What type of Home did you build?

[RottnDogue]

Looking into new construction and I am wondering what others did, and any pro's and cons you may have come across. Any Advice, or info is always appreciated.



Darren



Damn I meant to put a poll with this... ... . Well, anyone go with a modular, or light gauge steel construction?

 

[lschultz]

No comments on either one cause we built a log house.

 

[RottnDogue]

Sweet, I looked into that, but the wife wasn't going for it... ...



Darren

 

[TPCDrafting]

I draw custom home plans for a living. Mostly log homes for a package dealer in CO. I also do traditional stud built homes and insulated concrete form houses. I like the icf's because of the solid construction and insulation values (r-50 walls) They shouldn't be percieved as something you and your buddies with a couple 'a cases of beer can put together on the weekend. It takes somebody who knows how to brace the walls properly before pouring. We also do insulated concrete floors and flat roofs. These make a good southwestern adobe type looking house, but you can also put on any kind of siding, brick, stucco whatever. We put framed roofs, trusses, sip panels, whatever the client wants. I can't immagine too many adobe pueblo's in CT!!!

icf houses: http://www.formtechsys.com/



icf floors and roofs: http://www.insul-deck.org/company.htm



Also check out Structural Insulated Panels (SIP's)

http://www.enercept.com/



These come pre-wired, insulated, sheathed (in and out) and have the structural members imbeded. It's a pretty quick setup.



As for modulars, personally IMO they will be a maintenance headache only a few years into ownership. Resale around here is tough although many people are putting them up, they in turn have a tougher time selling them. From the ones I've been in, in order to get one built to the quality standards of a stick built house, your paying the same amount with less initial equity. I don't mean to **** anyone off, that's just my opinion.

 

[Peter Campbell]

ICF

I know some are against modular. In the northeast they are very popular. Not due to cost. Mostly to do with the builders. By the time the subdivision gets approved, through the many layers of review, possibly an environmental impact statement, complaints from the neighbors that the "bucolic" surroundings that they built thier house in are being ruined ( They did not buy the surrounding land) and this is if it is zoned for what you are building. To change zoning it is worse. As soon as someone annouces a review of a large subdivision someone will push for a moratorium on new permits. Once the builder gets this through, Excavates, puts in services, foundation. It makes sense to have a modular trucked in. Not much on cost savings. But it saves the time that a lawyer could put a stop work on it. once they are approved by the town and dropped in, that is that. So up here in commie country New york, where the people that bought the new house last month are pushing to save the open space and make thiers the last house built. At the expense of the owners of the open space.

As for me , I am going to rebuild. Thanks to all these commies, the value of my exising "house" (more like a shack) is valuable. I am looking at the ICF basement and side walls. Can be covered by anything ( I like brick) Essentially a reinforced concrete house about 5% more expensive than stick built, quiet and energy efficient. I just have to come up with plans, a project timeline, location and cost of concrete pumping crews and equipment. All in a high labor litigous state. Wonderfull.

 

[Snow man]

I agree with TPC drafting,modualrs look 40 yrs old after 6 yrs,all the walls crack and split,the fit and finish just isnt up to par,and seldom do they line everything up right,I built my ranch stick built with trusses due to the large open span of my ceiling,If i could id go with conventionally framed roof,for storage area next time,at least over part of the house.

 

[The patriot]

TPCDrafting, are any of those houses rated for bomb blasts, and how many kilotons, and at what distance from ground zero? :-laf :-laf



I'm thinking about moving out of here, compared to a stick built house, does anyone know how much more the icf type would run?

I'm sure it would have to be substantial.

Eric

 

[chuck3]

1st house was build of straw, but it got blown down and I had to run for my life.

2nd was build of sticks same dam thing, barely escaped this time.

Now I'm living in a four bedroom rambler made of bricks, and I moved away from those dang toranado areas.

 

[TPCDrafting]

The Patriot

The foam form system I work with comes in sizes ranging from 2 1/2" thick to 12" thick. Imagine 12" of concrete reinforced like a bank vault (rebar about every 4" each way) ((only if you desire, normal construction doesn't require this I'm only describing it this way for The Patriot)), built into the side of a hill like a bunker. Would that survive a heavy blast? I don't know but can you come up with a construction type that would do better and still be a well insulated, wind proof and liveable space??? Call the guys at Norad, they can give you plans on how to hollow out a mountain and live in there.



As far as cost goes, the forms themselves and concrete are a bit cheaper than buying studs, sheathing, insulation, vapor barrier, etc. BUT the labor is going to cost more. Your electrician and plumber are going to charge more. I think overall it will cost more to build this way, but the advantages of heating/cooling savings over the years and a very stout house are worth it.



KEEP in mind I'm not trying to sell anything. This is what I know. I'm not a diesel guru like many of you guys and I've been leaching info off you for years and this is how I can repay. Thanks!

 

[RonaldLarson]

TPC

is right. From experience, I'd go with a concrete block wall system which is filled with insulfoam after torquing the wall to the footing. We lived in such a home in Scottsdale, Az, and it was so quiet and heat insulating you would not believe it. Our present home is built with 2X6 studs above a concrete basement. Very thick ceiling insulation, and this house is a close second to the concrete. Can't go wrong either way, IMHO.

Ron

 

[RottnDogue]

TPC

Seeing how I don't see these homes everywhere or anywhere for that matter in CT that finding a contractor to perform this construction would be a bear. Can you give some Idea of cost, your average 3000 sq. ft. house? Thanks. .



Darren

 

[ZEEEW]

My woman has her heart set on a dome house, if you like those things.

 

[The patriot]

Originally posted by RottnDogue

TPC

Seeing how I don't see these homes everywhere or anywhere for that matter in CT that finding a contractor to perform this construction would be a bear. Can you give some Idea of cost, your average 3000 sq. ft. house? Thanks. .



Darren

There's a guy in Saunderstown Ri. How far is that from you?

Eric

 

[Partyat33]

There are estimators for how much a house will cost per square foot. Usual # are around $110/per square foot.



Now that all depends on how much you do and how fancy it is etc etc. I just finished a home where I did a considerable amount of work and was the general contractor. I saved at least 50k if not 100k.



The general contractor makes quite a bit on the house, if you can skip him and take on the headaches your self, I highly suggest you consider it.



Unless you are 100% self financed you find some banks are skiddish on loaning you money on technology that is not widespread. We wanted to build using a brick block system, kinda like a lego really, but it was not conventional so we did not use it.



Good Luck



Dennis

 

[RottnDogue]

Originally posted by The patriot





There's a guy in Saunderstown Ri. How far is that from you?

Eric

Not sure where in RI that is, but either way it's about 2 hours. See that's what I mean, there's "A GUY". Makes it tough to haggle... . LOL



Darren

 

[WDaniels]

RottnDogue,

IMHO I like the steel structures due to the ability to span large distances(for living rooms,show rooms ect... ), no termites or bugs, strength and cheaper construction costs. The insulation is spray on foam. There are 2 types of foam, one is closed cell and the other is open cell. The open cell is preferred but only has about 1/2 the "R" value of the closed cell foam so that you have to get twice as much but the open cell foam does not get rigid and stays semi flexable to give with movement. With the foam you don't need vapor barrier, the foam is the barrier. The foam is costly(up here) but does block ALL drafts, holes and the like(which saves on heating and cooling costs big time) and is structual also. Radiant floor heat is the only to go in places that get cold with weirsbo tubing in the concrete and a Weisman adjustable boiler. With that tight of a house you will need a air exchanger too. With the metal buildings you can get larger size metal studs for just a few cents more unlike wood.

I've done a fair amount of research into the red metal houses. If you PM me I will give you a bunch of names of manifactures who build homes out of steel. Another savings for you in the lower 48 will be shipping. There are other things also but they are easily overcome.

I also like the foam forms that you pour concret into. That would be my second choice

WD

 

[TPCDrafting]

Party is right. I'd plan for $80 to $140 per square foot. That's a pretty wide range I know, but it all depends on the construction type, weather you have a GC or not and how much you do yourself. I drew a weekend cabin using ICF's up near Grand Lake Colorado last year in which the guy had his shell built for around $40/sq. ft. and then finished it himself. Not sure what the grand total was. Keep in mind thats rural construction and up there the concrete must have cost around $100-$110 a yard delivered to the site.



I always tell people when building a house they'll be in for a while if not forever to do it right. Spend whatever it takes, it's your castle. Don't over-extend yourself where you have to live with the inlaws, but do it right.