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what gauges do you really need?

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Ok the 2003s are ISBe's right??

Rear Height too High

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These are my lst two questions and then I promise to be quiet .



First: What gauges do I really need to have to take the best care of my CTD? I hear talk about boost psi, and egt gauges. I also hear about some guy's putting feul psi guages before and after thier fuel filter. Would it be wise to get all of these ? Or are some more important than others?



Second: How important is it to get a bypass oil filter? Also which model would best be suited for 2003 HO?



Thanks to all of you for your expertise and for your patience!!
 
None of these are an absolute necessity on a stock truck.



If you plan on power upgrades you would want a boost gauge and a pyrometer. I plan on adding a pyrometer simply because I tow heavy. I also like to have and oil temp gauge to monitor the trans and diff temps.



Fuel pressure, I don't think anyone knows for sure, yet. The '03s have a new lift pump and I haven't heard of any problems to date, but these trucks haven't been on the road long. Time will tell. Some people are adding FP gauges for piece of mind and others because "that's the way we've alwats done it. " Again, with power modifications involve extra fueling, it wouldn't hurt to monitor FP. The reason may put FP gauges pre and post filter is it gives an indication of the filters restriction. The first gauge measures pump pressure( giving an indication of your lift pumps general health )and the second indicates the pressure reaching the fuel pump after going through the filter.



If you perform regular oil and filter changes using a good oil and filter a by-pass is not a necessity. It can't hurt, but it is expensive. If I recall the Amsoil kit and filter will set you back about $200. and a filter will cost you about $22. per change in addition to the regular filter and it will require about 2 extra qts of oil per change. It is however a necessity if you plan on going the analysis and extended oil change interval route. I have one and it works well, but I've known CTDs to go400K+ on regular oil and filter changes and fossil oil.



Fireman
 
Originally posted by Fireman

... It is however a necessity if you plan on going the analysis and extended oil change interval route...



Fireman



OK, I am new to this whole diesel thing. What is the "analysis" you mentioned?



Thanks,

Nate :)
 
You can get oil analysis done by http://www.blackstone-labs.com/index.html or Cummins ( think you can get the kit from Geno's Garage). They will analyze your sample and determine how your engine is wearing by the presence of various metals. They will also look for contaminants such as antifreeze or fuel.



I had egt and boost gauges on both my previous CTD's. I do not and probably will not have them on this truck. I will agree with Fireman and say that I don't think they are necessary on a stock truck. Regular fluid and filter changes, in my opinion, are paramount to the longevity of any engine. I don't think a second oil filter is necessary if you perform normal maintenance. Just my opinion.



Dean
 
Nate,



Some guys use synthetics and by-pass filters, and at regular intervals they change the filters, take an oil sample, and add enough oil to replinish what was lost in the filters. They then have the sample analysed, and as long as the analaysis report looks good they keep running the same oil. Some guys have gone tens of thousands of miles between oil changes. It takes a good while to see a return, because of the cost of the analysis. It only costs a little more to change the oil and filter on a regular basis using a good fossil oil. That's it in a nut shell, if you have further intrest, follow the link Dean Upson posted and do some research.



Fireman
 
Just one more thought about analysis. Doing it near the first oil change could identify a manufacturing defect that should be addressed. Doing it again near the end of the warranty period could find a signficant problem before it becomes your responsiblity. It is not just to extend the oil change interval.
 
Easier starting & mileage

On our '99 I put synthetics all-around: diff's, auto transmission, transfer case and engine. No proof but I did get more miles per tank. In the one cold winter we had and when I was hunting and no plug-in for the block heater, it started without any problems... unlike when I had dino in it.



At the next regular oil change I installed the dual by-pass remote filter and noticed the oil on the dip stick was clear with some black for 3 to 4 thousand miles... Then black with some clear to about 7000 miles. With dino or synthetic the oil was black about 5 minutes after the oil change.



Is it expensive? yes. But so is 10 to 12 quarts of any oil every few thousand or so miles.



Would I do it again? Absolutely, as soon as I can get about 15K to 20K miles on the odometer and find a good place for it.



doc
 
I have noticed that the oil stays cleaner for much longer in my '03. In the 94 and 98. 5 the oil was dirty by the time I got to the end of the driveway.



Dean
 
DBVZ,



You make a very good point, I hadn't considered that before.



VietDoc,



I used synthetics through out my last truck also. I also noticed an improvement in fuel economy, not much, just enough to be noticed. I thought that spoke volumes about the lubrication qualities of synthetics. I also liked the fact that I could extend the service interval, I wasn't constantly changing the oil and it offset the higher cost of the synthetics.



I didn't have a by-pass on my old truck, but I recently added one to the '03 and it is amazing how clean the oil looks after a couple of thousand miles. And I am still using fossil oil. I often question the need for things like by-pass filters, Mag Hytec diff covers, synthetic oil etc, they may not be necessities but they certainly won't do any harm. If you have the $$ and it won't hurt your truck, knock yourself out.



That's what I say,

Fireman
 
DBVZ,

you also asked about gauges... I am a greenie when it comes to gauges... and there are some good answers above, but thought I would add my $0. 02 worth.



I looked at many factors and problems of the CTD... I am not bombing the engine other than a better airfilter (more flow) and a 4 inch exhaust. But I will be pulling heavy! I have an auto transmission and had a lift pump problem on my '99. Here is what I decided:



1) EGT's to make sure if I pull a big hill I don't burn the truck up. Also before I shutdown the truck I can make sure I have cooled down the turbo & engine to a safe level.



2) Automatic Transmission tempurature to monitor the heat of the oil... if it gets too hot its toast and so is your transmission.



3) Fuel Pressure post filter & pump. This is my peace of mind guage... The lift pump is either the same or a little different than the earlier models. The injector pump is different. It doesn't require the amount of lubrication the old one did... . But I am still concerned... I had a lift pump fail on a saturday, truck towed to dealer monday, repaired monday and get it back on tue morning. Then the injector pump failed on the following saturday, by monday afternoon the dealer diagnosed the failed item and ordered it. it took 2 or 3 days to get it and another 1. 5 days to install:mad: If i were stranded in the middle of some state and needed to be someplace else I'd be #@$%! if I had to wait a week or more to get the truck going.

So I am going to monitor the lift pump and filter. if the pressur falls I can change the filter or get a lift pump and change it on my schedule and not wait for a breakdown to find out it was a problem.



doc:cool:
 
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