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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What to do first?

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I have had this truck for 3 years now and would like to start some upgrades to the power. My wish list is: gauges, torque converter, exhaust brake, reprogram and exhaust.



Money is tight for non-essentials such as these (as least that is what the wife calls them). Do I need to upgrade the torque converter (either ATS or Banks), or can I get away with the exhaust brake and reprogram with the stock transmission?



I have about 80,000 miles on the truck and am happy with all aspects except downhill braking with my 30' TT and the acceleration up hill while pulling.



Any testimony and numbers (HP, Torque, $$$) to back up claims would be appreciated. Any ideas on what I should do would also be appreciated. Looking for best bang for the buck while still retaining reliability.



Thanks
 
non-essentials such as these (as least that is what the wife calls them).



Gauges are essential!!!



If you want to add power, then a transmission upgrade is cheaper than a transmission repair - sort of like insurance, but you get to use it every day.



An exhaust brake is a safety feature. Its use can also extend the life of your service brakes, saving money in the long run. Automatic transmissions must be upgraded to handle an exhaust brake.



An exhaust upgrade is not required. That being said, I love the sound of my 4" pipe, one of my favorite upgrades.



Now for the going uphill side of the equation, adding power, check the classified here for good deals on a "starter set" of power upgrades. For instance, in a couple of weeks, when I get my Comp installed, I'll be putting up an Edge EZ and RV 275 injectors for a good deal price. That's good for 80 RW HP, sweet towing combo. :D



As you can see, I've rationalized all this before ;)

Cheers,

Neil
 
If you planning on upgrading the power then I strongly suggest you get a Mag-Hy-Tec 'Double Deep' transmission pan. Keeps the fluid cooler and it is pre tapped for gauge sending unit. Not so much as a h. p. upgrade but is cheap insurance FOR those upgrades later on. Do you have a converter lock up switch hooked up in your truck? Is that KN filter a drop in or is it one of them kits that removes the factory box? Put your flame suit on if you mention Banks around these parts... ... better hope you have deep pockets too... .
 
Ok these guys have all been right on the money. So follow their advise if I had to change any comment made above it would be the "exhaust is not required" I would say it more this way, "not required but HIGHLY reccomened" I say that because diesel's live and die on air. Getting it in and getting it out. These stock exhaust systems are extremely restrictive and hurt the engine more than it helps. I am not saying go and buy a monster 5" straight pipe, just consider a slightly larger less restrictive system than stock.



Also i would reccomend considering a cold air box intake. You will pleasantly surprised at the difference's you will see in ex. temps, MAYBE a little better mpg (always a dangerous subject here), but again this will fall into the getting air in and out of the engine.



Those two upgrades right there along with guages, will more than likely change everything about your truck as far as to what you are used to. And you can do all of those things with out touching the trannsmission for now. Then you can look into your transmission upgrades (a must do before going much further with HP upgrades and esspecaily if towing on a regular basis. ).



This is just my humble opinion.



Russell

Floor It Diesel Performance
 
As for the power upgrade, I much prefer my injectors for towing VS the fueling box. The power comes on much smoother and your cruise control will appreciate that! Of course 50HP+ injectors will run too hot without a boost fooler to let your ecm run higher boost. With my setup, injectors alone, my EGT's won't go higher than 1200F with ~33lbs towing WOT for minutes on end. I love my DDII's, I picked them up in the TDR classifieds for 325 shipped!

Don't forget your transmission first! I hear they don't like too much more than stock power.



John
 
I recommend Guages, then Transmission, then power. You'll be supprised at how differently your truck will act/pull with a good transmission. Gotta have guages though..... I'd start there, then transmission. Some guys can get away with a few power upgrades, THEN the transmission..... but not many! You said you are pulling... I'd DEFINATLY do the trans first.



Josh
 
transmission upgrades for sure. my torque converter clutch didnt like the difference just adding the rv275s. i was pulling a 16k gn. it started to slip when i started pushing the pedal down to keep speed going uphill.
 
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My upgrade order

Guages, DTT, EZ, Exhaust, AFE ProGuard 7 Intake, DD II's, then downgraded to 275s. (heat issues while towing. 3. 5s & 285 I didn't enjoy with the II's.

Before you can SAFELY enjoy any power upgrades the auto trans needs to be up to the task IMHO.



Clay :-laf
 
There has been a lot of good advice posted already. BOMBing is an expensive addiction. :rolleyes: The TDR classifieds are a great place to get some bargains, but a bullet proof auto is one thing that will cost some bigger bucks. Those that have them sure sing there praises though. I got my flame suit :-{} & I want to stick up for my Banks Brake. I've had 1 1/2 yrs of perfect service from mine.

I agree with John about injectors being smoother than boxes but an EZ with a set of RV 275's from the classifies is a solid performing package at a bargain price.
 
Can someone answer this question? (that was already a question):



Can I do gauges, AFE stage II (or BHAF), and exhaust without any other modifications (for now)? I thought I remember somebody saying that you can actually HURT engine performance by opening up the breathing without adding more fuel. I would love to have the above listed upgrades without doing anything else for a while.



Thanks,

John
 
JRihani said:
Can someone answer this question? (that was already a question):



Can I do gauges, AFE stage II (or BHAF), and exhaust without any other modifications (for now)? I thought I remember somebody saying that you can actually HURT engine performance by opening up the breathing without adding more fuel. I would love to have the above listed upgrades without doing anything else for a while.



Thanks,

John



It's not going to be a problem. The only thing you will notice is a different rumble from the exhaust. If you go with AFE be sure to get the Pro Guard 7 filter element. Stage II is a little pricy & might be overkill. A drop in for your stock box will work to over 400hp. A quality BHAF is a good way to go. Unsurpassed filtration & a low price.
 
I do remember reading a post a while back where someone lost 5 or 10 HP on a dyno when he went from stock to BHAF and a 4 inch exhaust. The theory behind the loss was because of the increased airflow the wastegate was a bit slow to open so the ecm would de-fuel because of the higher than stock boost. I think he even had the over boost code set. I would still do the upgrades even with this info, you will eventually add more fuel and turn your truck into a monster!
 
JRihani said:
Can someone answer this question? (that was already a question):



Can I do gauges, AFE stage II (or BHAF), and exhaust without any other modifications (for now)? I thought I remember somebody saying that you can actually HURT engine performance by opening up the breathing without adding more fuel. I would love to have the above listed upgrades without doing anything else for a while.



Thanks,

John



Go for it! The exhaust & PG7 you can get from Rip at www.sourceautomotive.biz & I believe he sells guages & an A-Pillar as well. You'll love Rips 4" exhaust & the fit is great!

Another source you may try for the guages is http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/gauges



Clay
 
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Thanks for all of the input! I think I'll probably go the BHAF route. Does anyone know where I can get those prefilter bags to go around the filter?



Thanks,

John
 
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