When to replace serpentine belt

[BC]

I'm coming up on 110K on my truck. The book says to replace the belt at 100K. Is this something that needs to be done ASAP, or do I wait until I see something wrong?

I tow my 5er on trips regularly. Don't want to get stuck somewhere because my Mother's first child was an idiot!

How hard is it to replace? I'd rather do it than go to a dealer.

Thanks for any info.

Bill Cook

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'98, 3500, 112,000 miles, 12 valve, 4x4, QCab, SLT, auto, 3. 54, tow pkg, Pro-Loc TC, TST #8 plate (230/605), BD exhaust brake-presure lock-torque lock, heavy duty valve springs, Mag-Hitech trannie and diff. covers, transmission and pyro gauges pillar mounted, K&N filter, 14k 36' fifth wheel, 12k Sooner 4horse gooseneck, 13K (when loaded), 24ft gooseneck flat bed.

 

[N8LHG]

BC,

Its a simple 5 min replacement, and that’s if you drink a beer while doing it.

I used a socket ratchet to move and hold the idler while wrapping the belt around.


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Mark Wardell
1996 Dodge 3500, 4x4, Duel, Green and silver, Shocked farm pin hitch, Goose Neck hitch.

 

[radixr]

I replaced my belt at 68,000 miles (5 years). It would have lasted longer but it did have surface cracks in the rubber. I kept it for an emergency spare. I agree with Mark; it's a relatively easy job. Just make sure the routing agrees with the sticker on the radiator support. I understand some trucks had the wrong sticker. My replacement was complicated by the Horton fan but was still not bad.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

 

[rhoads]

Buy a replacement belt &&&& a belt for the same spec(assuming) you have a/c FOR one with Out. carry in tool box and see which fail first. !!!!
My money is on the a/c compressor clutch...
BUT i must admit i"m not in the belt bussiness.
Now if you are jumping brush,all bets are off.

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by BC:
I'm coming up on 110K on my truck. The book says to replace the belt at 100K. Is this something that needs to be done ASAP, or do I wait until I see something wrong?

I tow my 5er on trips regularly. Don't want to get stuck somewhere because my Mother's first child was an idiot!

How hard is it to replace? I'd rather do it than go to a dealer.

Thanks for any info.

Bill Cook

If your truck has the plastic antifreeze fill box on the left, remove it befor you do the belt. This will give you more wrench room to pull back on the tension idler.

 

[Joe G.]

I replaced mine at about 100K and threw it in the boonie box. It looked ok, so if the new one quits I have a spare.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver