When to do new auto transmission?

[LRutigliano]

I need some help from others that have gotten their 48RE rebuilt due to your power additions.



I have 16,500 miles on the truck. I use it only for towing the 11k 5er. Approx 10k of the miles on the truck are with the 5er or the previous 4k Eagle Cap camper and 4k boat.



I have no hints of problems with the transmission. Temps are low when towing. No convertor shudder that I can tell. Fluid never looks burnt or even discolored.



Smarty is OFF (not connected) and I've never towed with the Smarty. Its only been on Level 1 for a short time and not towing.



When should I consider rebuilding the transmission? Now or when I start to feel issues? Will I start to see issues or will it just go out?



I have $5k earmarked for the "bulletproof" new transmission, but don't want to spend it unless I have to. I'm leaning towards waiting for problems, but maybe that is a bad idea.



Any suggestions from you guys that have had yours done?



Thanks,

Louis

 

[JCasper]

Talk with Rip when the time comes.



If it's working well I don't think I would mess with it.

 

[bigdaddydieseldan]

Well usually when you hurt the transmission that's it when I blew mine up had no warning was stuck on the side of a interstate waiting for a tow truck #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!#@$%!#@$%!



I HAD NO WARNING WHAT SO EVER #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!

 

[fox]

Many trucks go 150,000 miles at the power level your at.

Drive it.

But, you will really like a tighter converter.

So, you may consider asking a good trans shop, like DTT, Diesel Transmission Technology - DTT Performance Diesel Transmission and Power Accessories, about a VB and converter.

 

[Reb.B]

A lot of guys with low miles will come into the shop for an upgrade. I think its the way to go. Input, T/C, VB, lever, new inner seal in front clutch pack and you are ready to go. This takes care of the worst problems, takes 6-7 hrs to do, cost effective, and it's your own trans. I can help you out, or Call Dave Goerend and see if he has any installers in your area. This is much cheaper, and to fix the problem before it gets worse

 

[cerberusiam]

The problem is you will LIKE towing with the Smarty so much you will never turn it off.



Then your on borrowed time. Do it now and do what Reb indicated for a good setup. You don't need a $5k billet trans to tow your 5'er or even play a little.



Save the $$$ for fuel, your gonna need it. :{

 

[Motorhead]

A lot of guys with low miles will come into the shop for an upgrade. I think its the way to go. Input, T/C, VB, lever, new inner seal in front clutch pack and you are ready to go. This takes care of the worst problems, takes 6-7 hrs to do, cost effective, and it's your own trans. I can help you out, or Call Dave Goerend and see if he has any installers in your area. This is much cheaper, and to fix the problem before it gets worse

I agree... I built the trans up on my old '01. 5 when it had 24,000 miles on it. I drove from Calif to western Canada to have DTT do it. Once I had it done, in went the injectors and the Edge EZ and I ALWAYS towed with BOTH. I got better mileage and the hills didn't seem so steep.
I also as Reb. B said wanted MY trans built and not someone elses blown up wreck built for my truck. There are hard parts in the trans that get reused and to subject them to heat, slipping ect. can't be good for them. Besides, Who wants to be stuck at the side of the road with a blown up trans that couldn't take the extra strain. DO IT NOW... Two to five years from now the costs could double. I paid $3200. for a COMPLETE DTT rebuild with billet input and all the goodies. But that was 6 years ago. I see prices are more now and with the way this crazy economy is going..... who knows how much a loaf of bread is going to cost!!!#@$%! Since $. 02 isn't worth much, with inflation, This is my $. 04 worth!

 

[RankRam]

A lot of guys with low miles will come into the shop for an upgrade. I think its the way to go. Input, T/C, VB, lever, new inner seal in front clutch pack and you are ready to go. This takes care of the worst problems, takes 6-7 hrs to do, cost effective, and it's your own trans. I can help you out, or Call Dave Goerend and see if he has any installers in your area. This is much cheaper, and to fix the problem before it gets worse

Yep,



As always Reb speaks the truth, A friend and I made the trip over to Reb's shop. Reb worked his magic on my friends low mileage 06 Mega Cab.



Hey Reb! Mel is very happy with the Goerend parts you installed. To be honest I'm getting sick of hearing about it!:-laf



I'm still saving the cash to get mine done.

 

[XXLTexan]

turn your smarty up and enjoy... save that money though for a built Gorend.

 

[TexasDieselBoy]

What king of cash are we talking about? I am in the market for the upgrade too.

 

[LRutigliano]

What king of cash are we talking about? I am in the market for the upgrade too.

For my quotes which include a new triple disk TC, billet input shaft, laminated (modified) flex plate, new clutches and steels and reworked or remanned VB, I've gotten figures from $4850 to $5220.



Just the TC and VB was quoted at $4k.



This includes a 1yr/12k warranty.



However, the trans will be able to take 600hp and any setting/torque management the Smarty can throw at it while towing up to a 15k 5er (so I'm told... )

 

[Reb.B]

For a Goerend T/C, VB, lever, strap and anchor, Input, whatever clutches and steals need to be changed in front clutch pack, inner seal changed, gaskets and seals up front, front band, BD solid billet flex plate, ATF+4, R&R, trans labor, you should expect to pay around $3,700. This is a fair price at most shops. This is going through the front half of the trans. This is can be done at 15-30K, but i would not advise this at 100K. The O/D should be looked at around 120K. On an 05 and above a shift enhancer should be installed as well if the customer is using low end fuelling.

 

[LRutigliano]

For a Goerend T/C, VB, lever, strap and anchor, Input, whatever clutches and steals need to be changed in front clutch pack, inner seal changed, gaskets and seals up front, front band, BD solid billet flex plate, ATF+4, R&R, trans labor, you should expect to pay around $3,700. This is a fair price at most shops. This is going through the front half of the trans. This is can be done at 15-30K, but i would not advise this at 100K. The O/D should be looked at around 120K. On an 05 and above a shift enhancer should be installed as well if the customer is using low end fuelling.

Reb, thanks for the info!



I've gotten 3 quotes in Portland, OR and one was $4800, $4850 and $5220 using Dunrite TC and VB and Raybestos clutches and steels. The flex plate is "reworked", not billet and I'm not sure what the brand is on the billet input shaft.



All 3 local shops "recommend" the Dunrite parts because Dunrite is in Vancouver, WA (across the river) from Portland.



When I questioned getting a completely "new" built trans from one of the big players with a lifetime warranty and they do the R&R labor, one of the shops was receptive but wasn't sure how to fix a problem if it came up later.



I'm still confused on what to do... especially with the prices you mentioned compared to what I'm getting around here.

 

[Reb.B]

Tony Dunright and Dave Goerend T/C's and Vb's are very similar in design. Info goes back and forth through those guys. I think Dave's parts are more refined and Dave has a better warranty. Tony is a very intelligent person and was one of the top engineers for Transgo back in the Day.