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Where best to invest $5k to improve truck performance?

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First, this is not a technical question, but if this is still the wrong forum for this general question, please feel free to move where appropriate. Long story short, new to the forum and looking for a bit of advice. I have a 2004.5 2500 dodge ram HO Cummins with a 48RE transmission. Bought the truck used. My first diesel and have had it for a little while now. Truck has approximately 295k miles on it now. No noticeable blow by. At least not enough to budge the loose oil fill cap, upside down or right side up over the hole. Truck has always just seemed quite sluggish when accelerating, especially when pulling a trailer. Scraped together an extra $5k and was wondering where best to invest it, towards maintenance on improving the truck’s performance. Do I put the money towards engine tuneup/overhaul or transmission rebuild/replacement? Not looking to hot rod it or anything of the sort. Just looking to make a decent solid tow vehicle that ain’t causing traffic backups. Grateful for any advice of where best to put the money. And I know it’s gonna be said, but a new truck ain’t in the cards. :(

Once I get a firm idea of which direction I am wanting to go, engine or transmission, I will ask my topic specific questions in their corresponding forums. Thanks.
 
Welcome!

Safety precedence is Steering, then Brakes
Reliability is Electrical, then Cooling, then Fuel.

Research is a folder full of notes.
Each topic has aspects to cover.
Attention to details is the separation of men from boys.

Download a copy of FSM (field service manual).

“Best Parts”, for example, isn’t press BUY NOW on eBay.
Counterfeit or inferior = genuine problem. This isn’t a forum with a huge following. But it features long-term, knowledgeable owners. Someone already blazed a path if you’ll find & follow, in main.

Verify book maintenance to TIME and Miles is to date.

1). Fluids & Filters. Belt & Hoses. Xtra fuel filtration.
2). All Sensors
3). Align & Steer slop (tires, shocks)
4). No drag w/brakes (temp test)
5). Shocks & Cab Cushions plus suspension bushings.
6). Motor/Trans Mounts. U-joints.
7). New battery cable system.
8). Starter contacts
9). Alternator spec
10). HVAC evacuate & pressure test
11). Fan clutch plus hub bearing plus tensioner
12). Cummins thermostat.
13). Pull Rad & CAC and clean/test.

Do a survey. An appraisal. Expect to treat whole system, not component-by-component.

Below is big truck daily. It’s important (IMO) to have something very close for a vehicle new to one that’s got some miles on it. Keep on executing as new wear pattern emerges (new owner).

IMG_6068.jpeg


IMO, all that “little stuff” is what gets a vehicle sold. Becomes overwhelming to many. Big stuff is easy, conceptually.

There are tests for big stuff (trans or injectors; find & execute tests). But getting stranded by an old pickup is usually the little stuff. (Not sexy. Not exciting). And it’s minor electrical degradation, often (hard to diagnose).

IMO, no codes, and if steering & brakes don’t need work, then it’s electrical system make/over (cables & sensors & grounds) that come right after fluids/filters/belt being “okay”.

Voltage/Amp problems cleared up are No. 1 (age) in that sense. New BATT pair after:

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/gen-3-dodge-diesel-truck-battery-cable-kits/

would be ideal start in my mind. IOW, my first subject to cover. If “electrical” (including R&R of worn-down, but still operating sensors) is up-to-date, all else is easier to deal with.

Don’t forget brake controller and trailer harness wiring.

For good or for bad, that $5k can get chewed up fairly fast by high potential reliability issues.

Service needs: Best code reader, some specialty tools, workplace safety (XHD Jack stands and wheel chocks kinda stuff), etc. A 4,800-lb front end needs respect.

If I need a tow, I prefer a rollback. But I have to emphasize that the pickup weighs 9,000-lbs. Same with some shops (vehicle lift capacity).

So it’s also a breakdown kit (flares, triangles, rain suit, coveralls, work light). All new external lamps. New, clear headlight assemblies. Etc.

Back into the operational needs prior to sweating major line item expenses.

I could see $3k for (5) tires, shocks, specialty & workplace safety tools plus Class A breakdown kit, maybe a couple of sensors, alone.

These trucks aren’t cheap to own/operate.

Need a numerical baseline. Get a CAT Scale reading (max fuel, driver-only plus gear that never leaves truck ONLY.) Adjust cold tire pressure to that spec (probably 50 FF and 50 RR). Use FUELLY or similar to track MPG.

RECORD Odo Miles and Engine Hours now.


The relation of:
— Average MPG
— Average MPH
are keys to understanding how it’s responding to use conditions, and changes may mandate investigation prior to warning lamps or codes.

Cummins & Dodge make prediction on how long that engine will go prior to $$$$ repair or replacement (350k, for half of all examples). I’d want electrical, “like new”, first, and would be looking at new injectors plus associated parts (past upgrading fuel filtration) as the major expense to be tackled past any safety-related.

$5k is a good start. $10k is likelier over the near term (first few years).

How long will you keep it, and how many miles will it accumulate? This is the beginning question set. “The Big Picture”. Make a good approximation and start the numerical baseline with true data (no guessing).

Good luck.

.
 
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Transmission.

Personally, I’d go with a Goerend valve body and torque converter, a good flex plate, maybe a billet input shaft, and a rebuild. You will notice the most gain and get a long lasting transmission.
 
OK, its "sluggish" especially when towing. Towing WHAT?

Is this a 2wd or a 4x4?

Are the injectors original? If so, they probably are not functioning properly.
Is the turbo original? At the very minimum, take the inlet hose off and do a real good feel check of in and out play and of radial play (bearings). You need to resolve performance issues if it has any.

I cannot give you any comparison, mine is a 6 speed. I do pull a travel trailer, that is the main purpose of the truck. Trailer is usually about 6500 lbs (gotta weigh it again, its been a while). It ain't a rocket, but it does get up and go.

If you have a lot of unknowns, reliability is an issue. new water pump, tensioner, and belt. Cummins water pumps are not the best, so you want to change it before it fails. Get a Litens tensioner, and a Gates Fleet Runner (green) belt.

I installed a Fluidampr, it made a difference in smoothness and sound level.

Transmission is another issue when towing, you have reasonable advise above on how to handle that.

I've spent a lot of money on mine, and still spending. I just did the brakes, a full Power Stop kit plus every flex hose. Flushing first, then changing parts, then pressure bleeding again.

Boots on upper ball joints were gone, replaced entire upper control arms, had it aligned, drove better after that.

Front lower arm upstops missing, crumbled away, Genos has them, cannot find them elsewhere.

Differential fluid, drain and fill with synthetic. Replace the cover with either an Mopar aluminum one, or a Banks cover, watch his videos as to why to stay away from the "flatbacks".

I replaced the power steering/brake hydroboost return hoses, and refilled with fresh fluid when done.

Are you towing alot, heavy? then you may want an exhaust brake.

You want all new hoses.

This can go on for pages................................

Charles
 
OK, its "sluggish" especially when towing. Towing WHAT?

X2. And what is the scale weight of the trailer?

Have you towed before? Every time I dropped my 5th wheel my 2003 felt like a rocket ship afterwards. Even my 2018 does when I drop the 5th wheel off. After all my 5th wheel travel trailer weighs slightly more than the pickup pulling it.

Sluggish and how slow vs. the actual speed limit? A good number of trailer tires are speed limited to 65 MPH. It takes a lot of power and fuel MPG hit to try and go faster esp. if the trailer is a big sail like a tall 5th wheel. Grades are also a bigger challenge.

At nearly 300K miles you likely have some tired parts. You may need to re-consider what you are towing and if the tow vehicle is the correct choice. Bluntly it takes a ton of parts over 200K miles on a vehicle as the truck is generally falling apart around the engine. I have done the "Truck Payment" at the auto parts store before. You may find general repairs eat this up esp. if the injectors are worn out.
 
At nearly 300K miles you likely have some tired parts. You may need to re-consider what you are towing and if the tow vehicle is the correct choice. Bluntly it takes a ton of parts over 200K miles on a vehicle as the truck is generally falling apart around the engine. I have done the "Truck Payment" at the auto parts store before. You may find general repairs eat this up esp. if the injectors are worn out.

Yep, I want absolute reliability and performance on the road traveling, and it costs a ton of money, trailer and truck, and mine only has 116K on it. I've done a lot of things twice. Orig shocks leaking, installed new KYB mono max as I'd had luck with them on other vehicles. NOPE, not enough shock for the RAM, ended up buying Rancho 9000's to get something sturdy enough to hold up to that heavy engine up front. I've done other stuff twice also, so go easy and do the absolute reliability stuff first.

Charles
 
Thank you to all for your input. You all have given me a lot to consider and great places to start. To answer a few questions that were asked, my truck is 4wd, my dump trailer is approximately 3k empty, and I have pulled bout 3.5 tons of stone in it so far with this truck. I am a wrench turner, so I have done some repairs/maintenance, since buying the truck. I have done 4 oil changes. One immediately after getting it home and the 3 others, at every 5k miles thereafter. The same for the diesel filter. Everything appears to be stock without any upgrades. To include the fuel pump that is on the back of the filter housing. I have drained and replaced fluids in both diffs. I have drained and replaced transmission filter, fluid, and upgraded the governor pressure solenoid block and switch with one from thoroughbred diesel. Also did a band tighten/adjustment on the transmission. I have also replaced upper and lower ball joints on both sides. Replaced all u-joints, drive shafts and front axles. Even replaced front axle on the long side as the ear of the u-joint was damaged. Replaced radiator due to spider cracks and the fan clutch. And most recently replaced both lines from master cylinder to hcu. Thanks again for the great and thorough responses. I will post my engine and transmission questions in their specific forums.
 
To include the fuel pumps that is on the back of the filter housing.

That had to have been replaced at one time. Nothing wrong with it as they fixed the problems of early failure in the replacement pumps. Many will recommend the in-tank pump conversion, but, IMO if it ain't broke don't fix it. It's cheap enough to obtain a spare lift pump and toss it in the glovebox.

You are wasting money on changing the oil that often as it's 1 year or 15K miles. Do a UOA and see how much time you have left on the oil at 5K miles. These engines are easy on the oil unlike some other dirty diesels that weren't.
 
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