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Competition what would you do if you where rebuilding a motor?

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Competition exhaust temps wierd

Competition help choosing injectors etc.

I have to pull my motor out and rebuild it because one of the valves broke and smashed against the piston. So my ? is if you where going to rebuild yours what would you change or add while it is out. I do not tow anything and I use the truck as daily driver/race/pull truck.



TJ
 
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high performance coat as much as I could-tops of pistons, Teflon coating on piston skirts, valves, inside the head, port the head, um, I think thats about it
 
The big question is how much power do you really want?

Most people answer that question, with all I can get. The correct answer is how will you be realistically using this vehicle, and how much your drive line and wallet can stand.

If you wanting a true daily driver, and not a purpose built competition only truck, then the biggest bang for the buck is to build a basis foundation that you can work with later on in additional add-on’s, if you want a pure race motor, the same is also true.

First and foremost, the motor needs to be properly machined and Clearance. This is critical, and unlocks a great deal of power you already paying for in the combustion chamber, but not getting to the flywheel.

Next air flow, air flow, and if I did not mention it already, air flow. The potential for air flow gain, is incredible, in a Cummins, it is the single most important factor in making these motors make safe reliable power. The old school thought of boost will over come any obstacle, is so out of touch with reality, I have seem this on the engine dyno with air flow in the measured air flow thru the turbo chargers , a increase in boost , dose not always mean a corresponding increase of cfm of air in the motor .



In a 24 valve, I would spend a big portion of you budget, on the cylinder head, and a detachable intake manifold, this facilitates porting the head.



Next in importance’s is the pistons, start with a good ring package, and poly dyne coatings, cutting the pistons for extra piston to valve Clarence if you every want to go bigger then a drop in cam. . These piston and ring packages start with stock good old Cummins pistons, no need for the aftermarket pistons , till some where higher then 1100 or 1200 hp if done right.



Next the p-pump was great in its day, and necessary on big hp tractor pulling motors, where the extra fuel is needed, not to make power in the motor, but to fuel the turbo’s and create basically a diesel fueled turbine engine to drive the compressors. .



For any street machine realistically a VP 44 pump ,or Common Rail system are far better choices. The pumps that Brady at Industrial Injection is working with will support bigger numbers then most could ever live with and their new CR pumps will overshadow even the mighty p-pump when some of the new designs give the ability to rev these trucks up.



Finely every thing in balance, do not put the biggest and baddest trick of the week, component on you truck, unless you plan on matching the other parts as well. Build something you can live with, and have fun with

Greg Young ZZ fabrications, 940 337 4275

Ray Little RayMac 817 477 0682

Brady Industrial injections 801 972 0476
 
I build and engineer racing programs. The fuel system is best left to fuel guys like Brady, and turbo’s to turbo guys like Shane , I feel confident in their knowledge and ability to make a VP44 work. Sure it is not the pump of choice for all out drag racers, or pullers, but if you try and build those types of engines, only using a few of the parts, you will get poor results. Look at Doug “JET PILOT” he has make incredible power on a VP pump. I just think it's a better route on a 24 valve then a conversion. If they started with a 12 valve, I would suggest staying with a p-pump.



Bucks up money is no object a common rail will be hard to beat on the street, for all-around performance, and power
 
One thing you might want to do is 60lb valve springs. That way if you want to put on an exhaust brake the heavy springs will already be done.
 
McLaughlin said:
One thing you might want to do is 60lb valve springs. That way if you want to put on an exhaust brake the heavy springs will already be done.



They come standard on 24V's ;) Granted they are MUCH MUCH easier to do with the head off. That's when I did mine..... unfortunately I was also doing O-rings at the same time. :{
 
BigBadDodge said:
TJ, when did this happen? sorry to hear about it? I thought she was runining great at the Norcal Diesel Rally.



BBD



I left the truck at J&H to get the transmission serviced and I picked it up last weekend and was driving home when it happen.
 
Comp



I have a company truck that I drive everyday but my truck is my only ride after work. I do like to tractor pull and race so I just figured while the motors is out I might as well make the most of it. You talked about H. P goal and I really do not have one the last time I dyno'ed it did 671hp. I do not want to p-pump it right now as I just put the hot rod pump on 2 months ago.



Keep the info coming guys.



TJ
 
My fiends 01 just lost a valve too. #5 exhaust valve just broke apart and got munched. We are going to pull the motor and have it rebuilt. I was thinking about Enterprise engine. He is not sure about how far to take the rebuild. I losing a valve that common? Truck is an 01 with p-pump making 700 on diesel.



Kevin.
 
MD500E said:
My fiends 01 just lost a valve too. #5 exhaust valve just broke apart and got munched. We are going to pull the motor and have it rebuilt. I was thinking about Enterprise engine. He is not sure about how far to take the rebuild. I losing a valve that common? Truck is an 01 with p-pump making 700 on diesel.



Kevin.



It most be the big boost #'s or egt's. I wish I had bit the bullet on those high dollar valve spring it might I have saved my motor. I talked to several engine builders and no one knows why it did it.
 
I am guessing a combo of higher rpm, 70psi boost, and egt through the roof had something to do with it. Some of the other exhaust valves look as to be slightly deformed. The bottom of some of the valves appear to be more concave while others look to be strait across. They look as though you tried to rip them out by pulling up on the valve stem. :eek:
 
Good reason to do valve adjustments often. If the valves are getting tight, then the valve is probably stretching...



Paul
 
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