2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Wheel Bearings 2WD

[Big Bry]

I have a 2000 2500 2wd quad short bed. I am having problems understanding my front wheel hub bearings. I have ordered a service manual from Chrysler and it shows the old nut/cotter pin assembly. My truck on the other hand has a lock nut/washer that says do on reuse. I called a Dodge dealer and they talked about nut/cotter pin and had no idea about what kind of set up I have. The manual tells me that you have to torque the nuts down to 180ft lbs. Is this true? I am used to the chevy thing that you snug them down and then back them off a little. How often should the bearings be packed? Maintenance schedule says check them at 22,500 and repack if required. Do I have to buy a new nut each time? Can anyone give me a clue? So far I am clueless in California.



Thanks for your time all!



Big Bry

 

[mschoenheider]

Unfortunately I can't be of much help. My 96 has what you refer to as the Chevy style hub and bearings. Torque it to 20 ish foot pounds, back it off a quarter turn then hand tighten as tight as you can get it without a wrench. I repack them every 20k, and just had to replace them at 153K. Did they switch over to a unit bearing setup similar to the 4wd?

Mark

 

[GWHaley]

bearing repack

I'm not sure about the 180 ft/lb spec you have, but in my experience, it takes alot more than 20 ft/lb to seat the bearings after a repack. I normally torque the bearings down to at least 100 ft/lb while turning the rotor with the other hand. then back it all the way off and tighten to about 10-20 ft/lb (snug). If you have lock nuts instead of a cotter pin arrangement, then yes, you will need to replace the nut everytime (cheap insurance). You should'nt have to repack very often (50,000 to 75,000 mi), especially if you use a high quality synthetic grease (I use Amsoil racing grease and I'm sure there are others). The cost of these greases is pretty high, but again, cheap insurance.

 

[HGDMARTN]

Big Bry,

I bought the nuts and took one off only to find it is a sealed unit. Very surprised after the $100 manual showed it to be a serviceable unit like you said. I put it back on and used one of my nuts and saved the other for a rainy day. It has been a while, but I thought I remember the torque being 280 ft. Who knows, I might be thinking of something else.



Good luck.

David

 

[MAllred]

My 02 3500 needed new sealed bearings at 130,000 miles. The "sealed" bearing doesn't remain sealed forever. Right before they self-destruct they sling a noticeable mist of grease on the chrome simulators and begin producing a roaring noise soon thereafter. Oh yeah --- they're another item that is available only at the dealer at $245 apiece! There outta be a law...

 

[Big Bry]

I would like to thank you all for the replies. This is a nice way of figuring stuff out. I especially want to thank MAllred and HGDMARTN for your replies. This is exactly what I was looking for since I could not get much help from the Service Manual. I feel better about things but will keep an eye on the bearing since I am running about 82,000 miles on the truck now. This weekend I am replacing my lift pump for the 2nd time. I love the truck but it has it's little flaws. Thanks again for everyones response.



Big Bry

 

[WadePatton]

OH NO

My right front is singing. I think I remember the "no a reuse" nut from the brake pad job.



Anybody else been into a Y2K 4x2 front bearing assembly? Anything new or different that described here?



Yep, dead on 80k. I'll go pull it down now. Don't feel comfortable driving a bearing THAT noisey.