What to do with 5g?

[DCarner]

I have 5 g to spend, I am either going to install a banks monster exhaust, edge ez and a dtt trans, or I am going to add a banks m. exhaust banks big hoss and gauges and just save the extra money until the trans wears out then replace it. Any info would be appreciated. I have an 02 2500 qc 4x4 auto with 33000 miles, any info would be appreciated.

 

[R-N-R]

If I had it to do again, I would go with gauges and trans 1st. I think you will be surprised at how much power is not getting transferred to the ground from the stock trans. Exhaust sounds great but is not really necessary until you start building serious HP. You can replace your muffler with a straight pipe to enhance your sound for now. An EZ will add some definite smiles, but unless you have a conservative HP limit in mind, it will only last a short time before you want more... The CATCHER ECM might be a good alternative however the core charge (???) might push the price out of reach in comparison to the EZ. I suggest consulting with Bob Wagner before you decide on this. Either way, you could add a fueling module on later when you get your air and fuel flow upgraded.



I suggest that you shop around a bit before you buy, Banks makes quality products, but from what I have read you can save $$ or get more bang for your buck with other high quality products. The TDR search feature is an awesome tool to help you out with this.



EDIT: btw, you could send the 5g my way, I would be happy to research a twin turbo setup for you :-laf



Just my $0. 02

Bill

 

[SRadke]

Drop 4g on your trans then give Rip a call at Source Automotive. He'll set you up with an exhaust system and an Edge comp, that'll put a smile on your face Oh, Get some gauges too, you'll need 'em with the comp



-Scott



P. S. Banks is overpriced, you can do better.

 

[mcoleman]

DTT it. Then go with gauges and a comp as mentioned. My DTT transmission is by far my favorite mod.

 

[IC Smoke]

Share it with your fellow TRD memebers



DTT trans!



gotta rule out a weak spot when bombing!



Ian

 

[BKenny]

I agree Trans upgrade,gauges and if you have more to spend call Rip. You would save a lot of money by going with a Rips package or just exhaust system insted of Banks$$$$. If your planing on running an exhaust brake later tell them before they build your trany Im geting ready to do my taxes i hope i have some extra money to put into my truck

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Share it with your fellow TRD memebers







Ian

Even Better Forget the guys over on the Toyota Racing & Development site ...



Hook US up on the Turbo Diesel Register



:-laf



And Ian Nailed it TRANS FIRST!!!!

 

[SnoKing]

Well, my 2001. 5 had 32K on it and I did the DTT with Billet input and third gear cage. DD1 Jammers, Comp in EZ mode, Smart Controller, Banks Exhaust Brake, 3rd gen track bar, added a fuel pressure gauge to the three I already had and BHAF, and some other things I must have forgotten about.



Gauges, transmission and then maybe a CaTCHER ECM. transmission is costly, but the way the truck responds is great. Enjoy! Oh yeah! I spend 8K, but five is a good start. SNOKING

 

[Ted Jannetty]

Quote: I have 5 g to spend, I am either going to install a banks monster exhaust, edge ez and a dtt trans, or I am going to add a banks m. exhaust banks big hoss and gauges and just save the extra money until the trans wears out then replace it. Any info would be appreciated. I have an 02 2500 qc 4x4 auto with 33000 miles, any info would be appreciated.



Modifications should be done in a manner that takes into consideration the whole package, not just Power, or Price.



Proper Order for upgrading your ISB will give you the whole package, Power, Economy, and Reliability.



First you need to set a realistic goal for the way you want to use your truck and work toward it.



I have my preferances on who's product I use but for the sake of keeping the peace I will leave that out of the equation.



1) Gauges, Boost, Pyro, Fuel pressure

2) 4" turbo Back

3) Huge air filter.

4) Modest Plug in module

5) Torque converter and valve body upgrade

6) RV injectors

7) fuel pump upgrade



approx. $4100. 00 give or take depending on what you choose for parts.



This combination may not break any records but has proven time and time again to be totally reilable and will pull any and I mean Any trialer you can throw at it with ease and give back in fuel economy to boot.



In other words the Whole Package.

 

[IC Smoke]

Even Better Forget the guys over on the Toyota Research & Development site ...

I meant Turbo Diesel Register Tim! haha



Toyota Research & Development... . I didnt know they had one :-laf



Ian

 

[CATCRACKER]

ted is right dont let the transmission eat up all you $$ just get a good shop to refresh your seals etc and put in a good tq converter and valve body. you can save 1400 going this route which is enough to add a real real nice charger.



coverter $1200

valve body $400

take out refresh transmission $1000

gauges $325

straight though muffler $150??

rv275's $275

turbo $1300

edge comp $620



$5270



should put you around 360-380 to the ground

 

[Lorenz]

Ticker symbol VDE



make $1600 this year and buy yourself a "Free" turbo for christmas.

 

[SnoKing]

ted is right dont let the transmission eat up all you $$ just get a good shop to refresh your seals etc and put in a good tq converter and valve body. you can save 1400 going this route which is enough to add a real real nice charger.



coverter $1200

valve body $400

take out refresh transmission $1000





2600 bucks and you do not have a full custom transmission. Put the extra with it up front and you will not be back there for years to come. And the second R&R is 500 bucks wasted.



IMHO



SNOKNG

 

[Ted Jannetty]

If the transmission is clean there is no reason to overhaul it, a converter and valve body will allow it to handle 350 rear wheel with ease and then some typically around 1900. 00.



A thoroughly overhauled basically stock trans with converter and valve body has handled over 600 rear wheel as long as you don't abuse it, like holding your foot on the brake and building 30+ lb. boost.



I know everyone plays around but I am just trying to make a point here.



You don't need to spend 4500. 00 to handle 350-400 rear wheel.



And You don't need more than 350 hp to pull trailers with ease and get great mileage and total reliability.



Removal and installation, major overhaul, with converter and valve body fluid and additive should cost 3200. 00 baring no hard part damage.

 

[SnoKing]

If the transmission is clean there is no reason to overhaul it, a converter and valve body will allow it to handle 350 rear wheel with ease and then some typically around 1900. 00.



A thoroughly overhauled basically stock trans with converter and valve body has handled over 600 rear wheel as long as you don't abuse it, like holding your foot on the brake and building 30+ lb. boost.



I know everyone plays around but I am just trying to make a point here.



You don't need to spend 4500. 00 to handle 350-400 rear wheel.



And You don't need more than 350 hp to pull trailers with ease and get great mileage and total reliability.



Removal and installation, major overhaul, with converter and valve body fluid and additive should cost 3200. 00 baring no hard part damage.

Then one will want to install an exhaust brake if they tow 10K plus, and wish they had done it differently. Ted, I respect your opinions, but I do not think we know enough about how he is going to use the truck!



And as many others have stated a good DTT, ATS or other custom transmission equals a very good bomb. The top notch transmission shops use to sell VB's and TC's, then found the the complete meal deal was much more reliable, as they fix many of the other weak points in the transmission.



SNOKING

 

[PRyker]

If I could do it over I would also go for the trans first without hesitation. Even before gauges. But you do not have to go the route of ATS or DTT. Doesn't Suncoast make a rock solid trans that is a bit cheaper? And Suncoast is just as good isn't it?



Phil

 

[JHerrlich]

Start off with one thing... K. O. R. E. Suspension. From what I understand, you won't regret it. I've ridden in the truck and the difference is awesome.



www.koreperformance.com

 

[DCarner]

The truck is going to be used as a daily driver, and during the summer it will pull a 4000lb lawn trailer. That is all the truck is going to be used for. I was just wanting to add a little hp, and from what I understand the stock trans just won't hold up.

 

[SnoKing]

Well, I ran my stock transmission for 32K miles towed a 9K 5er from time to time and 2K snowmobile trailer in the winter. If you drive that transmission, that is do not put power to it below 1800 RPM, do not overheat it rocking it to get unstuck etc etc, they will last quite awhile. Add some power and you start down the slippery slope. Why not just put in gauges and enjoy it for awhile. For what you are going to do, you really do not need extra power. The people on this site are just a fraction of the CTD owners, however they are a large percentage of the people the bomb the CTD. Many of the trucks are out there running fine stock. Monitoring fuel pressure is probably the most important thing you can do. Then comes transmission temps. SNOKING

 

[CATCRACKER]

just add a converter and valve body dont do the whole transmission. as far as the transmission goes you could be on the safe side and never have to worry full billet parts upgraded flywheel etc but you will dead broke when you get done. if you put in a good converter and valve body it will hold 350 no probs this has been proven. then when the seals etc get tired the converter and valve body will still be good pull the transmission get the upgraded parts and move on down the road. he said he had 5k to spend my proposal is the most bang for the buck at around 5K. of course if you can do the whole transmission do it. but again i say TED is right if you are on a budget and will be around 350 valve body and triplelock or a good single lock is sufficient.