Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Whats the real skinny on Labor for Clutch Hydraulic replacement?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) How many miles on injectors?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Thanks TDR

Status
Not open for further replies.
I looked up some old threads and it seems the consensus was it would take about an hour and was like 4 bolts and a screw to replace the master and slave cylinders for the clutch. I called a shop to come out and do it because I figured they could do it quick since I've been busy at work and I wouldn't have to go) buy some tools (used to have tools. . dont ask).

Well the shop said they would be out early the next morning. . didnt show up, called next day... they would be out soon... . didnt show up, said they would be out in the morning and after I said I had the parts already ($160 from NAPA) they said it would be $375. I asked what they charged for labor because I was told it was an hour job... they are charging 5 hours. . says it takes an hour just to bleed it. I told them I wasnt impressed with their performance thus far and politely told them to pack sand.

I was thinking $200 at most because they were coming out to my house and I thought it would get done quick and save me hassle but $375??
 
Are talking about the hydraulic assembly, connected from the clutch pedal to the bell housing? It took me about an hour to replace. The most difficult part for me disconnecting the wire connected to the pedal, besides that everything was pretty quick. I bought mine from Southbend Clutch, no bleeding required, just a simple swap, and adjustable pedal height to boot. Let us know how you fixed it.
Ilian
 
Installing a complete pre filled clutch hydraulic is a pretty straight forward task. Sometimes you can rotate the M/C off of it's bracket and pull the M/C out intact after you clear the pusharm and start switch. BTW, I like to install the push rod AFTER installing the M/C, makes a smaller package to route and insert.



Installing separate M/C and S/C can be done in the vehicle, but it is simple to R&R as an assembly and do the work as bench bleeding, IMHO, much easier than in chassis.



I do not own a shop, but it is my opinion based on my experience, shops do not like it when you bring your own parts and ask them to install them. We don't take our eggs and bacon to a resturant cook and ask him to cook them. Yes, they do mark up the parts, but then they are responsible for the labor and success of the job. I had 6 new tires and ball joints installed on my 1997, I specified a certain brand of ball joints the tire shop knew that I had a relationship with that supplier and suggested that I could save some money bringing them the parts, I said NO and asked then to buy them, I didn't want even a chance of finger pointing on the job.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top