Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What preventative maintenence while truck is apart?

[JBlackwell]

Just doing a lot of searching back on headgaskets and such. Run across a thread about replacing the fuel lines and on thread about the pre-fuel filter. So I will be checking into those since I will have the motor apart for the new headgasket and tab the KDP.



What fuel line type and how big do I need?



Is there any other preventative maintenence I should check into while the motor is apart?

Here is what I have on the list so far:

Upper & Lower radiator hoses

Water pump

Have the head checked and cleaned at the machine shop

Install 60# springs for 4K GSK

Top end gasket kit from Cummins (what all comes in the kit?)

Tming cover kit from Cummins?

Crank seal

KDP tab





May also need to get valve stem seals cause I will probably have the machine shop remove the valves to check and have them do a valve job. Anyone know the part #?



Is there remotely anything else I may possibly need when I proceed with this project???



So far I have everything off the front and the timing cover is ready to come off. I also have the intake elbow, air box, turbo, exhaust manifold, rad. hoses, & heater hoses off. Spent about 2 1/2 hours time on all of that so far just lolly gagging around a little each night. So far, it has been pretty easy..... so far. LOL





I appreciate your help from you guys that help me. This thread will give me a peace of mind of what all I need without running into any obstacles when I go to put it all back together.



JD

 

[y-knot]

You seem to be doing a throe job, and have most of the important items covered. I would look real close at all 4 boots on the inter cooler system. The bottom ones are prone to rubbing thru, and if they are OEM, it is probably time for replacement. There are some every good aftermarket hoses available.

Check the throttle cable for wear, and the contacts on the starter. Good luck.

 

[JBlackwell]

Thanks for the heads-up. Will check and most likely replace. I plan on keeping this truck for a while, so a few more dollars spent on it will actually be cheaper in the long run for me.





Does anyone know if the push rods might need to be replaced? This has been on my mind also.



JD

 

[Forrest Nearing]

pushrods should be fine... I'd go ahead and roll them to check for straightness and look through them to make sure they're not coked up or anything.



Forrest

 

[DSiemens]

Valve stem seals will be included in the top end gasket kit. Also some sealing washers for the fuel system. See www.Fostertruck.com for good quality diesel fuel hose. Are you going to advance the timing or leave as is? Now would be a good time to install an aftermarket camshaft.



Dan

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

You might check your exhast manifold to see how much it has shrunk... . When I changed my headgasket ,I figured it was time to upgrade to the ATS 3- piece manifold. . Looks and performs much better... . Good time to change the drain hose on the turbo.

 

[Rhondasway]

I've got your cheapest helpful hint! Replace the O-ring on your radiator drain plug. They seem to shred easily, and it's very frustrating to be putting the last of your water in and have that dang thing start to drip... I've had it happen on both my trucks.

It's well worth the few cents!

 

[JBlackwell]

I appreciate the posts, this is some good helpful stuff.



I don't think I want to spend the money on a aftermarket cam or an ATS manifold right now. Luckily the truck has been untouched on the motor and the manifold is still in great shape... . except for the dang rust on the outside. I am spending a few extra dollars I came up with on a DD HX40... if the guy still has it.



Got a question, I want to go ahead and get the top end kit from Cummins this week so I can have the stem seals with the head when I take it to the machine shop. Question is if I get the . 020+ marine gasket in the kit and the head doesn't need to be shaved, can I run that . 020 gasket with that non-shaved head, or should I go ahead and shave it . 010? Also do I need anything special when I put a . 020+ gasket on a stock or . 010 shaved head?



Also, what can I do to dress up this ugly exhaust manifold? Is there a paint I can get at the parts store that will stay on there?



Keep the good info coming?

Justin

 

[Forrest Nearing]

Justin, we've had great luck with the Dupli-Color brand "high heat" ceramic paint available at Autozone... The black seems to hold up slightly better than the silver. The silver holds up really well, but it can try to flake on you and if you scratch it, it will.



it's rated for 1500* I believe. and unlike many high heat paints, it doesn't need to be cured immediately.



my HX40 is painted w/ the black, and it's held up very well. I usually use the silver on everything, but I didn't have any laying around at the time! LOL!



my buddy's twin turbo gasser has had the silver on all of his exhaust components and turbo housings for two years, and it still looks pretty darn good!



Forrest

 

[DSiemens]

When I changed the head gasket (water leak by thermostat) I went with a . 010 thou thicker. It lowered the compression some which was noticeable on the amount of smoke upon startup. Also exhaust smell was a little more "stingy" to the eyes and nose. It did not make the 95 Ram any more difficult to start, but it will allow me to run more boost. The aftermarket camshaft cleared up the exhaust. More boost is always welcome.

 

[Rhondasway]

I have the exhaust manifold off my '97 (over 200,000 miles on that one) on my '98 now. It spent an entire race season plus street driving (25,000 miles) there, with some extremely high temps (1700+ many many times) with no problems (knocking on wood ). The one thing we did to it is a little work on the bolt holes a couple years ago to give it a little play for the temps...

 

[JJW_ND]

Check the head close....

I think I read 210K on this motor. I would think you will find the head to be off at least . 003 - . 006. Especially around the fire rings and coolant passages. The low spots really show up when having the head machined. When I had the Tstat headgasket leak fixed it took . 008 to get (most) all the low spots out and head flat. I would have rather had the . 010 but ended up with the . 020. When we had some -30 and colder weather, I deliberately left it unplugged (during the daytime) to see how it would start. Started fine but smoked out the parking lot. Much more white smoke and stinky smoke but starts fine. No negative affect on mpg as I am getting the best I have since truck is new.



I think some pictures exist under my gallery from when I had my head work done.



jjw

ND

 

[JBlackwell]

Man, you guys are great. Every post you guys make has been helpful to me somehow.



I believe I am going to go with the . 020+ gasket with the kit. From what you guys and some other threads using the search button, I am expecting to shave the head no matter what and would probably end up shaving it . 010 to smooth everything up and then use the . 020+ gasket so I can have peace-of-mind when I up the boost.

I live in TX and at 400' elevation, so I should not have as much of a problem with the thicker gasket as some of you Northern guys I assume.



Keep the info coming,

Justin... or JD

 

[JBlackwell]

Alright, just called Cummins Southern Plains in Arlington, TX and priced a upper end gasket kit for the 'Ol Cummins and it was $143. 37 and came with the . 020 gasket (#3283339). Does that price sound right? I thought it would be a lot more. The guy I spoke to is faxing me a list to see what the kit consist of so I can be sure. Those valve stem seals are only $1. 08 a piece. Cheaper then I thought, might be my lucky day.





JD



Edit: Got the list, it says that it comes with stem seals (#3957912) but the guy said it comes separate from the kit and the stem seal part # is 3957913. Is that something different or what?



Also, what else may I need to get from Cummins that I may need?

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

1. New Cummins thermostat with 2 new rubber gaskets

2. Radiator pressure tested and cleaned

3. Leave water pump alone unless it is leaking; it is very easy to change later

4. New serpentine belt

5. New coolant hoses (not just radiator hoses) with new all stainless steel clamps

6. Check head bolts for proper length

7. New fuel filter



Have fun!



Trent

 

[DSiemens]

The gasket kit I got was in a cardboard box. Inside was the headgasket plus 2 brown envelopes. The stem seals were in one of them.