Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What the he?? has happened? (Long)

[Stranger]

As many know, late last year, my mistress spit her dowel pin through the case. Got all that fixed, sort of. At some point during the repairs I read that the torque value of the Fuel Pump Gear nut was to be 44lbs, so that's what I tightened it to. It's supposed to be 144lbs, I now know that and repeat it every day, .



So, I took her to work the first day, ran perfect. The second day she was puffing a little white smoke at start up. I figured I probably had one set of valves a little off. She was smokin' alittle more when I left work that day. On the way home that day, traffic was really pi$$y and when I hit the freeway, I buried the go pedal. Took off like her feet were on fire and her A$$ was a catchin', until...



At 80+ the boost fell to zip and she stood on her nose. Last time I felt a truck stop like that I was in the Air Force and we hooked an F-4 drag chute to the pintle hook and we threw it out at about 95 .



Anyway, I backed off, and tried to find out where we were gonna stop, tried to move to the right lane, looked in the mirror and all I could see was WHITE smoke :--) . Everybody, except one broad was giving me room. I guess they were trying to figure out where and when the flames/parts were gonna go.



The idiot in question was parked at the soot pipe with her window down and the smoke was just pourin' into her window. You know how when the B-B-Q needs just a LITTLE more fluid and it smokes white until you throw the match and then KA-BOOM ! If she had lit a cigarette then, her car would've exploded!



I had the turn signal on and kept goosin' it to try and get her to move. I even hit the air horns. She finally backed off. And I shot across 3 lanes to the shoulder. Everytime I goosed it, it sounded like a AA Fueler idling :--) . Pump gear slipped .



Had her towed home, found out about 144lbs and thought I put it back where I hoped it was supposed to be and tightened it to, you guessed it, 144 lbs. So now at start-up she lopes at idle for a little while, generally cleans up by the first stop sign.



Bottom line, my question is, can a 12V be timed w/out a dial indicator and what is the process? Sorry for being so long winded.

 

[ronco]

Stranger, If you know where your pump timed when stock, you can probably do some good. I think I know what to do so if anyone disagrees here, speak up. First, find TDC for #1 cylinder and mark the balancer. Second, rotate the pump until you can push the timing pin in. Mark the balancer. Using the formula for calculating the circumferance of the balancer, you can loosen the pump nut and move the balancer in reverse to advance your timing a few degrees. The formula for calculating circumferance is Pi times diameter (3. 14 x D). You need to get a good diameter measurement to improve your accuracy. When you have the circumferance, you can divide that number by 360 (degrees) and you will know how many thousands of an inch on the balancer correspond to degrees of timing.



I am in the land of breakfast cereal people this week, so I can't measure my balancer for you. I hope that helps.



Ronco

 

[jstarnes]

or you could buy a cheep dial caliper and remove the DV rotate the pump shaft and use the caliper to measure lift ( convert MM to . ooo in) it might take 4-6 hands but it could be done





also make sure when you re set the pomp gear you clean the oil off of the shaft ( helps to keep the pump shaft from turning when you torque the 144)

 

[Joe G.]

There is a way to set the timing to the original stock timing according to my shop manual.



Near the bottom of the pump just behind #6 delivery valve pump is a hex plug. There is a tool behind the plug that is used to set stock timing. It is reversed normally. If it is turned around it will engage a tooth that is correct timing for TDC on #1.



To set the timing find exact TDC on #1. Remove the pump gear. Rotate the pump until the timing tooth is visable thru the hole where the timing tool was in the side of the pump. Insert the timing tool into the hole until it engages the tooth. The manual warns that the tool should not be forced to engage the tooth. Rotate the pump so that the engagement is easy. Install the pump gear so that it engages the plastic timing pin that is above the power steering pump. Tighten the pump gear nut until it is snug (about 10 ft/lbs). Remove the tool from the tooth. Turn it around and replace it and the hex plug. Pull the timing pin back so that it does not engage the pump gear. Tighten the timing gear nut to 144 ft/lbs.



According to my service manual the timing should be set to whatever is on the data plate when this procedure is finished.