Here I am

where do i install the FP gauge sender (pic of filter housing)

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Another new guy

how fast

on a 99,



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which letter?



edit:also, I've got the hollow bolt that installs somewhere on the intake manifold for the boost gauge, but i can't really find anything that looks like i should replace it with this. any helpful hints?



guess it's back to working on the jeep and the gauges will be finished up tomorrow.
 
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a little more information. i could just pull bolts out and try different things, but the sender doesn't look like it has enough threads to hold down the banjos on A and B. I'm in a mad dash to get lots of stuff done for a trip I wanted to leave for tomorrow. Rather then screw around with that I just jumped on some other projects I needed to get done. Hopefully I can get a hand here. It's a Westach gauge/sender. The gauge itself doesn't light up unfortunately, I thought it did. Oh well.



Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
C or D depending on whether you want it pre-filter or post-filter. You don't to mount them directly to the filter housing either - the vibrations from the engine will destroy the sender. Take a look at this post - https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6113 - and you'll see how mine are mounted. I'm running 2 senders so that I can monitor pre- and post-filter. I'm not sure which hole is pre filter and which is post filter.
 
apparently, this is where.



courtesy of Piers website



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hard to see, but look for the boostline next to the right of the valve cover between valve and turbo
 
there's a hose shop across the street from where i work, got some diesel safe hose, a coupel male npt fittings and a female/female fitting, just wired it up and my truck at 117k miles has perfect fuel pressure. couldn't feel happier/luckier :p



boost gauge was on but i tightened the fittings too much and squashed the ferrel so bad it cut the hose. . off to find a new ferrel.



once EVERYTHING is installed and cleaned up i'll take some pics and do a writeup so that the next 'me' can have something easy to go by... all four gauge installs on one page.
 
Did you ever find out which is which?

Steve St. Laurent said:
C or D depending on whether you want it pre-filter or post-filter. You don't to mount them directly to the filter housing either - the vibrations from the engine will destroy the sender. Take a look at this post - https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6113 - and you'll see how mine are mounted. I'm running 2 senders so that I can monitor pre- and post-filter. I'm not sure which hole is pre filter and which is post filter.

I have been reading for the last half hour, trying to find out which one of the plugs in this thread were pre or post filter. I was wondering if you ever found out which is pre, and which was post filter. If not, could you instruct me as to how to refine my search to find out which is which?

Thanks Steve
 
Sorry, I haven't. In my case I know which way the switch in the cab goes for which pressure but I only know that because of past experience where the one that had lower pressure was obviously the post filter side. I'm pretty sure that C would be post filter and D pre filter since the clean side of the filter is the inside but don't quote me on it :) .
 
Incoming fuel goes to the outside of the filter. Outgoing fuel goes via the center. With that in mind, use C. It's closer to the center. When you get back from you trip order a big line kit and get rid of the banjos.
 
D is the fuel in to the filter.

C is the fuel out of the filter.



DONT USE TEFLON TAPE !!!!

on the fuel fittings. The diesel will break it down.

Get the proper pipe thread compound to seal the thread.

Go to a plumbing store and ask for a sealing compound for the fuel fittings used on an oil burner heater.



I stuck a rag up into the intake elbow, past where I was drilling and tapping.

I drilled and tapped the intake. Screwed the barb in.

Used the same "grease on the drill and tap" method as in drilling the exhaust for the temp sensor.

Shop vac'd the inlet , and pulled the rag out.

I didn't want to bother messing with replacing the intake bolt.
 
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There is a teflon tape specifically for petroleum use. It normally is in a yellow tape roll and is labelled on the roll. Bought a roll on accident and finally got to use it when I installed my F/P guage. No leaks in 3k miles, jurys still out------------RJ
 
Riverside Joe said:
There is a teflon tape specifically for petroleum use. It normally is in a yellow tape roll and is labelled on the roll. Bought a roll on accident and finally got to use it when I installed my F/P guage. No leaks in 3k miles, jurys still out------------RJ



Very Interesting. Never saw that tape.

The instructions that came with my new oil burner, that I installed a couple of years before buying my CTD powered Dodge, specifically stated not to use Teflon tape, but the proper joint compound due to the break down issue and minor bits of the tape and clogging and such.

I'm no expert, went by what I read and what the pluming store told me at the time.
 
I'll get the manufactures stuff off it when I get home. I taped 1 thread up from the ends so there was no FOD risk. Heat on the burner may be why not to use the tape. It's holding up so far on my truck :cool: ------RJ
 
Riverside Joe said:
I'll get the manufactures stuff off it when I get home. I taped 1 thread up from the ends so there was no FOD risk. Heat on the burner may be why not to use the tape. It's holding up so far on my truck :cool: ------RJ



The fuel pump area doesn't get hot.

FOD and contaminants and break down was discussed.

But I don't know how long the Teflon tape you have has been out... . maybe it wasn't around in the 95 - 97 time frame? Getting on almost 10 years now. .

Geeez, time flys.
 
It's got a UL listed sealing material 2S98 and a mil spec-T-27730A and a bar code. "YELLOW GAS LINE" . Resists gasoline, petroleum oils, naptha, propane,kerosene. Stuffs super tape. --------RJ
 
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