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Wheel cylinder question............

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Does anybody know if there is an updated, or heavy duty rear wheel cylinder for my truck?
I had a pretty hard panic stop last week, and found some fluid leakage at my left rear brake drum.
I'll be driving 1000 miles this weekend, so I'd like to get this done soon.
Any help/advice appreciated.
Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 265 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.
 
I believe you can use the wheel cylinder off a one ton truck. They are larger and I believe they are a direct bolt in.

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2000 Dodge Cummins Diesel
6 sp manual, every option except automatic and sports package!! SPA guages installed! Next, Marco and either 275's or someones stage II's!!!! SnugTop Shell, Grizzly nurf bars, spray-in-bedliner and Professional FireFighter License Plates. (To match my Flame Red Truck of course!!)
 
Hi Patriot, I used the rear wheel cylinders off a 1 ton on my '95 CTD. I really noticed the trucks improved braking.

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2001 RAM H. O. 6Sp 2500 SLT 4x4 Quad Cab, 4Wheel Disc, 4. 10 Limited Slip, Fog Lights, Muffler removed, Silence Ring Gone, Autometer Pro Comp 60# Boost & Pyro, Banks High Ram (Red), Cummins Red Valve Cover, K&N RE-0880, Skyjacker 2. 5 lift Class 2, 7218 Dual steering stabilizers, Custom Pro Fab Trackbar (sweet), EGR Flares (nice fit), Centerline Comet III 16x9. 5 with 305/70R16, Smittybuilt stainless nurf bars, ExTang BlackMax tonno, THIS IS NOT A HOBBY, THIS IS AN ADDICTION !!! MAINLINING DIESEL !!!
 
The 3500 rear wheel cylinders are a direct bolt in. I put them in my '96 and it helped a lot. I believe somewhere along the line Dodge started putting the 3500 cylinders in the 2500 trucks too. I'm not sure if that was 1998 or later but you may already have the bigger ones.
 
Sam Peterson does--do a search under brakes and put his name in the member box and you should find his email address and maybe more info--I've got his # somewhere in a pile of papers-if I can find it I'll post it--chris
 
Patriot---Ther are several cylinders you can use on your truck, but even the dodge 3500 cylinder is a little small in the bore. I upgrade all the rear cylinder to 1 1/16 on the 2500's. They will give you more rear pressure and better brake balance. If you want a lot more rear brake I can go even biggerrrrrrr. ----Sam
 
Is there anyway that we can tell if a truck has the bigger cylinder or not? I have a 2k Auto and I can say that my rear brakes SUCK! Being that I honestly know nothing about drum brakes I have no clue where to start. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Kev
 
The rear brakes will pretty much suck if you don't keep them adjusted, A few clicks on the star wheel at every oil change keeps mine grabbing well, you will feel a big difference if you have never done this.

Best of luck !
 
Ditto on the adjustments. The automatic adjusters never seem to work very good. If the rears are properly adjusted it often cures a pull that mimics a sticking front caliper. Makes the front pads last longer too.
 
Originally posted by TMc:
A few clicks on the star wheel at every oil change keeps mine grabbing well, you will feel a big difference if you have never done this!
<font color = blue> Can you expand on this a little please #ad
? I thought the (automatic) rear wheel brake adjusters self-adjusted correctly and within tolerance so long as you came to a dead stop in one direction before changing direction (or vice versa.
I have a copy of the factory service manual if you can quote page and paragraph numbers and I'll check my truck when it comes off the ship in Southampton later this month.

Cheers!



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JMc

2001 Flame Red Sport 3500 QC, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x4 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate leather, HX35/14cms turbo, DTT VB,TC & "smart" PAC Exhaust Brake , Mag-Hytec transmission & Diff covers, SPA Dual Gauges,DD2s,DD4" exhaust, Rickson 19. 5" wheels, Roadmaster XX,Firestone Airbags, WAAG sidetubes with dually kickouts, Line-X, Grovers , Lance 1130 slide-in Camper, 60 gallon “stock” Aerotank, RS9000s, Reese Titan class 5 hitch. plus the ICE-bomb
 
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Thanks for all the replys guys. I pulled the drum this morning, and it appears to be gear oil. Should have known, the brake fluid level was OK. #ad

I'm going to post a new question on replacing the axle seal myself.
Thanks again.
Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 265 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.
 
Patriot--When replacing the rear seal be sure to put silicone gasket maker in the hub surface and on the outer edge of the seal when installing it. Most seal leaks occur around the outer edge of the seal instead of at the lip of the seal.

K-Arts--The rear cylinders on your truck have a bore size of 1 inch from the factory. If you want a little more brake on the back you can use 1 1/16 or 1 1/8 to increase the rear pressure.
 
John McIntyre... . The rear brakes are self adjusting and in most cases the adjusters work OK. However, on a few, the adjusting mechanism doesn't turn easily and will cause the brakes not to adjust. If you are concerned, remove the rubber tab on the inside bottom of the brake mounting plate. It's straight down from the axle. You will need a small, thin screw driver and a brake adjusting tool or a large screw driver if you don't have the tool. Then take the adjuster or large screw drive and rotate the wheel down. Don't get carried away. You should have the wheel jacked up and be able to turn it while you are doing this. When you feel the shoe beginning to touch the drum, stop turning. If you go too far, you will need the small screw driver to release the latching mechanism so that you can back off on the brakes a little. I believe the mechanism is on the bottom edge of the star wheel. Just catch the screw driver on it and push toward the outside of the vehicle. You'll feel it release and the wheel will turn freely in both directions at that point. Up on the star wheel loosens. Down tightens. Next time you need something to do, pull your drums and lube the adjuster threads.

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2001 HO 6 spd 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, SPA EGT/Boost Gauges, Fog Lights, Real Backup Lights, Molded Running Boards
 
Kevin, pull a wheel and drum. There are spring nuts on some of the lugbolts - pry them off with a screwdriver and toss them. If the drum is stuck - use a board for a cushion and beat the back edge of the drum(drive the drum off the hub)with a BFH. I removed the return springs and the handbrake spredder bar to get better access to the cylinders. You can pull the push pins out of the dust covers. The pistons might push out a little but won't come all the way out unless you hit the brake peddle - the dust cover will hold the pistons in. Measure the dia. of the outer rubber dust cover on the cylinder with a small straight edge. If it is 1 1/8", you have the small cylinders! The actual bore is smaller than the dust cover. I measured my small cylinders before I tossed them but forgot to measure the 1 3/16" cylinders before I installed them. If you want to drive to Arvada sometime - I'll check them for you! Craig
 
A new trick I learned here that works very well for removing a stuck brake drum rather than beating on them is to jack up the rear, remove wheels, run the truck forward and reverse applying the brakes. The drums will then come right off.
 
Originally posted by The patriot

Does anybody know if there is an updated, or heavy duty rear wheel cylinder for my truck?

I had a pretty hard panic stop last week, and found some fluid leakage at my left rear brake drum.

I'll be driving 1000 miles this weekend, so I'd like to get this done soon.

Any help/advice appreciated.

Eric



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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 265 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.

NRA life member. High power/IDPA.
:)
 
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