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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What to get when you need 14psi at all time, but dont have $800

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) looking for 47re/48re case

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Hey I have about 500+HP and need a constant flow of fuel to keep my VP44 happy. What I dont have is $800+ for a RASP or FASS system. What is a must have in my situation, pumps, big lines, banjos??? Are there other less expensive kits out there. I dont see why people are spending $1,000 just to have 14psi. Is it really that hard????



I do realise the RASP and FASS are really nice systems and they are better then others its just I cant afford them.



Thanks
 
I am under 500hp but I have the same issue. I chose to install a high flow line and fitting kit and add a second 15psi pusher pump on the frame. I expect to see running pressure of 22psi and do not expect to pull the pressure down under 10psi at 5x5 WOT. I could add in a regulator to decrease the running pressure but I am not sure what that will do to my WOT pressure. I received my kit from Power by Poole yesterday and will install it today. Alternatively you could use a 7psi pusher pump mounted on the frame. The lines, fittings, and/or pump can be assembled by yourself or purchased in a kit from numerous vendors. Mine came with the lines and fittings pre-assembled with each fitting labled, a wire harness that taps into the factory harness (to trigger a relay, power direct from the battery) with each wire labled, and a drawing of how the kit installs. Hopefully by the time this system is ready for an uprade the pricing on the high end pumps will be more reasonably priced.



You will want to add the plumbing even if you go with a high quality pump.



fwiw,

Bill
 
R-n-R - with a 15 psi pusher at the tank you will get a lot more than 22 psi. In my experience from emails from many users with questions as well as my own experience the two pumps add together and that's the pressure you get. I get 20-22 psi with a 7 psi pusher at the tank. A number of users have accidentally added a 15 psi pusher and were seeing 30 psi and emailed me asking why their pressures were so high.
 
To answer your question BigDan my recommendation would be to add a 7 psi Carter pump at the tank (in addition to the engine mounted pump) and if your concerned about the slightly higher pressures add a regulator to regulate the pressure down to 14 psi. I went through 4 lift pumps between when I bought my truck at 24,000 miles and 60,000 miles. I went to the pusher pump at that point and it lasted with no problems to 150,000 when the engine mounted pump failed. It has been a very reliable system compared with the stock setup. I see 20 psi and it doesn't go below 18. Here's a thread on what I did: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19767
 
Wth the BD kit you will see close to 30 psi,it doesn't come on till you have the engine running so start up will not be an issue,but I am not so sure that much pressure will be benefical to the useful life of the VP-44. I am also under the impression that both the 7 and 15 psi pumps are of the same flow rating per hour. Carter also makes a fuel pump kit that comes with a ck valve I beleive that number is p4601rv.



Bob
 
Get a pusher pump, and if possible, replace all those banjo bolts with a free flow type fitting.

-Rich
 
I'm wondering why some of you guys don't get one of these http://www.haisleymachine.com/auxiliary_fuel_systems.htm

No it's not a RASP or FASS but half the cost, you could use it setup with a hobbs switch and relay to turn on at what ever boost setting you wanted to set it at depending on your fuel demand issue. I use mine as a flip of the switch turn on as it doesn't matter that I pull my stock system down to 3 psi, I've run this for 1 1/2 years now with no failures..... food for thought!



Jim
 
Jim - I wasn't looking for extra flow. My stock pump with drilled out banjos flowed enough fuel to keep my pressures above 10 psi. It just died WAYYYYYY too fast. I was replacing my pumps on an average of every 9,000 miles. Adding the pusher pump has increased that number to 90,000 miles or 10 times as long. An add on parallel system like that wouldn't solve that problem - it's for a problem that I didn't have.
 
I have some of the bd lift pump kits simple install great setup. Step one cut a section out of the lower fuel line yes the big one. Step 2 drill holes in frame mount pump in between fuel line you just cut then attach supplied hose to fuel lines either side of pump, clamp with supplied clamps slide hose onto brass barbed fittings either side of pump again clamp with supplied clamps. Wire harness install disconnect batteries of course the kit comes with a harness attached fused red wire to drivers side positive terminal then connect ground wire to battery. There is a allen head bolt on the left side of block just to the rear of injection pump you will need to remove this and screw in pressure switch than plug this into the wire harness and your done. The reason for pressure switch is to eliminate the potential for hard starts The factory lift pump will start your truck and when 50 lbs of oil pressure is achieved then pusher pump will kick on the kit comes with everything you need and it use's a carter pump
 
The Wildcat MAX-FLOW system changed my fuel pressures from 15 idle/12 cruise/ 5 wot to 18 idle/15 cruise/ 11 wot.

Not bad for only $140

Of course, I have much less HP than some of you guys. But the plumbing of the Wildcat kit is first-rate.
 
All y'all GURUS-

What's your take on using the existing fuel lines from the tank to the lift pump? If you're going to use the big line kit (I have the MaxFlow kit in my garage waiting) to improve the inlet to the pump, the line from the pump to the filter, and the line from the filter to the VP, why not upgrade the feed line from the tank to the pump? No gain? How about the Haisley kit with the new standpipe, any benefits?

MY HEAD IS SPINNING!!! How much is enough? When is it too much?

(P. S. I'm not planning (today) to go much beyond my current level, 500hp range is my goal)
 
I am working on a fuel system. My total cost will be somewhere around $400 between a fuel pump, all new fittings, huge fuel filter, an new fuel lines. This page is under construction... This answers some questions as to what fittings you need. Lots of updates soon. I beleive I will be using a Holley black pump as my pump NOT a carter 4601hp as described. Holley is good for 140 GPH. What does 500 RWHP at WOT use?!



http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/fuelsystem
 
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Are you installing a bulkhead fitting to feed the new line? I was told that the factory filter was 10 micron (couldn't find the email right now, I'll keep looking).
 
Yes definitely going to try to use a bulkhead fitting!



I want to use this perhaps:

#ad




3/8" female on both sides and 1" hole. There are better fittings at McMaster carr but cost $120 vs $8... I'll buy some large 1" ID washers and Viton gaskets to go on either side of the tank.
 
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What gets to the pump is all that matters. For those not running their gauge at the inlet to the pump, you should consider moving it to that location.



Our big fuel line kit and pusher pump kit sell for a little less than half the number listed in the topic, and supply adequate fuel for the 550-600rwhp level on #2 only.



My truck in it's current configuration (530rwhp) makes 21psi at idle and no less than 9psi in 5x5, WOT. When it was at 510hp, it made 23psi at idle and no less than 11psi at WOT in 5x5.
 
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