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What to do for more power

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Turbo for Dummies

Hey BRANDON

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I just bought a 96 with 65 000 on it. I am new to all this diesel stuff, I would like to get a little more power. The truck has a 4" Banks exhaust on it and k&n filter. I am not shore of what else. First off I am wondering where is the AFC housing and how far can I adjust the star weel so as to not do damage? I do have a etg and boost. So what is your advice?
 
Well, do you want to tear into it yourself?? The AFC housing is on the top-back side of the inj. pump. Ask Don or Joe G or Chris about adjustments, they can give you alot better advice than I can.
 
Gummel, Take a look-see around the TDR and find people near you with a 12-valve truck like yours. You'll find that almost any TDR member will go out of his/her way to help you out and give you any pointers that will make ownership of your vehicle SO much more enjoyable.



As for the AFC housing... . well, there's a lot that can be done to that area of the pump that costs $0. 00 and makes a lot of power, but you must do it wisely.



My advice is that since you already have gauges, you probably have some fueling mods in the form of an aftermarket plate or a stock one pushed forward or removed completely (like mine :eek: ).



Also, if you have gauges a governor spring kit from Piers is a VERY nice addition for the money. It's really easy to install and I couldn't believe the difference in how the truck drives after putting mine in. Goto: www.PiersDiesel.com check out the site... . then give him a call (604-853-9396). He's in Canada and is probably the most respected person known to the world of the Cummins B-series engine... . very laid back and knowledgeable kind of guy.



Hope this helps you out,

Matt
 
Stick or Auto?

First off do all of us a favor and go to USER CP and fill out your sig. so we know exactly what kind of truck you have. If your are lucky enough to have a 5spd, you have the BIG 215hp pump. ;) The AFC is on the top back portion if the pump. It has 4 screws holding it on the pump; 1 flattip screw, 2 8mm bolts, and an anti-tamper screw. Remove the housing and under it is the camplate. Slide it full forward for a nice power gain. :D Slide the AFC housing forward also when you install it. To adjust the AFC, there is an allen plug on the side, remove it to adjust the star wheel.
 
:D As I stated before I am still learning. I want to do things wisly, now by doing the governor spring change what will this give me? I am guessing higher rpm. One question I have is what should my egt be when driving say 70mph according to my gauge it is 500 deg dose this sound right? When accelerating my boost high is 20 dose this sound right. From these # can yall tell any thing? Thank you for the advice so far!!!!!!Oo.
 
Oops this shuld help!:eek:



Well I am not sure why my sig is not showing up but this is what I have:

1996 2500 green auto, power every thing, 4. 5" skyjacker soft ride lift, 315/16, K&N filter, 4"Banks exhaust, etg, boost and couple other goodies.



Hey HoleshotHolset I am near you Hampton NH.



For some reason my location is not showing up eather.

:eek:
 
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Gummel,



The first thing I would do if I were you is take the AFC housing off and look at the plate. The housing is near the back of the injection pump and on top. It is the hump with the hex hole in it for an allen wrench on top of it. It is fastened to the pump with four screws and has a line fitting on the back. One of them (top left) may be a "tamper proof" screw so you will need to unscrew it with a small chizel or by driveing a torx bit into the top of it and turning that. When the screws are removed the braket for the fuel solenoid will be over the lower two screw holes and must be pried away a little to get clearance to remove the AFC housing. When you get the AFC housing off you will see a plate fastened with two screws. It it is stock there will be two rivits. If there is a one or two digit number that is the number of the plate. There are some charts available to let you know what you have if there is a number. Let us know what you find.



For info about the KDP fix e-mail me.
 
gummel, the killer dowel pin is a locating dowl pin used during assembly of the engine. It is supposed to reside between the front of the block and the gear case. When the covers were machined on the 12 valve trucks, the hole the dowel pin rides in was machined all the way through instead of being a blind or shouldered hole. This can allow the pin to move out and drop down into the gear case where it is promptly wedged between the gear train and cover. This results in shattering the side of the gear cover. there is a very slick tool floating around that allows you to drill and tap a hole in the precise location needed, and then put a bolt in to prevent the pin from moving. It is worth doing, as if the pin actually falls out and breaks the case it is a job that can cost big bucks and hours to fix. I have been told the flat rate on it is 14 hours:mad: , if you get a jig and fix it it will take you less than 2 to prevent. Look at some of the posts on here about the killer dowl pin, and there are list of where the different tools are throughout the usa. get in touch with one of the tool controllers and get on the list for the fix.
 
The flat rate of 14 hours is insane. I had never done one and it took 3 . 5 hours to pull the cover and "tab it". We did 2 that day and it was faster the second time.
 
John,



I think rubberneck means that it takes 14 hours to replace the case if it breaks. My first attempt with Cord in the grass took 17 hours. My second job in a shop alone took 12 hours, so I'd say 14 hours is about right.



All the more reason to tab it or set screw it early?



-Chris
 
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