Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) what % of 53 block's are trouble?

[paulsmith]

It looks as if my Father and I are picking up a 99 Diesel Ram with 99k that we won on eBay. Does anyone know how common these 53 blocks are, and what the percentage of failure rates might be?



We're gonna look this truck up and down before we accept it. Can someone give me a checklist to go over?



Comments are greatly appreciated!



Paul

 

[DSpencer]

I have 113 thousand on my lightly bombed truck and I pull only a bass boat but I have not had a problem yet. From what I have read, the 53's are a problem on a small number of trucks. Small number but a big problem if it happens.

 

[ctd8999]

53 Block

I'm right at 100% for the failure rate own 1 and it cracked. LOL Thanks Steve B.

 

[paulsmith]

As far as I know so far, this truck is 100% stock, and I'm sure my Father will keep it that way. No hot rodding or heavy hauling... probably will only see a small car trailer once in a while.



I'm gonna take a venture and guess that the failures occur with trucks modified for more power?

 

[DFerverda]

Hi Paul

try this link. http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm#NewInformation

I got it off a search here. My 98. 5 has the 53 and 167k on the clock . Still tickin.

Where do you have to go to get the truck? Good luck

Dirk

 

[Forrest Nearing]

stock or 700hp doesn't matter... what matters is the casting... and there are visible casting flaws on the crack-prone blocks that will tell you if you've got a timebomb on your hands



piers posted some pics a while back of the crack-prone blocks' identifying marks.



Forrest

 

[paulsmith]

Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.



Dirk... my Father and I are heading to Topeka...

 

[macdaddy]

Get some WD-40 spray a generous amount where the crack is likely to develope and rub your fingers on the area. I hear if it feels porous you may want to look elsewhere. If it feels smooth, it may have been a better cast.



Mine was smooth but I still decided to launch it :{. I sure still miss the sound of that 2nd genner rattling it's way to lift pump heaven.



Mac

 

[tractorface]

A lot of 53 owners without problems like to keep our. . er... thier mouth's shut. Bad Karma otherwise

 

[hensign]

I read somewhere that cummins believes the cracks are occuring in about 5% of the motors. All I know is Lock and stich is selling 2 repair kits per week, and have packaged up a specific kit in a pretty box stating "Cummins 5. 9l repair kit". 500 miles and no tracking yet... ... ... .

 

[2-ND TIME]

leaker 53

mine has been leaking since new this is the third problem with the junk I bought.

 

[Charliegeis]

I just found out I have one of the infamous 53 blocks

After reading all the threads I crawled under my 99 and sure enough it has the 53 block. I have 103k miles on it and haven't seen any sign of a leak yet. I bought this truck and a new camper in '99 and figured it would outlast my desire to pull a camper. I'm 74 years old and figure I might be good for another 5 years and a 100k of camping. Hopefully the truck makes it.

 

[JBAndersen]

Since all 53's crack at the same place, how about adding material on the outside of the block at that particular area with the correct rods and in the correct pattern BEFORE it cracks? Reinforcing cast iron/steel in this way is a known procedure in heavy industry.

 

[hensign]

Figured I would put this here... ... ... I have traded in my 99 for a spiffy new 05 "the deal" was just too good.



This will be my last chapter in my 53 block cracking digest.

I put about 6000 miles on after doing the "Lock and stitch repair" I did it myself, if you are handy and good with a drill it can be done by yourself. I never had my leak reoccur, no loss of coolant in all those miles. About 2000 with a 10k lb trailer in tow at times pushed very hard. I did have an overheating problem but it was related to the smashed condensor fins, 3. 55 gears and 80+ MPH through the mountains in 100 degree weather with the AC on plus the trailer. If I backed it off to 65 it was fine but then again I was running better than 300hp with a serious lack of air flow.



Doing a preemptive repair is a great idea but how and why. Yes all of the 53 block cracks are occurring on the right rear of the motor(except for a few on the left rear). But who knows if yours will crack. Mine was cracked for 10,000 miles that I know of with a very small amount of coolant loss.



Since the cracks occur because of the square casting on the inside of the block wouldnt it be better to pull the pan and miter that edge????



I would have to think it would just be easier to either plan on doing the repair yourself or finding somebody local who can do it, keep the number of L&S on hand, and check your coolant at fuel fill ups.

 

[dsather]

Since all 53's crack at the same place, how about adding material on the outside of the block at that particular area with the correct rods and in the correct pattern BEFORE it cracks? Reinforcing cast iron/steel in this way is a known procedure in heavy industry.

Well, this is the way I had hoped to go a couple of years ago. I contacted the folks at JB weld and they basically said go for it. I was discouraged however by a few people on here who said they could not get the stuff to bond to the block for very long because of the vibration. I was thinking of a good cleaning and or etching and smearing the stuff along the effected area on the side of the block.



If you have any other ideas on what to use, i'd be really interested in what they are as a little prevention is worth several tons of cure!!



Dennis

 

[DavidC]

Well, this is the way I had hoped to go a couple of years ago. I contacted the folks at JB weld and they basically said go for it. I was discouraged however by a few people on here who said they could not get the stuff to bond to the block for very long because of the vibration. I was thinking of a good cleaning and or etching and smearing the stuff along the effected area on the side of the block.



If you have any other ideas on what to use, i'd be really interested in what they are as a little prevention is worth several tons of cure!!



Dennis

I did the JB weld after the crack. Used a die grinder on the block about 1" on each side and in front/back. Lasted less than 2 weeks. Luckily the 56 block showed up at that time. Total cost at that time was about 3k.



Dave

 

[JBAndersen]

Dennis,



I'm thinking of welding on the block with a nickel based rod. It should be possible to weld small seams in the correct pattern and build thicknes on the area that is too thin on the 53's. Ofcourse this does not take away the edge and shape on the inside of the block that starts the crack, but thicker material should be more resistant anyway. I will try a few contacts tomorrow and see if I can get the correct procedure for this, and also possible good reasons NOT to try this if any...



Jon