What would cause a new fan clutch to remain engaged at all times?

[Razorhunter]

Early 04 Cummins.
Original fan clutch @85k never engaged. It literally never engaged at all. Truck never ran hot. 200-205 max temp. However, AC only worked at highway speeds. Truck threw p0480 and 0483 codes so I just replaced fan clutch 2 days ago.
NOW I have the opposite problem. Fan clutch never disengages. Even at 70mph with AC off its just roaring away. In every gear at every speed I hear it. Only thing new fan clutch fixed was AC does now blow cold at idle and also truck runs cooler @190ish.
I know fan clutch is not supposed to run all the time like this. I can literally feel it wasting diesel fuel running this much.
I have scoured the net and only thing I can come up with is a possible ICM problem that the dealer would have to flash to check? I dont even wanna know what a possibly bad ICM would cost??
Anyhow, is there ANY other possiblity here, or recommendations you guys might have? Is there a sensor anywhere that might possibly be telling the ECM engine is hotter than it truly is? I heard there is a sensor somewhere in/near the rad, but not sure here?
What could my problem be?

I'm almost considering putting the old fan clutch back in and living without AC @idle speeds. I cant deal with a non engaging fan clutch.
What would happen if I just unplugged the fan clutch? Guessing engine would run too hot or get a no start condition I've heard about?
Need some help here. Thanks so much for any advice.

 

[AH64ID]

Take it back for another.

If it still runs all the time you likely have a sensor with a false reading making the fan run.

 

[Razorhunter]

Thanks AH64,
Where is this/these sensor(s) located?

FWIW, I went against my better judgement and tried a NAPA fan clutch. Might try a MOPAR next, but that still would be some coincidence that I just got a bad NAPA unit. I suppose stranger things have happened to me though.

 

[AH64ID]

There are many sensor that the ECM uses. coolant temp, intake air temp, ambient air temp, and A/c pressure are the main ones... plus trans temp if you have an auto.

 

[Wayne M.]

Sometimes if the clutch is stored face down the fluid inside goes where it shouldn’t, and when it’s installed, it might misbehave, but it should have straightened out by now.
Also, there’s many reports of the aftermarket units not working well. Stick to the OEM replacement unit. Also, really examine closely the wiring on the engine side of the clutch plug. I found green wires in mine.

 

[Razorhunter]

Well one more thing guys. I also had check engine light come on this am and had two more codes other than the fan codes.
The two orher codes were
P0073
P0107

These are both for the intake air/MAP sensor I believe. I THINK this code got tripped because I had initially forgot to plug my MAP sensor on top of air filter back in after the fan clutch install.
Eventually today the check engine light disappeared after I plugged the MAP sensor back in.
Question: Is there any chance these two intake air/MAP sensor codes are causing my fan clutch to never disengage?
Second, I used a buddies OBDII scanner to try to erase the codes but they're still present upon doing the ign-ON x3 code check procedure.
Do these codes not clear until xxx amount of miles have been driven? Or should they have cleared so maybe I'm actually having a MAP sensor issue?
Truck runs fine other than fan clutch running 24x7

 

[Razorhunter]

Btw, with regards to
P0073
P0107

Am I right that this is just MAP sensor on top of air filter? I did unplug it a few times recently.

 

[AH64ID]

That’s the IAT sensor (MAP is in the intake manifold).

That sensor is one of the ones used for the fan, so who knows what will happen when unplugged.

Not all OBDII scanners can clear dodge codes, my SGII never would.

 

[NIsaacs]

If your Napa clutch is a Hayden, it is suspect. I went through 2 on my '01, both would not disengage. However, mine are thermal viscous, yours is Electronic-Viscous, so.....

Hayden is a huge company, you would think they would work, but mine didn't. Here is a link to what might be wrong with your oem unit.

https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/577/007_2911297_Dodge_Ram.pdf

Here is a link to some troubleshooting:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3584136&cc=1424641&jsn=1077&jsn=1077

 

[Razorhunter]

Ok guys well more reading this am and apparently all these sensors are 5v and if you break the 5v anywhere, it can throw multiole coded for any of the sensors in the system. I believe when replacing this fan clutch I had probably turned the key with the IAT sensor on top of the air filter unplugged. This may explain the 0073 and 0107 codes. My check engine light is back off now and truck is running fine, except for the fan clutch failing to disengage. I'll go buy a MOPAR as I should've done initially and see if that fixes my issues. I sure hope so I'm not going back to NAPA to swap for another Hayden/Murray or whatever it is.

 

[Razorhunter]

In the meantime, does anyone think its a bad idea to drive minimally for a couple days with fan clutch running all the time? I dont think it hurts anything other than gas mileage, no?
Or will you guys say it'll prematurely wear out fan clutch hub bearing? Prob only gotta drive one day to/from work.

 

[BigPapa]

The fan hub turns constantly whether the fan is engaged or not. I can’t see that it would hurt anything.

 

[AH64ID]

Shouldn’t hurt a thing.

 

[Razorhunter]

Thanks guys. Will update after I get MOPAR fan clutch installed.

 

[Razorhunter]

UPDATE
Ok guys, so after installing a new NAPA fan clutch (made by Hayden I THINK?) that ran 24/7 and would never disengage, I finally got around to installing MOPAR 52028879AF today and after a short drive around town, all seems well. Fan runs just for a minute at cold engine startup, then quickly shuts off, and it pretty much stays off, unless AC is on while I'm static/idling. While sitting at red light, I shut AC on, and taking off from a stop I briefly heard the fan roar up while shifting to 3rd gesr and then fan shuts off and you never hear it again. I can just feel the takeoff power again which I had previously lost.
I had mentioned before I threw codes P0107 and P0073 after forgetting to hook IAT sensor over air filter back up and cranking truck.
P0107 has vanished (days ago) but P0073 AMBIENT AIR TEMP SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH still remains (I believe this is the IAT sensor located on top of airbox I forgot to plug in?)
In regards to P0073. Is there any way that bad NAPA fan clutch could've been throwing that code and thats why it never cleared itself over the last two weeks?
Truck seems to be running fine. Not sure if this P0073 sensor could be slowly going bad or not?
Thanks for all the help with this guys.

 

[Razorhunter]

One more thing about this NAPA fan clutch thst sucked. It was marked "3281" which I've also seen on the Murray fan clutches. I have heard these are all made by Hayden.
Can anyone confirm this? I will definitely be calling Hayden (or Murrray or whomever made this cfan clutch) to bring this to their attention, along with all the other problems I've read about with them online. Unlikely, but you never know, you just might make a difference and if the right person finds out about them not working, who knows, maybe the problem could be fixed. I figure its worth a shot.
Is this junk NAPA fan clutch indeed manufactured by Hayden?