Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What I've Gleened from the Forums to Add Power

[Valkyrie99]

I just bought a 26 ft Toy Hauler and really feel the need to bump up the power in my '99. It is basically stock except for a VA. The Torque converter is a BD and I installed a DTT valve body several years ago. Gauges include

Boost, EGT, Trans temp



OK from searching the forums here is what I figure is a good way to go in BomBing my truck without going overboard on cost.



1. 4 in exhaust, a must



2. Smarty



3. Jammer 2s or 3s



4. Exhaust brake



OR a Banks Kit? (Please no Banks Flaming, although honesty would be appreciated)



Any other thoughts? There is a lot of info out there and this forum has always been the best way to cut through the crap.



Thanks,

 

[darkhorse]

I just bought a 26 ft Toy Hauler and really feel the need to bump up the power in my '99. It is basically stock except for a VA. The Torque converter is a BD and I installed a DTT valve body several years ago. Gauges include

Boost, EGT, Trans temp



OK from searching the forums here is what I figure is a good way to go in BomBing my truck without going overboard on cost.



1. 4 in exhaust, a must



2. Smarty



3. Jammer 2s or 3s



4. Exhaust brake



OR a Banks Kit? (Please no Banks Flaming, although honesty would be appreciated)



Any other thoughts? There is a lot of info out there and this forum has always been the best way to cut through the crap.



Thanks,

That's a good list. I would also add a low restriction air filter of some sort. Formula 1's Mach series EDM injectors are worth considering. In my opinion, the best part of the Banks kit is the Banks Brake. Their 4" exhaust is a quality set up but you can save some bucks going aluminized steel. If you have an HY 35 turbo, you are at its limits. A used HX 35 can often be found in the classifieds & it is an improvement.

 

[Valkyrie99]

Thanks for the info.



I think I will make the changes in stages. Probably the exhaust and brake first, then the injectors and see how it all works with the old VA before going to the Smarty. I'll check into the Mach injectors... ... ... ... ...

 

[NoSeeUm]

I started with the Banks Exhaust Brake and the Banks Monster Exhaust. I will say that the Banks stuff is top notch. Every thing went together exactly how the detailed installation instructions said it would. The Banks exhaust did have some downsides.



The system that I got (2003) had the dreaded 2000 RPM DRONE . For my truck, that occured at 65-70 MPH. Since then I have added a second muffler to get rid of the drone. The exhaust tip also seems to be pitting, and I find that annoying. If I had to do it again, I would just probably get an off the shelf exhaust system. There are allot out there and mostly likely cheaper than Banks.



I still have the exhaust brake, use it everytime I drive the truck (empty or loaded) and love it. There are other exhaust brake systems and also probably cheaper than Banks. If you intend to some day change your turbo for a larger one, get a non turbo mounted brake. They are also called remote or in-line brakes. Doing this will increase the number of turbo's you can install as often the turbo will have a non stock outlet port that won't work with turbo mounted brakes.



After you get the Smarty, you might find that it will be all you need. Try that first. I had the Banks Stinger performance tuner. I removed it after getting the Smarty.



If you have not done so yet, also install a fuel pressure gauge.



If you are still running the stock HY35 turbo (automatic), consider finding a used HX35 (manual) and installing it.



Jim

 

[darkhorse]

I started with the Banks Exhaust Brake and the Banks Monster Exhaust

The system that I got (2003) had the dreaded 2000 RPM DRONE .



I'm curious about your drone. My straight piped ETC has an annoying drone closer to 12-1400 rpm, but my Banks exhaust had none. Do you have the newer polished stainless "Monster Muffler"?

 

[McLaughlin]

I just bought a 26 ft Toy Hauler and really feel the need to bump up the power in my '99. It is basically stock except for a VA. The Torque converter is a BD and I installed a DTT valve body several years ago. Gauges include

Boost, EGT, Trans temp



OK from searching the forums here is what I figure is a good way to go in BomBing my truck without going overboard on cost.



1. 4 in exhaust, a must



2. Smarty



3. Jammer 2s or 3s



4. Exhaust brake



OR a Banks Kit? (Please no Banks Flaming, although honesty would be appreciated)



Any other thoughts? There is a lot of info out there and this forum has always been the best way to cut through the crap.



Thanks,

I didn't see any significant power increase from the 4 in exhaust I had installed. I put the exhaust in at the same time as I put on a exhaust manifold and thought I'd have seen more power improvement. For your year truck, I'd go with a electronic box first, then injectors for additional power. I can't talk to the turbo replacement because I haven't replaced mine but NoSeeUm's suggestion about the exhaust brake is right on; If you think you might replace the turbo go with an inline brake. If you are set on getting a 4in exhaust, you also might want to put in the exhaust brake (regardless of which style you put in) at the same time. It would save some extra work since you would be working on the exhaust anyhow. Also, as someone suggested, you might want to put in a fuel pressure gauge early. There has been a lot of discussion regarding full pressure problems on the 24 valves and the effect on the injector pumps.

 

[DLausche]

Your list is a good one. If you are stock, then you have an HX35 so should be good for a few more mild upgrades. The 4" exhaust is a must. I got mine from Rip and couldn't be happier. No drone at all and the cost was very reasonable. I have DD Jammer 3's and mostly tow (30' TT) with the comp on level 1 only and the smarty set back to stock. This puts me close to max EGT's on the really steep upgrades but is easily manageable. Smarty is WAY fun but I don't use it when towing. I think you can get better bang for your $ going other than Banks stuff. I agree with the others on getting an inline exhaust brake if you do end up going that route. I have an ATS lockup controller that keeps the torque converter locked and this appeared to help on the downgrades in the black hills even tho I don't have an exhaust brake.



Adding a fuel pressure gauge is an absolute MUST. I've forgotten how many lift pumps I've replaced now. Must be 6+...



-Deon

 

[DLausche]

I should add that if you are looking for towing power, then I would look first to bumping your injectors rather than electronic boxes. I'm not sure how your VA box adds power but I've read warnings about using any box that adds timing when towing due to massively increased cylinder pressures while towing and the resulting blown head gaskets. This is why I leave my Comp on level 1 only when towing. I don't know why, but for some reason, my rig runs cooler (EGTs) on comp 1x3 setting than with it off completely.

 

[NoSeeUm]

I started with the Banks Exhaust Brake and the Banks Monster Exhaust

The system that I got (2003) had the dreaded 2000 RPM DRONE .



I'm curious about your drone. My straight piped ETC has an annoying drone closer to 12-1400 rpm, but my Banks exhaust had none. Do you have the newer polished stainless "Monster Muffler"?

I am not sure which muffler exactly, but I do believe that it is SS. It is a monster. I bought the kit directly from Banks in 2004 (I think). The exhaust tone was throaty and "Big Rig'ish" sounding. I just could not handle the drone at highway speeds.



Jim

 

[NoSeeUm]

Your list is a good one. If you are stock, then you have an HX35 so should be good for a few more mild upgrades. The 4" exhaust is a must. I got mine from Rip and couldn't be happier. No drone at all and the cost was very reasonable.

{snip}-Deon

His signature says that the truck is a automatic = HY35 if still stock.



Keep in mind that a 4 inch exhaust gains no Hp. It just allows more Hp by dropping exhaust back pressure and hence EGT. Kind of like when you get a new clutch installed (torque converter), no new Hp but allows new Hp.



Jim

 

[Boondocker]

good timing

I should add that if you are looking for towing power, then I would look first to bumping your injectors rather than electronic boxes. I'm not sure how your VA box adds power but I've read warnings about using any box that adds timing when towing due to massively increased cylinder pressures while towing and the resulting blown head gaskets. This is why I leave my Comp on level 1 only when towing. I don't know why, but for some reason, my rig runs cooler (EGTs) on comp 1x3 setting than with it off completely.

Deon,



The Edge Comp adds timing. Some timing advance will reduce EGT, my experience - around 50*. The timing advance is pretty much a constant, regardless of the Comp's setting. What you don't want to do is advance timing twice by stacking boxes. Comp + VA would be bad news. The Smarty, on the hand, offers non-timing programs to be compatible with timing/fueling boxes like the Comp. The Smarty fuel saver program has "extra advanced" timing. The owner's manual clearly warns against towing while running the fuel saver program.



I didn't mean to digress to a Smarty discussion. Any fueling you add will quickly outrun your HY35 turbo under towing loads. I second the inline exhaust brake idea. Now that I'm contemplating a bigger turbo, my only option is a hybrid, unless I dump my elbow mounted exhaust brake. Oh well, who knew adding power would be this much fun :-laf



Neil

 

[DLausche]

99's with an automatic are HX35 and not HY35. I am quite certain about this. I think the HY35's started with autos only in 01, possibly in 2000.



-Deon

 

[DLausche]

The Edge Comp adds timing. Some timing advance will reduce EGT, my experience - around 50*.

Hi Neil. That was my theory on why the EGTs were down with the Comp on, but was not sure. Thanks for confirming for me. I've only tried Smarty with Comp on 5x5 once (Smarty on #8). The pyrometer pegged in 3 seconds.



-Deon

 

[darkhorse]

I am not sure which muffler exactly, but I do believe that it is SS. It is a monster. I bought the kit directly from Banks in 2004 (I think). The exhaust tone was throaty and "Big Rig'ish" sounding. I just could not handle the drone at highway speeds.



Jim

The newer muffler has the words "Monster Muffler" embossed right on the side. Strange yours droned & mine did not.

 

[Valkyrie99]

In answer to a few questions... ... ... .



I do have an HX35, checked just to be sure yesterday.



I also called Banks this morning and asked about the DRONE. The guy I talked to said it was the first he had heard of it. However he did say that if it did occur that by repositioning the muffler forward or back slightly the drone would go away or possibly change. You will be changing the length of the pipe and the resonant point. Makes sense.



I believe the VA does add timing but I don't know how much. It came with the truck.



After the engine brake and 4" exhaust, I plan to install the larger injectors. Those are probably a month away.



Thank for all the input... ... ... ...

 

[GOT-Torque]

If you don't want to replace the injection pump I would install a fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on your liftpump. Also, relocating the lift pump to the frame rail via a vulcan big line kit will not only get rid of all the restricting banjo fittings but also make it possible to change your liftpump in less than 15 minutes from under the truck.