auto. I built it about a year ago and put in a billet converter.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

#8 is pretty safe, about 210 HP, #6 is the "standard" upgrade, 230 HP, 605 ft lb rated.

 

[JMcCoy]

x2 on both the #8 plate and GSK. I did the 3k GSK and that probably made more of a difference than my plate. It can also help keep the EGTs down, since you can run a higher rpm while towing up hill or passing. I have a #6 plate and I really have to try to get my egts up, but I also have an intake and exhaust. I know you said you didn't want to do exhaust, but it may not be a bad idea to check the manifold for shrinkage.

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I've never owned an unmodified Cummins Dodge, but I test-drove a new stock 2500 with manual trans when the 93s came out. How ANYONE drives one without a governor kit, I don't know.

How much weight will your father-in-law be hauling occasionally? With the mods in my sig, and fairly flat ground (I-95, FL to VA), I've hauled maybe 5000 lb total trailer weight with another 1000 in the bed, and had to drive like an idiot to get temps into the yellow on my EGT gauge. So someone driving not like an idiot should be able to haul the same load in the green and never need the gauge at all.

And my truck has plenty of punch, IMHO.

kevin

 

[BDaugherty]

Call TST. Joe is most likely right on the money about the #8. Also, the 3k gsk kit will be a big help by letting the engine rev all the way to the shift point. Get an EGT gauge for safety. One of the EGT/boost combo gauges from Geno's would be an economical way to go...yes I read that you don't want to add gauges, just my .02.
Also, fill out your profile so we can see what you're close to. Might be a well known vender or shop in the area.

 

[RockSaw]

Thanks for all the replies, that's exactly what I was looking for. I'll have to get him set up with one. Great site by the way!

 

[jessekai]

well first of put a pyro in no matter what.then in my opinion the only one to go with is the 10 plate. i had a 8 in my 95 for years and one day my buddy convinced me to regrind it to a 10(he worked for piers so not to tough for him) and wow what a diff it made. by the paper it does not make as much power but from the drivers seat its the only way to go. way more punch and lower egt's. just my two cents. oh and 3kgsk at least should be in every 12v or a 4k if you like to have fun

 

[Bob4x4]

The 10 plate in an otherwise stock 94//95 truck is not the way to go

 

[CRodi]

If you're looking for an alternative, DDP makes an adjustable(25-140HP) plate. Don't know if that is enough for you, but it gives you a bit of wiggle room for experimentation.

 

[Bob4x4]

Lol all plates are adjustable

 

[jessekai]

bob4x4 that has not been my experience. a am curious why you say that? i ran an 8 for about 5 years on a 95 with exhaust and bhaf and 3kgsk and when i switched to the 10 profile it was like a whole new truck. and if your planning on doing anything with a plate you should be opening up the exhaust and intake first to let the thing breathe IMO

 

[Bob4x4]

Remember I said stock.....the gsk changes how the arm follows the cam

 

[CRodi]

Lol all plates are adjustable

Ok. Just learned something today.

Thanks

 

[RockSaw]

Thanks for the replys guys. I ended up with a #8 plate. Just need to find a little spare time to get it installed, so maybe this time next year.

 

[jessekai]

thank bob4X4 i was not trying to be an *** we are all learning every day. rocksaw while you have the plate out is a great time todo gov springs you can do them right through the top of the pump with the plate out. they are probably the best single upgrade for your dollar you can do to these trucks. at least on the standards i don't now about the autos? someone else want to weight in on that one. and after a few years and you get the itch for more go just pull the 8 out take your die grinder to it and presto you can have a 10 thats how it went my fist time around

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Changing governor springs is not just a pop them out an slam in new ones process. Shims under the idle springs can be pulled up by the magnetic stick or oil film, then fall into the governor housing. Sometimes it is hard to get a good idle and off idle smoothness since the stock setup uses a multi part seat so the springs "come in" one at a time, while the aftermarket seat is one piece, adding stiffness around 1400-1700 rpm that you don't want. I have given some pumps more rpm by shimming the inner springs under the retainer. Cheaper, easier, less chance of a problem with "lost" parts, same smoothness to engine response.

 

[RockSaw]

I don't think my pops will go for it. I had to buy the fuel plate for him cause I got tired of borrowing his dually and not having enough get up and go . I'm planning a 5.9 swap into a little D-100 I've been building and it will get gov springs (or shims... thanks for the tip Joe) for sure. Thanks again for all the info.

By the way, how thick were the shims you added and what final RPM did you end up with Joe?