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What to do to get AC cold?

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RSchwarzli

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What would have to be done to get cold AC in the truck? The stuff that was pumped into my system (I believe R134) does not make the AC cold. I tried the new R 12A, but it still sucks.



Are the compressors in the newer trucks differant? The new trucks run on the same stuff that is in mine, but it is cold.



Will a new AC copmressor work with a 12v? As of what years of compressor to work? Would a copleate AC system from a new truck solve the problem? Thanks



Robert
 
A C Woes

Using the new R 134 should do the job most of the time. In very hot areas such as Brownsville or Phoenix on the hottest days a system designed for R 12

will fall short of the job due to the differance in chemical makeup of the Freon.

In short R 134 is not as cold as R 12 and cannot perform the job in a system designed for 12 . The Evaporator would need to be about 30 % larger to give enough cold air in the cab. The condensor (in front of the radiator) would also like to be larger. We are talking a major job to convert and get results. Last I checked 134 was about $ 12/can and R 12 is thru the roof if you can find it. I use a substitute that has very close cold specs in mine. R C
 
I retro'd mine to R134 last summer, and I have 40 deg air at the vent. If everything is working correctly and up to snuff but it only gets cool, try adjusting the capillary tube for the a/c cycling switch. It is the copper tube that is slid into the low side tube coming out of the expansion valve and heading back to the compressor (the bigger tube of the two). Slide it out incrementally until you get the desired result at the vent (out cooler, in warmer). If you can get a temp probe into the evaperator, adjust until the compressor cycles on/off just above freezing (35-38ish deg). If just using the duct, don't go below 40 or you'll probably have problems with the evaperator icing up.

Travis. .
 
Mine was converted to 134 by myself and a dealer. It was about 50° duct temp. I was told that 12a would perform better. So I dumped the 134 and installed the 12a and still it's 50° duct temp.



I was told I need a larger condensor. I may also need a new fan clutch because the temp will drop to 46° duct temp when driving on the freeway for about one hour.



Be sure to change out that dryer too. I'm going to have to see if the above tip on the capilary tube adj will work.
 
I remembered that I was told to operate the engine @ 1200 rpm and charge the system to the point that the compressor operates continuously... ... which I have done. So, the above method will have zero net effect as my compressor already operates w/out shutting off (to prevent the evap. from freezing).



I suppose 50° is the best I'll ever see, even with my new condensor and R12a
 
I always charge with a gauge, maybe you are over-charged? I believe an over-charge can cause a degredation in performance. Also, with a heat and a/c combo you need to make sure the blend door closes all the way. Take out the glovebox for access and make sure the door is closing all the way when the slide lever is all the way to the cold side. Turn your controls to max a/c and look inside the intake duct on the pass side of the heater box and see if the evaperator is covered in leaves and debris. If so, you will need to clean it.

Travis. .
 
An overcharge will allow the evap to flood. Yes it will not cool properly if it would be the case. I'll check the door operation , thanks.
 
Now your getting the idea.

low charge can cause evap icing.

dirty filter causes evap icing ( home, comercial)



make sure your evap. is clean.

Don't run your fan on high. (slower helps more transfer)

Insulate your floor and transmission area.

Tint the rear window. (solar load)
 
134 verses R12

DO NOT USE 134A in first gen trucks. . It will destroy the system in time.

134A is also 40% less efficient than R12. . There is only one replacement that I am aware of that is compatible with an r12 system. It is called HC12A .

Go to http://www.hc12ausa.com/hc12/index.html to find it. .

It actually cools better than R12 and does not hurt the system at all !



One other reason a system will not cool when everything else seems to be working properly is if some one put too much oil in the system



I really do not want to go into a big discussion about ac and gas...

The information above is fact not opinion. . Chemistry 101 in collage

is all one needs... . Paraffin wax(oil) + moisture + 134A = sulfuric acid now add open flame and you get what was referred to as "mustard gas" during WW1



I expect that there will be a bunch out there that are going to say 134a is fine and it works great and all that... . Well guess what ... . your wrong. 134a was not any good back in the 1930's when it was developed and that's why it was not used back then.....



Yes ac gas is one of my pet peaves ! And so is the scam that the government and Dupont played on the American public !







BSchwarzli said:
What would have to be done to get cold AC in the truck? The stuff that was pumped into my system (I believe R134) does not make the AC cold. I tried the new R 12A, but it still sucks.



Are the compressors in the newer trucks differant? The new trucks run on the same stuff that is in mine, but it is cold.



Will a new AC copmressor work with a 12v? As of what years of compressor to work? Would a copleate AC system from a new truck solve the problem? Thanks



Robert
 
I had this discussion w/the local A/C shop who originally converted my system to 134. They do not recognize HC12a and will not use it nor does the automotive industry.



So I couldn't help but to install it LOL Gotta be different.



BTW the tech said if the HC ever leaks out, I'll blow the truck up along with it's passengers... ROF
 
I like the HC12a simply becasue it uses like 1/4 less refrigerent as well as employs lower operating pressures.



If I read the material correctly that is sent with the cans, it's propane refined ten times over. Kinda like a smooth wine aged perfectly I suppose.



Propane/Butane and that gas farmers inject into corn crop, Anhydrous Amonia, all make for effective refrigerents.



HC 12a is all natural and non toxic etc. etc. HC= Hydrocarbon. As in fuel.



Hows that for English 101?? LOL
 
Greenleaf said:
I like the HC12a simply becasue it uses like 1/4 less refrigerent as well as employs lower operating pressures.



If I read the material correctly that is sent with the cans, it's propane refined ten times over. Kinda like a smooth wine aged perfectly I suppose.



Propane/Butane and that gas farmers inject into corn crop, Anhydrous Amonia, all make for effective refrigerents.



HC 12a is all natural and non toxic etc. etc. HC= Hydrocarbon. As in fuel.



Hows that for English 101?? LOL



Pretty sure you're failing. :D





Just kidding with you, Green. Sorry, I couldn't resist! :-laf
 
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