Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What ranges for guages?

[yupikram]

My truck is pretty much stock and i'm looking to purchase some guages. My question is what ranges do I want. I see 0-30, 0-60, 0-100 for fuel pressure and also for boost I see 0-30, 0-60, 0-80 and 0-100. Should I get a mechanical or electrical fuel pressure guage. What do I need for a stock vehicle. I'm not really planning on too much mods.

 

[darkhorse]

My truck is pretty much stock and i'm looking to purchase some guages. My question is what ranges do I want. I see 0-30, 0-60, 0-100 for fuel pressure and also for boost I see 0-30, 0-60, 0-80 and 0-100. Should I get a mechanical or electrical fuel pressure guage. What do I need for a stock vehicle.



I'm not really planning on too much mods.

For stock, 16 psi is all you need on a fuel pressure gauge & 30 psi for boost. There3 are pros & cons to both mechanical & electrical so that's a judgment call. Generally I think mechanical is more reliable than electrical for fuel pressure. I will say my Westach electrical combo boost/egt gauge has been flawless, but I've gotten some odd readings from the fuel pressure gauge. Even if you don't expect to do any mods, I'd recommend going with 30 psi on the fuel pressure & 50 psi on the boost. That will offer some room to play in the future.

 

[ERuhl]

I'd recommend going with 30 psi on the fuel pressure & 50 psi on the boost.

2nd that. I have 16psi fuel and 35psi boost gauges (see profile) and both are effectively "pegged" in normal use (15psi fuel and 32psi boost). If I had it to do over again I'd go with the ranges you list above. Now I get to look forward to swapping them out for the more appropriate ranges.

 

[NHelmer]

My choice was the autometer phantoms. I just like the white look. For the FP I agree with darkhorse. Besides, and I'm sure some will disagree, the VP44 doesn't like much more than 14-15psi. So why go over on the gauge. As far as mechanical or electric the choice is up to you. I have electric and will be replacing my sending unit before too long because I failed to run a snubber at first and the unit got mad. If you run electric don't wait buy a snubber!! Boost... well... . you say "I'm not planning on too many mods" but don't get too close to the edge, that slope is verrrryyy slippery. Myself I have a 0-35 because I said the same thing you did. Now if I go to a bigger turbo I will have to get a new gauge. However the smaller the range, the easier the gauge is to read. If you are rock solid and stay stock 35 psi is all you'll need because either turbo HX or HY will be maxed out by then. You didn't mention pyro or transmission temp. These are two other very highly recomended ones to get. Just my 0. 02 worth. Hope it helps and good luck.

 

[ERuhl]

I guess it comes down to what you consider the appropriate range for the gauge. In retrospect choosing gauges which are effectively "pegged" in normal use was a poor choice IMO and I will eventually change them out for ranges which I feel are more appropriate. Maybe it's just me, but I feel that using 1/2 to 3/4 of full scale to be an appropriate range, not 99%. I also feel it's a little easier to read a needle that's away from the edge of the gauge. Stock or slightly modified the same applies.

 

[yupikram]

Thanks, got an idea what to get now.

 

[DLane]

Your gauges will be most accurate if the pressure you need is mid range on the gauge. 15 psi for fuel 30# gauge, 30# boost 60# gauge and so on. Look at the factory "gauges" temps, volts, running close to the center point of the gauge

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I'd say look for a brand of gauges with a 35psi boost gauge instead of a 30. Mildly BOMBed trucks can nail 30 easy enough but 35 is starting to get to the practical limit of the stock turbo. In other words you're a lot more likely to be using the full limit of the 30 gauge but the 35 will still show ya where you're at. I've always had 35 gauges in my trucks and often pass 30 but not 35.