wheel-offs

[MDunscomb]

I don't know if anyone else has had these problems, I can' find much with the search tool but... I've had two wheel offs in the last 18 months on my '99. The first was a couple of weeks after a tire rotation, my right front came off while traveling down I-70 in Kansas City. Then just yesterday I started getting a severe vibration, that reminded me of the first time my wheel came off, sure enough there was one lug nut holding everything on. It was the RF again. After the first time I had all new lugs, and bought one new wheel to replace the one that came off. The wheels are an aftermarket alloy wheel. This time it's been a good six weeks or so since a local company was in there to do some brake work. Has anyone here had similar difficulties? I'm going to go ahead and replace all of the studs (only three didn't get sheared off), and swtich to a regular steel wheel. Should it seem odd that it was the right front again? What about the spacer that is on the right front of these trucks? After the first incident I have been anal retentive about checking the torque on the nuts, but I hadn't checked it since about a week after it was in the shop. If anyone has any advice other than check the nuts once a week, it would be appreciated.

 

[Fishin Guide]

Are you using any kind of antiseize on the threads? Oil?



I have seen that happen more than once in trucks due to the two things above. Also, I have seen worn studs cause the same problem. I would swap the studs and change the nuts as a starter.



Also, is it possible that you have a vibration in th front end due to a bent rim, out of round tire, bad ball joint or axle u-joint? Any vibration can contribute to thiss, especially, very rapid, barely noticeble ones.



Dave

 

[Matt400]

About that torque. . 135 lbs on a SRW and 145 lbs on a DRW.

Aftermarket wheels sometimes need a re torque if they have just been removed but just once should do the trick.



If you are using the above torque and they are still coming loose, suspect studs that are stretching. Does your tire shop torque the nuts and do they use the above spec?

 

[Fishin Guide]

That's my first thought Matt.



Studs. Also this can happen from overtorquing and galling the threads.



Dave

 

[TexasDodgeRam]

One thing that runs across my mind is someone is loosening it to mess with you or hurt you. You never know what other people will do.

 

[MDunscomb]

I've considered all of these options. I worked as a tire technician at Discount Tire for two years, so I'd like to think I know a thing or two about such things. I'd bet money the first time was from overtorquing, but the last time is anybody's guess. As far as being intentional, I'd like to think I have never ****** somebody off so bad... however I did catch someone trying to steal my right front wheel once... they got three nuts off when I came out of the building. Well I'm glad to hear that no one else has had these troubles, I will just hope my new wheels will fix things! Thanks guys.

 

[Fishin Guide]

Also, depending on the wheel, there can be issues. I talking about aluminum here, but many use a steel insert in the seat area. When these wheels are overtorqued, quite often the aluminum is deformed allowing the seat to drift.



This will do the same thing you describe.



Whenever I go to a tire shop, I carry in my wheels. If I cannot do that, I ask them to put them on by hand, leave the air in the hose and I torque them in thier parking lot.



Torque sticks and air make a job quick, but does not make it right. And yes, there can be that much variation in the setups in the shop. No need to go into too much depth here, but I have seent he same rated sticks have 40ft lbs variation.



Besides, if they can't get close to the proper air pressure for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck correct, do you really want them getting after your lugnuts? I don't.



Dave