Archived wheel bearing replacement/cost

[Rhondasway]

My '98 4x4 just started making that "clicking" sound (while in 2WD). I couldn't make it happen at Les Schwab (of course ), but the mechanic jacked it up and there's definitely play there. I read the old 911 threads, and saw two different answers: lubing it with heavy duty spline grease or the very expensive replacement of the whole assembly.

If I need to replace it, is there a better price than the $500 Dodge wants? I saw (in the thread) that Napa had it for more like $200; is this the right part?

I race this truck every weekend (in 4WD), so need to be sure of my repair the first time. Thanks.

 

[jjohannessen]

I have the same thing going on with mine now! Gonna have ole Les pull it apart and see what he can do. Sure hope the find something easy to fix and cheap also

 

[Scrappy]

wheel bearings

Brace yourself, those wheel bearings are expensive! I think that they run about $350 a side. :--)

 

[777 MECHANIC]

I replaced my right side bearing hub assembly. $240. 00 at NAPA vs. almost $400. 00 at the dealer.

MikeD

 

[Rhondasway]

wasting time

Here's what I ran into yesterday: Got the wheel bearing hub ass'y at a good price from Dodge (through a mechanic). Took the old one off and down to a local shop to get it pressed in. Low and behold, the new hub ass'y DID NOT have the fitting for my ABS (thanks again Dodge)...

Put the old one back in (with lots of grease on the splines). I have not been able to get it to make that bad sound, and it isn't pulsing any more on braking. Even though it feels better, I know it's going to have to be replaced anyway as there is quite a bit of play.

So I checked around for an aftermarket setup. According to my research, this is a "dealer-only" part. Other years and axel weight bearing assy's are available, but not for my truck...

So, looks like the dealer will be getting my business. Wonder if I'm safe to race this weekend, and put off the replacement 'til next week?

 

[Extreme1]

As for the lack of play after the reassembly.

When you torque down the nut holding the axle to the bearing inner race, that may be what removed the play.

 

[Bigramguy]

DC has different part numbers for the bearing assy depending on if it has ABS or not. You will need your VIN # when you call,so they can look up your exact application.



I have not been able to find them aftermarket with ABS.



You may want to call a Canadian Dealer,as your not too far from the border. Last one I replaced was only 238. 00 CDN from DC. That is a complete hub and bearing WITHOUT the wheel studs. The complete unit,with the studs,was around 280. 00 CDN. With the exchange rate you should be able to get one for well under $200. 00 US.



If your stuck,and want to use the hub without ABS,your can possibly transfer the ABS tone ring from the old hub to the new one if the new hub has the machined area for it. You will have to be careful,but it can be done.