What size bolts on front driveshaft?

[DFrank]

I want to remove my front driveshaft to eliminate it as a possible driveline noise source.



What size are the torx bolts? I have one that fits, but it is hex drive and I need to get one that is socket. The one I have is not labeled. Guessing 35? What is that 3. 5 mm?



how about the bolts on the back end? 5/8" seems a little sloppy, but 15 mm is too small. Sockets don't fit and my open ends don't have much leverage. What is the appropriate wrench?



To those that have done this, did you remove the skid plate/ t-case support?



If doing this on the ground, do you roll the truck to gain access to the upper bolts?



I assume there is a spline joint under the rubber boot that will collapse and allow it to shorten, so it can come out.





Of those that have done this, did you remove the skid plate/ t-case support?

Thanks.

 

[MMeier]

Mine takes a 5/8" for the hex bolts and a T40 (Torx) on the front, a 3" or 4" long torx makes it easier to do. Did not have to remove skidplate. Be sure to use some loctite on the bolts on reassembly. Dodge does sell new torx bolts if you round out some, mine has been off truck several times. $6 a piece though !!!

 

[DFrank]

Thanks for reminding me about locktite. That could have been ugly.

 

[wcjp]

I second the extension for removing the T40 bolts. I destroyed the stock bolts on removal. I bought four normal Grade 8 metric Equivalents for $2.

 

[DFrank]

any chance you can tell me the thread size, so I can get the bolts before I do this?

 

[SWithrow]

SK Torx

I have removed the front shaft at least 4 times and still have the stock torx bolts installed. I drop the rear of the front shaft then with my long T40 wrench (simular to the attached picture) remove the 4 bolts. It works best if you lift the front wheels (makes easy to turn the shaft)

 

[wcjp]

any chance you can tell me the thread size, so I can get the bolts before I do this?

Sorry, I tossed the receipt. Bought them from a local specialty place. They know almost everything.

 

[fkovalski]

I too have a noise/ vibration that the idiot dealers can't/ won't isolate and have thought about dropping the front shaft too.



What about removing the shaft just at the differential only? With the T-case in Neutral (or 2WD) it is only the front axle that turns the shaft. This would reduce the amount of work in half. Could this work so long as under no circumstances the T-case is ever put into 4WD?

 

[wcjp]

I too have a noise/ vibration that the idiot dealers can't/ won't isolate and have thought about dropping the front shaft too.



What about removing the shaft just at the differential only? With the T-case in Neutral (or 2WD) it is only the front axle that turns the shaft. This would reduce the amount of work in half. Could this work so long as under no circumstances the T-case is ever put into 4WD?

This sounds like a bad idea. Besides, removing the rear bolts of the front driveline is very easy. Your vibe could also be tire related. Have you tried to check the heat difference of the rear Ujoints after driving the truck? This is how I isolated my vibes. The good Ujoints were 78deg while the bad Ujoint was 98deg.

 

[DFrank]

Just got the driveshaft out. Didn't make my (differential?) noise much quieter.

I assume I should replace the ujoints while i have it out (126K miles). Do I need a driveshaft specialty place or will a NAPA or Checker do this on the spot?

Is medium thread locker sufficient? The old stuff looked blue, so I bought some blue, or medium strength locktite.

Thanks.

 

[MMeier]

Imo...

... at 126k, you are probably getting close on that shaft anyways. I would replace the 3 joints with greaseable ones, or , if you plan on keeping the rig for any length of time, have a shop build you a new one with a greaseable trunnion also... middle area of the double cardan joint. There is a recent thread in the 6. 7 area that covers this. Blue loctite will be fine for this.