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wheel wiggle

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I had the wheels on my TT packed and the bearings (inner and outer) replaced maybe a month ago. I havent used the trailer since then.

I was changing a tire this afternoon when I noticed the right rear wheel, when jacked up, has a little wiggle to it. I thought they were supposed to be tight. Especially right have having the bearings replaced.



So, my question is, should there be just a little wiggle on the wheel ? I think Im going to take it back to the rv place just to have then take a look.
 
Thanks,
I dont think Ive ever had a flat on my trailer. And its been at least decades since I had a flat on my car. I just didnt think I remembered any wiggle when the car tires went flat.
 
Tractorat,

That doesn't sound quite normal.

There's usually a very specific bearing adjustment procedure from the axle manufacturer, and while they could end up being SLIGHTLY loose, you shouldn't be able to detect wobble in the tire / wheel assembly. It sounds like the RV maintenance facility could have done something wrong.

Here's an example of the procedure from Dexter axle:

Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement

If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required, the following adjustment procedure must be followed:

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force. )

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.

4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.

5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut.

6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin.
 
Tapered roller bearings need some torque on them to keep them running correctly in the race... excessive torque means as the bearing heats up and grows it will become too tight...

I think I agree with JLandry but can't quite read between the lines... . I was taught the following for front wheel bearings and trailer bearings that use taper roller bearings... . it has served me well for over 40 years... .

Tighten the bearing after packing and installation with a wrench to pull them tight and expel excessive grease from the bearings... or maybe a better way to explain it is to take out the play... .

Loosen the wrench 3/8 to a 1/2 turn and make sure the wheel spins with no resistance... tighten up the bearing to remove all play and align the cotter key... . and install... When I'm done you can't grab the top and bottom of the tire and rock or feel play in the bearings...

I also carry a point and shoot temperature gauge... when I stop at a rest stop I check the temperature of all the tires and bearing assembly... . I've never found the hubs over 125-130* F on a hot day and in a normal day more around 110* F or so... remember that normal drop point for chassis and bearing grease is now around 275*F which means that it will flow out of the bearing and you'll loose the protection of the grease... .

I try and use a synthetic grease with a drop point of over 400*F when I do bearings... a good full synthetic has better film strength and of course the higher drop point...

I expect a good packed set of wheel bearings, weather on a car or trailer to run 35 to 50K miles... I personally usually get to them in the 30-35K mile range for inspection and lubrication. .

Just my thoughts... hope it gives you a different insight...
 
Any manual I have ever read says tighten to proper torque then loosen to the next available cotter pin slot. Not tighten to the next slot. A little looser better than too tight. 002-006 play in bearing is acceptable and will show as a little play with the wheel and tire mounted.
 
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On my 85 CJ7 front bearings are packed and spindle nut slowly tightened while spinning hub. I snug it up tight then back nut off till hub will spin w/o drag. There is no wobble.
 
On my 85 CJ7 front bearings are packed and spindle nut slowly tightened while spinning hub. I snug it up tight then back nut off till hub will spin w/o drag. There is no wobble.
I dont know if it makes a difference, but this is on a 1988 travel trailer.
 
You have to understand that the real beauty of tapered roller bearings is the with a load they naturally self center. SO towing down the road in a straight line that little wobble does not make any difference, AND the heating of the bearing will make it expand and take up some of that loose feeling.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I think its probably OK. But Im going to have the mech take a look just to ease my mind. The place I had replace the bearings is pretty good, and the mechs have all worked there for a long time.
The reason I took the trailer in the first place was because one of the wheels was pretty loose, and its no where near that now.
 
For me it depends on the bearing size, every time ive done bearings on 6k axles or higher there was no play but on my box trailer, 5lug hubs they ran much warmer then I like, backed off the nut so there was just barely noticable play and they run nice and cool now.
 
Well, Im glad I took it back to have the wheels looked at. The slight wiggle was fine. But what we noticed was that the link plates and spring bushings were shot, and the bolts were in really bad shape. So, I had that taken care of and now everything is like new.
 
Note that different greases may be incompatible. If you don't know what base stock etc. went into your grease, it may not be OK to just add some you have nearby. Also, the psindle and inside of the inner race need grease as the race turns slowly on the spindle by design.
 
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