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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Wheel hub assembly

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FASS vs RASP

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Beach Bomb

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It looks like it is my turn to replace the hub bearings. I was hoping to get some feedback on what bearings are lasting the longest. Also, how much is this going to set me back?
 
I had to replace one side at about 230,000 miles. Paid about $249 from a dealer. No problems since and about 60,000miles on the new one and 290,000 on the rest.
 
Those are tapered roller bearings and in most cases last for millions of miles unless you are getting dirt or water in them.



Be sure and look at all the possible ways that can happen and make sure it gets fixed while you have the system open.



my 02
 
cojhl2 said:
Those are tapered roller bearings and in most cases last for millions of miles unless you are getting dirt or water in them.



Be sure and look at all the possible ways that can happen and make sure it gets fixed while you have the system open.



my 02



I think that advice is definately worth more than $. 02! :)
 
Wow, fun job. I had to replace one of my axle ujoints over the weekend. The dang thing was dry and poppin around every turn. It had a zerk fitting on it, but nobody bothered to grease it.



The hub was a holy terror to get off. I used a combination of hammering, air chiseling, and socket/extensions pushing against the frame to get it loose. Do yourself a favor and put lots of anti-sieze on the new ones when you put them in :)
 
A quick search at napaonline.com found a hub assembly for $253. Can't speak for the hub specifically, but I have always had good luck with NAPA replacement parts.



NAPA Page



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i've done both hubs on my truck in the last couple k miles, it's got 308k on it but i am not sure if they have ever been replaced , it's a 2wd but it's a solid front axle and i think they are the same as the 4wd hubs, i got mine at the shop rate from the local dealer distributor for $217 each, if they are the same as the hubs i got they come on the same vintage/type chevy truck too, if your brake rotors are questionable get them as the hubs need to come off and the studs pressed out to replace the rotors
 
Thanks for the info but I still would like to know if you guys think that the Napa or dealer replacement hub would be better. Thanks.
 
they probably come from the same manufacture just in a different box





Ronan52 said:
Thanks for the info but I still would like to know if you guys think that the Napa or dealer replacement hub would be better. Thanks.
 
Ronan52 said:
Thanks for the info but I still would like to know if you guys think that the Napa or dealer replacement hub would be better. Thanks.



At 78,000 I had a left one start clicking. I replaced it with a Napa part along with the u-joints on both sides. At 108,000 the left one started clicking again. Napa has a lifetime on these. No questions asked they gave me another one.



I would still like to know why the left side is on its 3rd one including the original? Right side is fine at 108,000.



The dealer part is not lifetime. I am happy with Napa.



Ron
 
We buy a lot of parts from NAPA and consider them as good or better than any other source.



Thsi is for Dodge, Ford and Class 8 when possible.
 
Ohmygosh!!! You can tell Im not up to the new stuff. It looks like I was wrong on another post.



I always thought front wheel bearings were tapered roller. Those pictures look like they are ball bearings. Is that right?



I thought Ball bearings in front hubs went out with GM's 50's cars.



Please lemmie know!!!
 
Thank you Kevin for the answer. I guess I gotta get with it and see how the new ones are built.



Thanks again for you response.



John
 
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