Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) When do you give up on your truck?

[azcummins]

Thought I'd pose this ? to get a response from the TDR membership...



Was cruising around today when my truck cut out suddenly, and the check engine light came on. Truck came back to idle like I had shifted to Neutral. When I put it back in gear, it ran fine. Autozone couldn't pull a code out of it and after they hooked into it, the check engine light turned off and hasn't come back on.



Some of you might recall that just 2 weeks ago I got a new VP44, only to have the truck die on me one day for no reason. A new crankshaft position sensor seems to have fixed the problem till the event today.



After owning this truck for 4 years, these are the issues I've had with it:

1. ) Rear end went out @20k miles

2. ) Seat back release broke @ 40k miles

3. ) Lift pump dies @ 52k miles

4. ) Tcase seal @ 65k miles (replaced twice)

5. ) VP44 @ 76k miles

6. ) Crankshaft position sensor @ 76k miles



I figure I have a good truck, but I think I'm just victim to a generation #1 truck that still had lots of bugs in it. The sad part is I'm getting to the point where I don't trust the truck anymore and I'm afraid to take it very far. I'm wondering if it should be traded in for something new that has had 4 years to get debugged or if I should just stick with what I got and continue fixing things that come up.



When do you guys call it quits and go look for a new ride?

 

[Mopar-muscle]

still has something that resembles a wwarnty ?? NOW ...



but i would find a used 2000 or 2001 maybe even a closeout '02 , if you don't mind deletes and void stickers ...



if you are thinking 2003 , i'd wait till 2007 , they'll have some of the bugs worked out by then ... hopefully ...

 

[A Johnson]

AZ, this is exactly why I haven't bought a truck yet. I'm surprised peeling paint isn't on your list. I don't mind the 24 valve engine although I can't blame you for being upset about the problems that you have had.



If the check engine light was on there should be a fault stored. If the check engine light is off it should still be stored as an inactive fault. I would suggest getting some one else to look at your codes as I don't know what Auto Zone uses for software.



Sounds to me like possibly a throttle pedal. AJJ

 

[RichR]

SOS

Pretty much the same story for me.

2 head light switches

seat recliner broke

lost the transfer case

Tailgate hardwear broken

Oil pressure switch

2 going on 3 fuel tank level senders.

Front end goes which ever way when braking.

With only 55,000 miles and mostly used as a Big car. After the 3 previous Dodges being troublesome,I have 2 Toyotas in the garage. The Tundra fits my needs,its not a heavy hauler.

RichR

 

[illflem]

I get rid of or delegate to farm use any vehicle I can't trust. It's stressful enough dealing with the other morons on the road without having to worry about when your own rig is going to break down. It's your decision when enough is enough.

 

[stseeber]

I think AJJohnson is right, it sounds acellerator position sensor that is attached to your throttle control frame(called a "Lever" by D. C. ) They wont part it out and insist that it has to be sold together for around $400. 00 but I would ck with Cummins first as I replaced mine and then took the actual sensor off with ease from the "lever" and see no reason to be taking us to the cleaners like this. Dont know why no code? Mine did exactly as you described and always left same code pointing me to the sensor circuit. Replacement fixed mine... Hope this helps. P. S. My lift pump went out at 58k on my 99... . I am at 114k and carrying a new one under seat...

 

[Sky]

I think I would trade up to a 2000 or 2001. After 71k on my truck and at least 50k of that 71k is pulling. I only had to replace the lift pump at 62k which was under warrenty. I love my truck and have the most confidence in the world in it.

 

[OutbackDiesel]

I think the problem may be the APPS as well. My truck was doing exactly that, cutting out to idle. Then depressing the pedal a couple times cleared it up. I ran with it for about 20000 that way. Only because the new sensor is about four bills. My injection pump went out and I just replaced it last week. I have not had the problem since then so far. Now I wonder if that problem wasnt related to the injection pump. Maybe a pump timing error. In which case, I'll be even more ****** because that would mean I could have had the pump covered under warranty instead of being over 100k when I actually had to replace it. Anyway, I have had pretty good luck with my truck all things considered. I pull everyday for the most part. All of four years now and 103k. I pull about 7000 pounds. Right now it has all hit at once. Transfer pump, inj pump, cracked exhaust manifold and maybe still the APPS. But maybe now it'll be good for another 100k

 

[TowPro]

I see you have 103K miles, and had to pay for your injection pump? I would have raised holly hell at the dealers if my injection pump went out at like that.



But then my dealer has a record of me *****ing because they would not replace a defective lift pump at 87K "because warrantee only covered it for 80k" Maybe that will help. Actualy I hope I never have to replace my injection pump.

Originally posted by OutbackDiesel

I think the problem may be the APPS as well. My truck was doing exactly that, cutting out to idle. Then depressing the pedal a couple times cleared it up. I ran with it for about 20000 that way. Only because the new sensor is about four bills. My injection pump went out and I just replaced it last week. I have not had the problem since then so far. Now I wonder if that problem wasnt related to the injection pump. Maybe a pump timing error. In which case, I'll be even more ****** because that would mean I could have had the pump covered under warranty instead of being over 100k when I actually had to replace it. Anyway, I have had pretty good luck with my truck all things considered. I pull everyday for the most part. All of four years now and 103k. I pull about 7000 pounds. Right now it has all hit at once. Transfer pump, inj pump, cracked exhaust manifold and maybe still the APPS. But maybe now it'll be good for another 100k

 

[Mad Max]

Still own mine...

18K liftpump replaced

24K-ish liftpump replaced

33k clutch dies, hello southbend

33k liftpump replaced

40k rear axle seals fail ruining rear pads and $130 PBrake shoes.

40k Q/C popout window, passenger, coming unglued at hinge, dealership goodwilled repair.



Tires pretty worn @ 40K, likey need to put tires, bilstien's and a pair of Optima 800 batteries before year's end.



Having been bitten by the known issues of clutch and axle seals, I've been "tempted", but I am hanging in for now.



Knock on wood, it will take a Ram5500 TRUE CREW CAB with the HO and at least 6speeds to get me to switch, and Pre-Jan'04 at that.



MaX



Ps. Optional PacBrake and Ceramic clutch would me nice!

 

[Rob Thomas]

AZ,



I have had issues with my truck since 7,000 miles, most were minor, and were warrentied. The list is like this... . headlight switch, both window regulators, broken console, broken sunglass holder (on the 3rd) power door lock switches(both),all before 10,000 miles.



Then the head gasket (which I replaced myself), lift-pump, track-bar, drag-link, all before 50,000 miles. I now have 62,000 and nothin' wrong in the last 12,000+ miles. All my issues were "easy" fixes, unlike yours which always seem to be a pain in the arse.



I have full confidence in my truck, and am not complaining about the problems I've had, as long as DC continues to fix it at their expense. At this point, I think I have got all the bugs outta my truck, and wouldn't trade it for anything, I love it. Like illflem said, YOU need to determine when enough is enough, if your doubtful about your truck, and have lost the "Love" for it, it may be time to off-it tho.



Good luck, Rob

 

[MJawsman]

When do you give up on your truck? Personally I'll never give up on it unless it gets totaled. With the price of new vehicles escalating exponentially, and my pay check remaining rather flat from year to year, I'll need to keep my beast running a lot longer than I originally thought! My truck has been rather trouble free, but even if it turns into a lemon next week, repairs are still cheaper and many times can be made better than before it broke. Just my . 02

 

[Texas Diesel]

Originally posted by azcummins

Thought I'd pose this ? to get a response from the TDR membership...



When do you guys call it quits and go look for a new ride?

I feel for you man, I was in the same boat a few years ago. Bought a new Toyota V-6 4wd, it was such a POS the dealership traded me out for another one. Had the next POS for 6k miles with the dealer having it more than me. Dumped it for a Dakota which we still drive daily (185,000) and LOVE it.



I understand the lemon flavored blues... Get rid of it and start over, life is too short to have it ruined by a POS, dump it like I did my Toyotas!!!

 

[azcummins]

APPS eh? sounds a lot like the throttle position sensor that I kept asking the TDR about for the past couple of months and got no response. I'll look into that, but $400. . geez... thanks D/C! My truck still has 21k miles on warranty, but since this problem is so sporadic, I couldn't leave it at the dealer (stealer) and go, "Fix it... " I'd get the usual, "Dealer cannot replicate problem".



I figure I could sell my truck for $23-25 and find a 2002 closeout for around $30 if I get the right truck and work the deal right. I'd be going after a 2500, not a 3500 so that should help some. Then again, it is $7-5k that I could put into this truck. Decisions, decisions...



It's hard to walk out every am and look at a truck that you put money into and jump in the cab and wonder if it is going to start.

 

[Tom W]

A Z , I have a 98 also and I have learned that these trucks are very finicky about electrical connections. Corroded battery terminals can cause several weird problems. The map connector should be removed occasionally and dielectric grease applied. This might not help your problem but it's easy to try.



Tom

 

[Mundgyver]

Something you should look at here... This is from personal experience and was found after having my truck cut out and come back a couple of times.

Pull the covers off the steering column and check your power wires to the plug to the ignition switch. I had one shear on me about a month and a half ago. The whole truck would just cut out then come back. Root cause was the wire had sheared up inside of the back of the connector and was just vibrating around in an end to end state. Take 5 minutes to pull the covers and check this out. Look for the heavy red wire. Might save you some agrivation and grief. Once I found it I checked with the dealer and was told it would be about 2 weeks to get it fixed. Since I'm gifted with an aviation electronics background, I fixed it in about an hour. That's what I found when mine started acting funny. Good luck.

 

[BigMike]

I've got 50k on my truck and the only thing I've had to do is replace a fuse. I've never owned a more dependable vehicle in my life. About time I got lucky.

 

[HC]

I have a "three strikes you're out" policy. A strike is defined as anytime the truck prevents me from getting somewhere I really want to be, or fails to get me home. If I have to call a wrecker, that's probably going to count as a strike. Limping home with broken parts, and then having to get it fixed before another trip, would not be a strike, nor would things like electric window problems or leaking seals.

I've had gassers make it past 350k with zero strikes; my current truck isn't perfect, but has made it to 95k with zero strikes.



I guess I'm saying the same thing as illflem; you have to trust your ride. Your criteria may be different, but, if that basic "get me home" trust isn't there, then it is time.

 

[Deezul1]

Well mine only has 160,000 but I did have to replace a leaky axle seal and the AC doesnt stay cold at a stop sign but I think I will stick with it for a while longer.