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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What to look out for in a used 2500 or 3500

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel shut off question...

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Like the title says what should a buyer look for. In march my beautiful ride got totaled but some idiot runnin a stop sign. Im wanting a 2500 or 3500 4x4 man trans quad cab. Mostly lookin at 02 and under. But Im thinking of 04 and up as well. I have done a few searches and havnt really found a topic that addresses what someone should look out for when buying a used Cummins.
 
In my opinion the 2nd gen fuel system SUCKS and you need to totally rebuild it from the tank pickup all the way through to the tank return replacing or relocating everything but the tank body and the VP44.



I would find a 1st gen (P7100, or put a P7100 on a 2nd gen) and run biodiesel. Dino fuel is not going to get any cheaper and probably a LOT more expensive.



Bob Weis
 
The 98. 5-02 feul system is tricky but once the kinks are worked out serious hp can be made. PLAN on dealing with the feul system on these trucks. I for one like the 94-98. 5 12v, with the most desirable being the 98-98. 5. (they come with a third door), then the 97 (they come with the best injection pump, the 215hp p7100). The p7100 has the ability to deliver copious amounts of feul on demand all without the help of a computer! IMO they are less finicky about the feul you run through them also. All 94-99 trucks will have issues with the kdp (do a search). Make sure your next truck has the Dana 80 rear end. Transmissions are a touchy subject with warnings on both sides of the aisle. The nv4500 has a nasty habit of spitting the 5th gear nut into the bottom of the transmission. Fix it right the first time and problem solved. I despise auto's and know that if you want them to last under abuse, plan on slapping down some frogskins. With a standard, when I let the clutch out, the wheels turn or the engine stops. Period. I also like the 03-06 trucks but they are expensive to buy and even more expensive to hot rod. Thank the Lord for the fact that my truck is paid for and that has alot of bearing on my opinion. This should be a great thread if everyone chimes in. Good luck.
 
I think when anyone want to buy a used vehicle you should set aside some cash for fixes.

I own a '99 so here is what I would look for:

#1 - Harbor Freight OBDII code reader ($50. 00-tells you alot of info about truck life)

Compression check

Brake job on all axles (check rotors & drums)

Rear Axle seals

Axle fluids

Change radiator fluid & radiator cap

Change radiator hoses

Change all the vacuum hoses

Vulcan kit - 1/2 line, lift pump with pre-screen filter

Pull the fuel tank and clean inside (check the float and gauge response)

Triple gauge set (temp of turbo & trans with fuel pressure-this will tell you alot about the vehicle)

Filters (include trans)

Control arm ($99. 00-New on Ebay)

Replace Breather (Fleetguard Enviro Kit)

Rebuild the vacuum pump

Alignment

Batteries

Tires

Shocks (only if broke - come on it's a 3/4 ton!)



I am thinking $1,000. 00 - $3,000. 00 - 3 days in the garage and you are ready for 75,000 miles easily.



Thrown in a few dollars and get new Lynyrd skynyrd & Willie Nelson cds!
 
I think you should buy my 98. 4 12valve and wonder why you ever owned a 24valve... .

Only a 5 hour drive away from ownership!!!
 
Yeah I had the vp44 blues about a week before some jerk destroyed the truck. Really the only thing that is making me even think about the 3rd gen is the fact that you have 4 doors and dont have to open the front to get the back open... (got a 3 month old here) As for the fuel system well I figure its gonna need work. It looks like the 98. 5 12v is the unicorn, in my list of new rigs. I dont really care for the interior of the early gen 2's. Be sides fuel trouble and the 5spd retaining nut. The only thing I know of that I need to look out for is the 53 block? I guess ill have to weigh my options on all the models. I like the idea that 12v's can produce more power easier and alittle less expensivly, But then Again I will have to do a bit of work to the 5spd or swap a 6 spd and no rear discs untill 2000 i think.





If you guys where to be able to order a 12v or 24v with what ever came factory. If you could order a truck from the factory that had all the little quirks and bugs worked out. What would it have in it. Like Block cast#, transmission, front and rear axles, what factory would it have come from.
 
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