2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission what tools do I need?

[JAmos]

My ignition key switch went south on me today and I'm wondering what tools I need to fix it. Is it a torx screw that holds the air bag to the steering wheel? I'm assuming that I need to unhook the batteries for a couple minutes prior to starting the disassembly to drain the air bag system and prevent accidental activation of the air bag. Thanks



Jordan

 

[Joe G.]

Why do you think you need to take the air bag out? The ignition switch is not on the steering wheel. It is on the steering column. You need a torx bit screwdriver to get the steering column covers off. That's not hard. The switch is then easy to get at.

 

[JAmos]

To explain my problem a bit more, the key switch kinda flops around and if I get lucky I can push the key in hard enough to engage what seems like the rest of the key switch and it would start. It is hard to get the switch to work right in any position so when i get it in the key on position I have a jumper wire from the starter that I use and keep it tied to the fender. As far as the air bag comments, i was thinking the problem was in the key switch so I thought that if the air bag was unscrewed then I would take the steering wheel off, ect. , till I got the switch out. But I will check the switch out down on the column. I assume it has a rod that goes between the lock cylinder and the ignition switch.



While I'm there, how do I check the wiring to the cruise control? The cruise hasn't worked for a long time and the air bag light has been on for the same length of time and I'm wondering if there is a connection for them inside the steering wheel. Maybe under the air bag?



Thanks



Jordan

 

[Joe G.]

There is a recall on the ignition switch. It may have over heated. Use your VIN on this site to check to see if all the recalls have been done:

http://www.dodge.com/webselfservice...recall&country=us&emailUrl=goToEmailForm('R')



You can get to all the steering column wireing without messing with the air bag. Just take the covers off below the steering wheel.

 

[McLaughlin]

To explain my problem a bit more, the key switch kinda flops around and if I get lucky I can push the key in hard enough to engage what seems like the rest of the key switch and it would start. It is hard to get the switch to work right in any position so when i get it in the key on position I have a jumper wire from the starter that I use and keep it tied to the fender. As far as the air bag comments, i was thinking the problem was in the key switch so I thought that if the air bag was unscrewed then I would take the steering wheel off, ect. , till I got the switch out. But I will check the switch out down on the column. I assume it has a rod that goes between the lock cylinder and the ignition switch.



While I'm there, how do I check the wiring to the cruise control? The cruise hasn't worked for a long time and the air bag light has been on for the same length of time and I'm wondering if there is a connection for them inside the steering wheel. Maybe under the air bag?



Thanks



Jordan

Your original comment regarding removing the battery cables for a couple of minutes from the battery is valid when working in the anywhere near the airbag. The service manual specifically mentions to remove the cables when working on parts of the steering column. That said I haven't followed the manual but if you don't there is a risk both to you and if the bag deploys it costs a bit to fix the problem.



I don't think you have to remove the steering wheel to get at the ignition switch but haven't replaced a switch so I can't say for sure. According to the service manual, I don't have to remove anything but negative battery cables, the tilt lever and the upper and lower covers on my 97.



Regarding the cruise, typically look for a vacuum leak first my cuise didn't work until I replaced the vacuum line to the controller under the battery and replaced the controller. The vacuum line was broke and something had worn a hole in the controller so it wouldn't hold vacuum either. If you don't have a servo controller or vaccum problem then you probably need to run a resistance check on the switches in the steering wheel.

 

[Rattlin_Ram]

I just replaced my ignition switch, and cylinder lock on mine. Since the truck was stolen one night and recovered the next day. The steering wheel didn't have to come off. But I did have to run by Harbor Freight and pick up some tamper proof torx bits. BTW if you are buying new parts, the switch itself is about $75 at the dodge dealer. The cylinder lock is about $125 (thats the part the key goes into), then the dealer will reprogram the cylinder lock for $25 to match your existing keys. OR as I did I just went onto ebay and bought a cylinder lock and a new set of keys for $35. Only dis advantage is I now have a door key and ignition key... But since I had a $1000 deductible I'm tryin to save $$$ wherever I can... Haynes manual explains how to take everything apart...

 

[JAmos]

I found my haynes manual and sure enough it seems easy. I have a big set of bits with tamper proof torx. The local dodge ******* wants a bit over $100 for each part, car quest $63. The ******* didnt mention any cost to match the new lock cylinder to my key. I think I'm gonna try some local lock smiths and see what they can do to redo the tumblers on a new lock cylinder.



Jordan

 

[JAmos]

Hmmm, apparently my poke in the dodge dealers' ribs bout their high prices must be considered explicit or inflammatory. I apologize. They don't steal. They just have really high prices that we have to pay to get some of the parts we need, especially when nobody else has them.



Jordan

 

[KMott]

Did you check on the recalls as Joe said? My truck is a 94 and when i got it, it had 4 outstanding. I took it in and they replaced the throttle cable, ignition switch, welded a shock tower and one other thing in the steering column i cant remember.

Also, my cruise didnt work at first either, and it turned out that the brake switch sensor was bad. When hooked up to a scan tool it kept reading that the brakes were on and off. This was also causing the trans to jump in and out of lockup once in a while. Once i replaced the 30 dollar part, both problems were gone. Good Luck!

 

[JAmos]

I checked my vin on the link from Joe, and all clear. I changed the lock cylinder and it works good. On the back of the lock cylinder, part of the switch broke off, causing variable starting or no starting problems. I can start the truck from inside now so i'm happy. Just need to keep going and find out why all the components in the steering wheel don't work(no horn, no cruise, air bag light on in the dash).



Jordan

 

[Bob4x4]

I checked my vin on the link from Joe, and all clear. I changed the lock cylinder and it works good. On the back of the lock cylinder, part of the switch broke off, causing variable starting or no starting problems. I can start the truck from inside now so i'm happy. Just need to keep going and find out why all the components in the steering wheel don't work(no horn, no cruise, air bag light on in the dash).



Jordan

Most likely clockspring... ... ... .



Bob

 

[Missouri Mule]

Check your clock spring!

 

[JAmos]

If the clock spring looks good from the outside, can i check for continuity?



Jordan

 

[burnin oil]

Check the wiring that feeds up to the clock spring also. It is a really fine wire gauge and breaks easily if the tilt coloumn is used a few times.

 

[Bob4x4]

If the clock spring looks good from the outside, can i check for continuity?



Jordan

Yes



Bob

 

[JAmos]

It doesn't look like I will get to it till this weekend but is there any chance that it could have come unplugged under/inside the steering wheel when I was bleeding the new steering pump and gear box? I got to thinking today that i worked the air out of the system before hooking up crossover rod to the steering box arm and maybe turned the wheel to many times, pulling the wires off?



Jordan

 

[Bob4x4]

It doesn't look like I will get to it till this weekend but is there any chance that it could have come unplugged under/inside the steering wheel when I was bleeding the new steering pump and gear box? I got to thinking today that i worked the air out of the system before hooking up crossover rod to the steering box arm and maybe turned the wheel to many times, pulling the wires off?



Jordan

Nope... ..... not unless you allowed the steering wheel to turn with the steering gear disconected from the colum



Bob