What should I do to get to 250 R.W.H.P.??

[KBalzuweit]

All you guys have been great with answers, I have decided to add another truck to the family. It will be either a 92 or 93 club cab dually 5 speed. I will be only used to tow a fifth wheel camper that is about 13k loaded. My 3/4 does it but not real well, and you can see my mods in my sig. I think the extra height of the fifth wheel just adds so much more wind resistance that it just seems to run out of steam. I have pulled a gooseneck with about the same weight and it was fine, but it was also a flat load. I am guessing with 250 hp at the rear wheels I will have no problem. Thanks



Karl

 

[formula]

Injectors . You need bigger injectors. Can't make more power without more fuel. You may want to consider a NV4500 trans also.



Sean

 

[dpuckett]

A few years ago, when the PWs were IT, and the Lucas was still an experimental idea used by few, Cummnzpowr had a 93 putting in the neighborhood of 250 to the ground. PWs, 16 cm housing, and a straight pipe, though I forget if it was stock or 3. 5" Boy we've come a long way in 3 years. Now we are trying to get 350-400 out of the VE's. ANyway, back to the 250- I would say a 14 cm housing- gated or not is up to you. Remember, the efficiency range of the H1C is only about 22-24 psi. After that, it loses efficiency, and drive pressures go up, along with EGT. Try a set of PWs and turn in your power screw a little (1/2 to 1 turn). Set the AFC spring pretty tight (2-3 turns from flush with top; or 5-6 up from bottom) and diaphragm to max. Some guys may disagree with me on the power screw, but I have done it on a few, and had no problems in 50-100K miles afterword. My current one is turned about 3 turns past stock, or it looks that way, I havent touched it, and has 252K on it. Also, while you ahve the AFC cover off, take out that useless nylon washer and get full travel of the pin. Took mine out and gained 4 psi peak. Of course, guages are a must. I would keep the Getrag if it is in good shape- just be sure to change the oil & overfill it by 1-1. 5 qts, to get lube on the top set of gears.

What else did I forget?

Daniel

 

[formula]

Beware of taking out the washer on the control cone. On some pumps, mine included, if you remove the washer, the control cone will travel too far downward and actually contact the guide pin with the underside of the cone. This is not a good situation and can lead to binding of the guide pin, loss of power and possible damage to the pump. A safer mod is to sand down the washer about 0. 100 inch or so.



Sean

 

[dpuckett]

Sean,



Didnt realize that about the tapered pin getting stuck on the guide pin. I got a DD pin 3 years ago, and they said to remove the washer for their pin, so I figured it would be good for the stock one too. One more thing I did remember while we are on the subject- when messing with the pin, if it is gummed up like mine was after 12 yrs and 245K, take some lube of some kind (I used synthetic grease) and put a light coat on the tapered pin. Helps it slide easier. I'm not going to mess with mine any more, but shaving the washer down might be better if things like to bind. Been lucky I guess. Oh yeah, timing to 1. 5mm or so. If you're pulling a TT, you will most likely come to visit us in the high country, and need the little extra boost. Or if you dont want to fork over $150, move the pump up 1/8" past factory marks.

Daniel